I called Toyota and they wanted 435.00 American dollars for a break change. I knew I needed breaks because I had my tires rotated and the sensor was close to the rotor. Then I called my regular mechainic and he wanted some decent cash for it and I would provide the toyota pads.

So I found a guy who works for Acura who does side work. A friend of mine at the job refered me to him, it is feelHe went over the whole truck and told me excalty what I need. I went to him today and he did it for 30.00. I was so happy with his work I didn't have a ten in my wallet so I gave him 40.00. I also had some Toyota break fluid so he sucked out all the old fluid and added new fluid. I am so happy with the work.

Also, from my parts guy, I also bought all the belts, timing, water pump, thermostat, PVC valve, hoses, and wires at great prices so I'll have my guy do that too. I have 84,000+ miles so its time to do this stuff. I didn't need rear breaks (he pulled the cover) and I didn't need rotors. I do, however need wheel bearings because there was alittle play in the wheel when its on the lift and with the wheel off, there was alittle play in the rotor. Preventaive matainence. Overall, I'm happy.

It's brakes --- not breaks! If your brakes really break you're in trouble. Your wheel bearing are probably ok - they just need to be cleaned and repacked - normal maintenance. That is unless you do a lot of off roading and ford alot of streams. Use (or have him) use a good quality water proof wheel bearing grease and best to replace the seals. Its a much bigger job than pulling the piston pad pins and popping in new pads though. The caliper has to be removed to start.

If that guy did all that work and inspection on your car for $30 and he is not your blood brother, than he is crazy.

I do all my work because I like it and really need to spend that money in better places. I know the amount of work involved to do all that stuff and $100 would be a steal. As a service to someone I wouldn't do that for under $150.

My rear pads are shot but it

It's fine --- not find!! HEHE.....

"Ah, ye who live in glass house not throw stone." (ancient Chinese proverb, grasshopper)



We're all human and certainly capable of our share of typos.

If this chap got someone to do all of that for $30, it would seem that being a bad speller is hardly a fault.


Have a great weekend, people!!

YES YES -but just to make it clear you quoted me as if I'm the spelling police...I quoted wolfgang for policing NewYork for breaks....so who should you have quoted with your post??

The post was essentially aimed at all of us here. Far too often, our fingers type faster than our brains can think.


:awais:


"Growin up leads to growin' old and that leads to dyin';
and dyin' to me don't sound like all that much fun." -- John Cougar Mellencamp, The Authority Song

Kewl eye gotcha!!

"It is much easier to be critical than correct." Benjamin Disraeli - author

"Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever." Mahatma Gandhi - nationalist leader

I try to do all my own work to ensure job is done properly and with correct parts. When doing brakes the pad holding pins need to be cleaned (often get rusty) and lubed with proper grease (so pads slide smoothly). Many have pin holding spring clips - and they need to be replaced if worn. The pads need anti-squeal compond applied to back. The rotors need to be scuffed up to break any glaze. Changing just the brake fluid in the reservoir is a start but really the brake lines need to be bleed to get old fluid out of the calipers and the lines (where moisture collects). Also need to use caution in using old opened cans of brake fluid - since once opened it collects moisture just sitting on the shelf. At same time as doing brakes I always put anti seize compound (or lightly grease) on the center hub hole (so it doesn't freeze pn the axel) and the lug nuts. Lug nuts should be tightened diagonally with a torque wrench. So about a 2 hour job if done correctly.