01-04-2020, 01:15 AM
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#31
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Quebec
Posts: 2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Quebec
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Overgreasing driveshaft - pay attention!!!
Just decided to grease u-joints and propeller shafts as I clicked over my first 10,000 kilometers, easy enough.. drive up on the ramps crack open a Belgium beer and slide under with flashlight and grease gun. U-joints were easy, front shaft spins freely but he to slide the hyd jack under rear wheel to get the fitting to 5oclock position. Stop as the grease comes out u-joint but shafts seem to take quite a bit and still don't see anything Aka chevy 4wd splines??? Who needs to read instructions for a friggin grease job....me!!! Alas the seal on closer inspection was not rubber but steel with a rubber beneath I am guessing.
Hmmmm... jumped onto the forum to read about over servicing propeller shafts.
Great!!! time for a fresh beer and cigarette now, the 15 min task just got way more complicated, how to undo the mess I just created. The laws of hydraulic pressure would transfer a shocking load path on the first bump to transfer case and differential like having cement inside that shaft. Hence can't be ignored.
I thought about just removing the grease fittings, and driving over a few whoop di doos to push the grease out for space as needed inside shaft....then rethought that idea as I would have no idea How much came out or was left inside with the centrifugal force...another cigarette and go look up torque values on those bolts
Of the prop shaft flanges. this would be ok on a lift but on a sliding mech bed and ramps changes the game to many sit ups, crap dripping from winter road salt in your face and the joy of tools above your face so long story short, remove zert split flange sections and compress shaft until it bottoms out and catch all the grease before it lands on your face then slide it back in the exact same orientation it came off for balancing purposes. Put a film of all. That grease on the virgin steel cup flange and nut while its open. It's also important to block wheels on ground, put on hand brake and slide it into neutral before removing and retorqued bolts not to put strain on txfr case and transmission as good measure. Sixty five ft pounds is what I read but sure seem way more than that when trying to remove them initially, btw the bolts are splined so don't try to spin them only the nut turns, a hammer and flathead screwdriver is needed to split the flange then its all easy street after that ,,,,,hahah seeing my front shaft doesn't spin until I move the lever To H or L i just removed to zert and will some heavy braking to dive the nose down and pump out that excessively grease statically ,,,,,,smart men learn from their mistakes, wise men learn from the mistakes of others,,,but the last lingering question, with this knowledge Are you really going to let your local mechanic or even newbie at the dealer grease your shafts in fear of getting shafted ? The repair cost must be huge on either side of that shaft, food for thought. Not to be a buzz kill either but how much grease is in that chamber right now,,,,,its only four bolts and one zert in the front for peace of mind ? thanks for your time and patience with the long winded msg hope it helps or saves some grief
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01-04-2020, 02:20 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Earth, Central Oregun
Age: 53
Posts: 1,196
Real Name: Derek
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Earth, Central Oregun
Age: 53
Posts: 1,196
Real Name: Derek
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One guy pulled his ZERKS out thinking it would reduce some form of precieved pressure incease.
One guy, a reverse over a large curb did the trick.
There was a TSB for Lexus.
T4R got no such love.
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2004 T4R 4x4 SR5 v6
Some modifications.
Black-N-Blue
Last edited by BackOff; 01-04-2020 at 02:45 PM.
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01-04-2020, 06:26 PM
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#33
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Arlington
Posts: 94
Real Name: Michael
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Arlington
Posts: 94
Real Name: Michael
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N45-TRD
Just decided to grease u-joints and propeller shafts as I clicked over my first 10,000 kilometers, easy enough.. drive up on the ramps crack open a Belgium beer and slide under with flashlight and grease gun. U-joints were easy, front shaft spins freely but he to slide the hyd jack under rear wheel to get the fitting to 5oclock position. Stop as the grease comes out u-joint but shafts seem to take quite a bit and still don't see anything Aka chevy 4wd splines??? Who needs to read instructions for a friggin grease job....me!!! Alas the seal on closer inspection was not rubber but steel with a rubber beneath I am guessing.
Hmmmm... jumped onto the forum to read about over servicing propeller shafts.
Great!!! time for a fresh beer and cigarette now, the 15 min task just got way more complicated, how to undo the mess I just created. The laws of hydraulic pressure would transfer a shocking load path on the first bump to transfer case and differential like having cement inside that shaft. Hence can't be ignored.
I thought about just removing the grease fittings, and driving over a few whoop di doos to push the grease out for space as needed inside shaft....then rethought that idea as I would have no idea How much came out or was left inside with the centrifugal force...another cigarette and go look up torque values on those bolts
Of the prop shaft flanges. this would be ok on a lift but on a sliding mech bed and ramps changes the game to many sit ups, crap dripping from winter road salt in your face and the joy of tools above your face so long story short, remove zert split flange sections and compress shaft until it bottoms out and catch all the grease before it lands on your face then slide it back in the exact same orientation it came off for balancing purposes. Put a film of all. That grease on the virgin steel cup flange and nut while its open. It's also important to block wheels on ground, put on hand brake and slide it into neutral before removing and retorqued bolts not to put strain on txfr case and transmission as good measure. Sixty five ft pounds is what I read but sure seem way more than that when trying to remove them initially, btw the bolts are splined so don't try to spin them only the nut turns, a hammer and flathead screwdriver is needed to split the flange then its all easy street after that ,,,,,hahah seeing my front shaft doesn't spin until I move the lever To H or L i just removed to zert and will some heavy braking to dive the nose down and pump out that excessively grease statically ,,,,,,smart men learn from their mistakes, wise men learn from the mistakes of others,,,but the last lingering question, with this knowledge Are you really going to let your local mechanic or even newbie at the dealer grease your shafts in fear of getting shafted ? The repair cost must be huge on either side of that shaft, food for thought. Not to be a buzz kill either but how much grease is in that chamber right now,,,,,its only four bolts and one zert in the front for peace of mind ? thanks for your time and patience with the long winded msg hope it helps or saves some grief
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I think most people seemed to be more concerned about moly vs. no moly for that portion. I've read a lot here and on BITOG forums and just came to to conclusion a couple of pumps for the spines is plenty. Since most dealers or lube shops wont probably hit them at all anyway. I just put the rig in neutral and roll it until things line up. I'm planning on doing it each oil change just to keep it simple.
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01-05-2020, 06:22 PM
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#34
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: iowa
Posts: 905
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: iowa
Posts: 905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daftjungle03
I think most people seemed to be more concerned about moly vs. no moly for that portion. I've read a lot here and on BITOG forums and just came to to conclusion a couple of pumps for the spines is plenty. Since most dealers or lube shops wont probably hit them at all anyway. I just put the rig in neutral and roll it until things line up. I'm planning on doing it each oil change just to keep it simple.
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you mean to say you're planning to grease the slip joint on the driveshaft at every oil change? if so, keep in mind that the grease doesnt really go anywhere or evaporate away, so eventually after not too many oil changes you will have pumped in too much grease & have an overfill situation. the slip joint isnt like a ujoint where you can flush out the grease as much as you want.
doing about 4-6 pumps is all the slip joint should need for a long time until it starts to clunk again & if its not making any noise now then a few pumps of grease is all thats needed for preventative maint.
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01-07-2020, 08:52 AM
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#35
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Virginia
Age: 59
Posts: 20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Virginia
Age: 59
Posts: 20
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No grease fittings
Are all 4Runners supposed to have these grease fittings? I have a 2008 2WD and saw the grease fittings in the Chiltons Manual and picked up a grease gun, but when I went underneath it I couldn't find them. It's been a long time since I had a vehicle with grease fittings, but I don't see anything on the driveshaft.
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2008 V6 RWD SR5
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01-07-2020, 01:20 PM
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#36
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: iowa
Posts: 905
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: iowa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackDuggan
Are all 4Runners supposed to have these grease fittings? I have a 2008 2WD and saw the grease fittings in the Chiltons Manual and picked up a grease gun, but when I went underneath it I couldn't find them. It's been a long time since I had a vehicle with grease fittings, but I don't see anything on the driveshaft.
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you should have fittings on the ujoints but not sure of the 2wd have the slip joint like 4wd. all 2wd cars i have seen have a solid drive shaft & the slip yoke is at the front in the d/s going into the trans & not greased like a 4wd.
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01-08-2020, 05:05 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Earth, Central Oregun
Age: 53
Posts: 1,196
Real Name: Derek
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Earth, Central Oregun
Age: 53
Posts: 1,196
Real Name: Derek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackDuggan
Are all 4Runners supposed to have these grease fittings? I have a 2008 2WD and saw the grease fittings in the Chiltons Manual and picked up a grease gun, but when I went underneath it I couldn't find them. It's been a long time since I had a vehicle with grease fittings, but I don't see anything on the driveshaft.
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No zerks on the 2wd.
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2004 T4R 4x4 SR5 v6
Some modifications.
Black-N-Blue
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03-15-2020, 08:32 PM
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#38
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 610
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tampa, FL
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Bringing this back.. my buddy has a 3rd gen with 215k miles and said he uses "Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge" for both the spider and slip joints and has never had an issue.. My 4th gen has 178k miles and i've put on 60k miles and never greased them..
Thoughts on using this grease on all zerk fittings?
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03-17-2020, 01:17 PM
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#39
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 618
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHagood
Bringing this back.. my buddy has a 3rd gen with 215k miles and said he uses "Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge" for both the spider and slip joints and has never had an issue.. My 4th gen has 178k miles and i've put on 60k miles and never greased them..
Thoughts on using this grease on all zerk fittings?
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Should be fine from what I’ve read, the moly content is pretty low so you should be good to go. I just did all of mine this past weekend with the Mobil Synthetic grease and it was also fine.
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2006 4Runner Sport Edition V8 4WD
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03-17-2020, 05:21 PM
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#40
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 610
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Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drift Monkey
Should be fine from what I’ve read, the moly content is pretty low so you should be good to go. I just did all of mine this past weekend with the Mobil Synthetic grease and it was also fine.
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Awesome, thanks for the reply.
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04-16-2020, 12:19 PM
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#41
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Texas
Posts: 2
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Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Texas
Posts: 2
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Is my dust seal missing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by <<<<
You are correct #1 and #3 take Lith No2 grease and those are Spiders and #2 is a Slider and takes MolyLith. I use Synthetic Mobil1 on spiders and regular dyno MolyLith on slider. Do not overfill slider because it can pop the dust seal at full compression (3-7 pumps is enough). As for spiders keep pumping until grease oozes out of all berings then wipe extra stuff off and it is done.
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Hi there, I'm new to the forum and still getting to know my recently bought 2004 T4R. It came with some transfer case problems (I had to replace it), and no front driveshaft (propeller shaft). I found a drive shaft on a junkyard that seems to me like it fits, but after everything has been installed, the slip yoke of the drive shaft is showing some of the teeth! am I missing some kind of boot? Or is it the dust seal that is mentioned in this answer? I want to grease that slip yoke, but if I do, the grease is just going to start slinging out of that gap. Any help?
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04-16-2020, 04:40 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: KC
Posts: 3,225
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: KC
Posts: 3,225
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You should not see any splines. Front shaft looks like this rear one just smaller:
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04-16-2020, 08:07 PM
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#43
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: SD
Posts: 35
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Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: SD
Posts: 35
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Where and how do we grease a 2wd Ujoint?
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04-16-2020, 08:57 PM
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#44
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 3
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Join Date: Jun 2019
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Thump/Clunk still there after installing new drive shaft
I bought a used 2008 V8 4Runner 2 years ago and experienced the thumping/clunking issue around 1 month after purchase. The thumping would occur when coming to a stop, when accelerating from stop and when accelerating moderately or hard from ~20 mph.
My mechanic would grease the driveshaft during every oil change which would address the issue for ~500 miles. After reading many posts in this forum, I was confident that replacing the drive shaft would resolve the issue. My mechanic is very knowledgeable about Toyotas but even he was not certain that replacing the drive shaft would solve the problem.
One week after installing the new Toyota drive shaft, (not the Lexus part), I was happy to report that the thumping had gone away, or at least I thought so. While driving to work one morning, I accelerated moderately hard from ~20 mph and felt the thump/clunk again. I went reported the issue to my mechanic and went back to have him tighten the U joint bolts. I also learned that he replaced only the rear drive shaft. I asked if he should have replaced the front drive shaft as well and he responded by saying that he did not think that the front drive shaft had anything to do with the thump/clunk issue.
It has been more than 2 months since I replaced the rear drive shaft but given my state implemented stay at home orders in mid-March, I have driven my car ~300 miles with the new drive shaft. There is no issue when coming to a stop or accelerating from a stop but the issue did present itself again 3 days ago when I accelerated moderately hard from ~20mph.
My mechanic believes that there is some other issue with my transmission, perhaps with the differential. He has found a significant amount of rust (also know issue with this generation 4Runner) which we have covered with 3M rubber coating twice since I bought the vehicle.
I wanted to reach out to this forum and ask if anyone might know what is causing the thump/clunk when accelerating from ~20 mph. Is this a front drive shaft issue, differential or something else in the transmission?
I use my 4Runner as my daily driver and to trailer my race car to the track. I have installed an auxiliary transmission cooler, replaced the timing belt and done a full tune up since purchase. The truck runs beautifully, except for this one annoying issue. I want to address this issue given that I tow a heavy load (race car plus equipment and tools = ~6,000 pounds) 7-10 times per year, sometimes several hundred miles and over significant grades.
Any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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2008 T4R Limited V8
Last edited by VikAry; 04-16-2020 at 08:58 PM.
Reason: Fix title
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09-08-2020, 12:05 AM
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#45
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Long Beach Washington
Posts: 27
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Location: Long Beach Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firebirdguy
you mean to say you're planning to grease the slip joint on the driveshaft at every oil change? if so, keep in mind that the grease doesnt really go anywhere or evaporate away, so eventually after not too many oil changes you will have pumped in too much grease & have an overfill situation. the slip joint isnt like a ujoint where you can flush out the grease as much as you want.
doing about 4-6 pumps is all the slip joint should need for a long time until it starts to clunk again & if its not making any noise now then a few pumps of grease is all thats needed for preventative maint.
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If you don’t know whether the slip yoke has been greased at all throughout its life what would you do? I recently did mine and gave 5 pumps to both slider fittings but I didn’t see/feel the driveshaft expand. It’s possible I don’t know exactly what I’m looking for, but it’s been about a week since she got some grease and the clunk remains. It’s not as strong, but it is still there. Would you continue to do like 5 or 6 pumps a week until it disappears or just pump until expansion?
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