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Old 08-21-2018, 04:21 PM #16
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I strongly recommend this paint coating........... https://www.autogeek.net/nano-paint-sealant.html

Its reasonably prices, fairly simple to put on, and it has truly lasted a year. I am VERY particular about sealing and coating my paint and this has been the best and most durable product I've ever used. All the work is in the prep but why let all those hours of anguish go to waste without putting an excellent product on top.

Plenty of youtube videos to support the product also.
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Old 08-21-2018, 09:59 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSRP. View Post
Sorry, but no that's not true (for 99% of those reading this), what paste wax do you use?

Unless you're using Collinite or a handful of "online only" specialty paste waxes that are durable, you're maybe getting 30-60 days of real protection.
Please don't say nu-finish or anything that you can get from a local walmart/advanced auto.

If you go through the effort of paste wax, just understand that there are sealants and semi-permanent sealants that take less time to apply (not including the spray and rinse coatings) which will last 6-24 months depending on your local weather conditions.

As you said, your truck, do what makes you happy. A 4runner will probably take you just over 30 minutes start to finish with a paste wax (if you are quick) that will last, optimistically, 90 days. A sealant like collinite/Mckee's will be marginally quicker to apply but last you 6-24 months. A spray and rinse sealant will take you 2 additional minutes to incorporate into a regular car wash and last you 90 days. I clay with a clay sponge which is marginally quicker than regular clay too.

This is all assuming you wash properly, and are able to avoid wash-induced swirls and marring. If you have a brand new truck and want ot keep it that way, your #1 priority is to avoid touching the paint as much as possible. The old ways of paste waxes that need buffing, bead water instead of sheeting would be a point of contact that I would recommend skipping to put off the need to machine polish the paint. (if that is your goal)
Meguiars yellow 26 paste wax. I'm 6 months in and water still rolls off the paint. You're opinion is yours however your spray on way will not hold up as long as this.
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Old 08-24-2018, 09:10 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2016 4Runner SR5 View Post
Meguiars yellow 26 paste wax. I'm 6 months in and water still rolls off the paint. You're opinion is yours however your spray on way will not hold up as long as this.
Not trying to be an internet troll, but like I said, there are more durable paste waxes even from Meguiars that you would be better off with, like Meg NXT or 16. Don't take it from me, a nobody (I've used all 3 and still have a can of discontinued #16 if you want it, I'll never use it)

https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sh...ech-yellow-wax
https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sh...-26-Durability
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-d...6-vs-26-a.html

Last edited by MSRP.; 08-24-2018 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 08-24-2018, 04:31 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSRP. View Post
Not trying to be an internet troll, but like I said, there are more durable paste waxes even from Meguiars that you would be better off with, like Meg NXT or 16. Don't take it from me, a nobody (I've used all 3 and still have a can of discontinued #16 if you want it, I'll never use it)

https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sh...ech-yellow-wax
https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sh...-26-Durability
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-d...6-vs-26-a.html
Maybe so however I clay and wax every 6 months. This holds up just fine between waxes.
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Old 08-26-2018, 10:49 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2016 4Runner SR5 View Post
Maybe so however I clay and wax every 6 months. This holds up just fine between waxes.
I havenít tried #26 yet but IIRC itís carnuba plus synthetic stuff which may help its longevity. Iíve always seen positive reviews for it. P21s on the other hand doesnít last nearly as long for me but it looks amazing while on there.
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Old 08-27-2018, 04:22 PM #21
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No shortcuts

Well someone told me about this product #topcoat-f11 and I was like no way. If you ever heard of this product, again no way. Most polishes these days are pretty good and just require a little elbow pressure and focus so just thought I would share the knowledge. Happy detailing to you all!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBCGgUgvYs0
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Old 09-09-2018, 08:12 PM #22
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Do you use the same clay bar after a few uses or do you throw away and get new? I throw away after 3 or 4 jobs do to the fact that the clay bar has a lot of contaminants in it. Just my theory.
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Old 09-22-2018, 08:18 PM #23
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Waxing After Clay Bar

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redcamaro72 View Post
Do you use the same clay bar after a few uses or do you throw away and get new? I throw away after 3 or 4 jobs do to the fact that the clay bar has a lot of contaminants in it. Just my theory.


Well, it depends yes on the heaviness of use. I really donít throw them away unless
Dropped
Using on multiple cars
Extreme contaminates build up from tar/sap/etc

What I use the old ones that pass 3-4 times of use is on spots like near the mud guards, lower door panels. Then, I use older piece on wheels ONLY!

Clay bar is something of like a scalpel and should only be used under extreme conditions. On personal vehicles I use clay bar maybe every 2 years. I keep a few layers on polish and sealant on my paint throughout the year due to the beating it takes from sun, rain, and mud/debris on trails.

Before doing this one should sit and plan their vehicle clean and paint correction regimen.

Hope that helps! Happy cleaning, paint correcting, polishing, waxing!


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Old 01-01-2019, 05:18 PM #24
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As a pro detailer, I rinse after claying and use an Isopropyl alcohol solution to prep the paint for the wax. Surface prep is 90% of the key to success in auto detailing.
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Old 01-30-2019, 05:45 PM #25
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I agree with the post above, prep and keeping up with washing is the best prep. I have had great success with 3M Marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax. This goes on easy, comes off complete with micro fiber rags and looks great. Being designed for marine, it handles really tough conditions well. This was suggested to me several years ago by a detail guy and I have not been disappointed or found anything better. I use Adams and Chemical Guy products with success, but for pure waxing the 3M product has been great.
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Old 01-30-2019, 06:00 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sam-sack View Post
As a pro detailer, I rinse after claying and use an Isopropyl alcohol solution to prep the paint for the wax. Surface prep is 90% of the key to success in auto detailing.
+1. The importance is that you have a well prepped surface after claying--this could be achieved by a wash, post-clay wipe down, or both. I try to do both if time permits (post-clay wash, then wipe down).

If you're committed to using a wax as opposed to a polymer or ceramic coating, you could follow this process:

Wash
Clay
Wash
IPA wipe down
Polish (optional, depending on condition of paint and/or personal preference)
Sealant (optional)
Wax

Depending on the level of contamination, you might be able to consolidate the first few steps by using a clay wash mitt.

While Meguiars makes great products, I personally prefer Collinite 845 wax.
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Old 02-02-2019, 09:51 AM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F80ZCP View Post
+1. The importance is that you have a well prepped surface after claying--this could be achieved by a wash, post-clay wipe down, or both. I try to do both if time permits (post-clay wash, then wipe down).

If you're committed to using a wax as opposed to a polymer or ceramic coating, you could follow this process:

Wash
Clay
Wash
IPA wipe down
Polish (optional, depending on condition of paint and/or personal preference)
Sealant (optional)
Wax

Depending on the level of contamination, you might be able to consolidate the first few steps by using a clay wash mitt.

While Meguiars makes great products, I personally prefer Collinite 845 wax.
I would never have thought to use IPA on the paint. Seems like it would have too strong of a drying effect and suck some life out of the paint/clear coat. I guess not though! But I won’t try it, my routine seems to work fine without as I try to minimize steps
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Old 02-06-2019, 01:39 PM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid_Amble View Post
I would never have thought to use IPA on the paint. Seems like it would have too strong of a drying effect and suck some life out of the paint/clear coat. I guess not though! But I wonít try it, my routine seems to work fine without as I try to minimize steps
Sorry for the late response. I should clarify that IPA is often diluted and not used at full strength.

There are ready to use solutions made specifically for detailing that can be used instead of a diluted IPA solution, such as CarPro Eraser.
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Old 02-06-2019, 02:00 PM #29
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Can someone offer some suggestions on this? Looking for product recommendations and tips.

Thanks all.

Wash (two bucket method using Dawn)
Clay (will use a clay bar and I got this)
Wash (new water and Dawn)
IPA wipe down (what % IPA? How much to dilute?)
Polish (What brand?)
Sealant (What brand?)
Wax (going with 3M 09030 Marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax)

Any sealant/protector/extender needed after the Wax step?


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Old 02-06-2019, 02:38 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F80ZCP View Post
Sorry for the late response. I should clarify that IPA is often diluted and not used at full strength.

There are ready to use solutions made specifically for detailing that can be used instead of a diluted IPA solution, such as CarPro Eraser.
AKA, do the same thing but pay 10x the cost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eddielasvegas View Post
Can someone offer some suggestions on this? Looking for product recommendations and tips.

Thanks all.

Wash (two bucket method using Dawn)
Clay (will use a clay bar and I got this)
Wash (new water and Dawn)
IPA wipe down (what % IPA? How much to dilute?)
Polish (What brand?)
Sealant (What brand?)
Wax (going with 3M 09030 Marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax)

Any sealant/protector/extender needed after the Wax step?


Eddie
Go on youtube, there's 20 ways of saying the same thing.
IPA wipe down not really necessary after you clay, before you polish.

Polish/compounding without a machine is just about pointless.
Sealant/Wax are just about interchangeable, you don't really need both.
No experience with your 3M wax, if it lasts at least 6 months, you're good. If that's all the durability you get from it, you can get the same results with 80% less work in a hybrid ceramic coating/Si02 type of coating. Again, lots of vendors producing a very similar product. Most are under $20 for a 16oz bottle.
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