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Old 01-04-2020, 01:15 AM #31
N45-TRD N45-TRD is offline
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Overgreasing driveshaft - pay attention!!!

Just decided to grease u-joints and propeller shafts as I clicked over my first 10,000 kilometers, easy enough.. drive up on the ramps crack open a Belgium beer and slide under with flashlight and grease gun. U-joints were easy, front shaft spins freely but he to slide the hyd jack under rear wheel to get the fitting to 5oclock position. Stop as the grease comes out u-joint but shafts seem to take quite a bit and still don't see anything Aka chevy 4wd splines??? Who needs to read instructions for a friggin grease job....me!!! Alas the seal on closer inspection was not rubber but steel with a rubber beneath I am guessing.
Hmmmm... jumped onto the forum to read about over servicing propeller shafts.

Great!!! time for a fresh beer and cigarette now, the 15 min task just got way more complicated, how to undo the mess I just created. The laws of hydraulic pressure would transfer a shocking load path on the first bump to transfer case and differential like having cement inside that shaft. Hence can't be ignored.
I thought about just removing the grease fittings, and driving over a few whoop di doos to push the grease out for space as needed inside shaft....then rethought that idea as I would have no idea How much came out or was left inside with the centrifugal force...another cigarette and go look up torque values on those bolts
Of the prop shaft flanges. this would be ok on a lift but on a sliding mech bed and ramps changes the game to many sit ups, crap dripping from winter road salt in your face and the joy of tools above your face so long story short, remove zert split flange sections and compress shaft until it bottoms out and catch all the grease before it lands on your face then slide it back in the exact same orientation it came off for balancing purposes. Put a film of all. That grease on the virgin steel cup flange and nut while its open. It's also important to block wheels on ground, put on hand brake and slide it into neutral before removing and retorqued bolts not to put strain on txfr case and transmission as good measure. Sixty five ft pounds is what I read but sure seem way more than that when trying to remove them initially, btw the bolts are splined so don't try to spin them only the nut turns, a hammer and flathead screwdriver is needed to split the flange then its all easy street after that ,,,,,hahah seeing my front shaft doesn't spin until I move the lever To H or L i just removed to zert and will some heavy braking to dive the nose down and pump out that excessively grease statically ,,,,,,smart men learn from their mistakes, wise men learn from the mistakes of others,,,but the last lingering question, with this knowledge Are you really going to let your local mechanic or even newbie at the dealer grease your shafts in fear of getting shafted ? The repair cost must be huge on either side of that shaft, food for thought. Not to be a buzz kill either but how much grease is in that chamber right now,,,,,its only four bolts and one zert in the front for peace of mind ? thanks for your time and patience with the long winded msg hope it helps or saves some grief
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Old 01-04-2020, 02:20 PM #32
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One guy pulled his ZERKS out thinking it would reduce some form of precieved pressure incease.
One guy, a reverse over a large curb did the trick.

There was a TSB for Lexus.
T4R got no such love.
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Greasing Driveshaft (4th Gen)-drivelineclunk-jpg  Greasing Driveshaft (4th Gen)-pg2-jpg  Greasing Driveshaft (4th Gen)-pg3-jpg  Greasing Driveshaft (4th Gen)-pg4-jpg 
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Last edited by BackOff; 01-04-2020 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 01-04-2020, 06:26 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N45-TRD View Post
Just decided to grease u-joints and propeller shafts as I clicked over my first 10,000 kilometers, easy enough.. drive up on the ramps crack open a Belgium beer and slide under with flashlight and grease gun. U-joints were easy, front shaft spins freely but he to slide the hyd jack under rear wheel to get the fitting to 5oclock position. Stop as the grease comes out u-joint but shafts seem to take quite a bit and still don't see anything Aka chevy 4wd splines??? Who needs to read instructions for a friggin grease job....me!!! Alas the seal on closer inspection was not rubber but steel with a rubber beneath I am guessing.
Hmmmm... jumped onto the forum to read about over servicing propeller shafts.

Great!!! time for a fresh beer and cigarette now, the 15 min task just got way more complicated, how to undo the mess I just created. The laws of hydraulic pressure would transfer a shocking load path on the first bump to transfer case and differential like having cement inside that shaft. Hence can't be ignored.
I thought about just removing the grease fittings, and driving over a few whoop di doos to push the grease out for space as needed inside shaft....then rethought that idea as I would have no idea How much came out or was left inside with the centrifugal force...another cigarette and go look up torque values on those bolts
Of the prop shaft flanges. this would be ok on a lift but on a sliding mech bed and ramps changes the game to many sit ups, crap dripping from winter road salt in your face and the joy of tools above your face so long story short, remove zert split flange sections and compress shaft until it bottoms out and catch all the grease before it lands on your face then slide it back in the exact same orientation it came off for balancing purposes. Put a film of all. That grease on the virgin steel cup flange and nut while its open. It's also important to block wheels on ground, put on hand brake and slide it into neutral before removing and retorqued bolts not to put strain on txfr case and transmission as good measure. Sixty five ft pounds is what I read but sure seem way more than that when trying to remove them initially, btw the bolts are splined so don't try to spin them only the nut turns, a hammer and flathead screwdriver is needed to split the flange then its all easy street after that ,,,,,hahah seeing my front shaft doesn't spin until I move the lever To H or L i just removed to zert and will some heavy braking to dive the nose down and pump out that excessively grease statically ,,,,,,smart men learn from their mistakes, wise men learn from the mistakes of others,,,but the last lingering question, with this knowledge Are you really going to let your local mechanic or even newbie at the dealer grease your shafts in fear of getting shafted ? The repair cost must be huge on either side of that shaft, food for thought. Not to be a buzz kill either but how much grease is in that chamber right now,,,,,its only four bolts and one zert in the front for peace of mind ? thanks for your time and patience with the long winded msg hope it helps or saves some grief
I think most people seemed to be more concerned about moly vs. no moly for that portion. I've read a lot here and on BITOG forums and just came to to conclusion a couple of pumps for the spines is plenty. Since most dealers or lube shops wont probably hit them at all anyway. I just put the rig in neutral and roll it until things line up. I'm planning on doing it each oil change just to keep it simple.
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Old 01-05-2020, 06:22 PM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daftjungle03 View Post
I think most people seemed to be more concerned about moly vs. no moly for that portion. I've read a lot here and on BITOG forums and just came to to conclusion a couple of pumps for the spines is plenty. Since most dealers or lube shops wont probably hit them at all anyway. I just put the rig in neutral and roll it until things line up. I'm planning on doing it each oil change just to keep it simple.
you mean to say you're planning to grease the slip joint on the driveshaft at every oil change? if so, keep in mind that the grease doesnt really go anywhere or evaporate away, so eventually after not too many oil changes you will have pumped in too much grease & have an overfill situation. the slip joint isnt like a ujoint where you can flush out the grease as much as you want.

doing about 4-6 pumps is all the slip joint should need for a long time until it starts to clunk again & if its not making any noise now then a few pumps of grease is all thats needed for preventative maint.
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Old 01-07-2020, 08:52 AM #35
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No grease fittings

Are all 4Runners supposed to have these grease fittings? I have a 2008 2WD and saw the grease fittings in the Chiltons Manual and picked up a grease gun, but when I went underneath it I couldn't find them. It's been a long time since I had a vehicle with grease fittings, but I don't see anything on the driveshaft.
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Old 01-07-2020, 01:20 PM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackDuggan View Post
Are all 4Runners supposed to have these grease fittings? I have a 2008 2WD and saw the grease fittings in the Chiltons Manual and picked up a grease gun, but when I went underneath it I couldn't find them. It's been a long time since I had a vehicle with grease fittings, but I don't see anything on the driveshaft.
you should have fittings on the ujoints but not sure of the 2wd have the slip joint like 4wd. all 2wd cars i have seen have a solid drive shaft & the slip yoke is at the front in the d/s going into the trans & not greased like a 4wd.
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Old 01-08-2020, 05:05 PM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackDuggan View Post
Are all 4Runners supposed to have these grease fittings? I have a 2008 2WD and saw the grease fittings in the Chiltons Manual and picked up a grease gun, but when I went underneath it I couldn't find them. It's been a long time since I had a vehicle with grease fittings, but I don't see anything on the driveshaft.
No zerks on the 2wd.
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Old 03-15-2020, 08:32 PM #38
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Bringing this back.. my buddy has a 3rd gen with 215k miles and said he uses "Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge" for both the spider and slip joints and has never had an issue.. My 4th gen has 178k miles and i've put on 60k miles and never greased them..

Thoughts on using this grease on all zerk fittings?
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Old 03-17-2020, 01:17 PM #39
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Originally Posted by SHagood View Post
Bringing this back.. my buddy has a 3rd gen with 215k miles and said he uses "Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge" for both the spider and slip joints and has never had an issue.. My 4th gen has 178k miles and i've put on 60k miles and never greased them..

Thoughts on using this grease on all zerk fittings?
Should be fine from what Iíve read, the moly content is pretty low so you should be good to go. I just did all of mine this past weekend with the Mobil Synthetic grease and it was also fine.
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Old 03-17-2020, 05:21 PM #40
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Should be fine from what Iíve read, the moly content is pretty low so you should be good to go. I just did all of mine this past weekend with the Mobil Synthetic grease and it was also fine.
Awesome, thanks for the reply.
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