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Old 02-09-2019, 09:45 PM #31
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Go on youtube and look up " Sweet Project Cars." That guy gets some amazing results from some very basic stuff.
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Old 02-09-2019, 09:57 PM #32
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The time wax lasts depends on how much you actually drive it,garage or no garage and is it driven in a lot of inclement weather.
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Old 02-11-2019, 04:42 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob3dsf View Post
Go on youtube and look up " Sweet Project Cars." That guy gets some amazing results from some very basic stuff.
Correct, 90% of it is in the prep with machine polishing, but if the OP question inquiring about Mother's clay bar kit.. I'm betting he's not the type to buy a $200 polisher and $100 in supplies...

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The time wax lasts depends on how much you actually drive it,garage or no garage and is it driven in a lot of inclement weather.
Kinda true, but buying the right wax/sealant will ensure durability. Some are only designed for a few weeks/first rainfall. Anything beyond a month will most likely be a hybrid/synthetic product, and not 100% carnauba wax.
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Old 02-15-2019, 11:15 AM #34
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why are you using dawn dish soap ? dish soap is an acid . use auto finish soap products.

in your area the high heat will vaporize the paste wax in about 2 hrs around 12 noon.

if your paint looks dull then the dawn soap killed the finish..

use the 3m polish with a low speed buffer 700rpm and a black pad.. to a section at a time light force on the paint.. then wash the black pad and do another section.. after the polishing then put on synthetic wax sealer.lasts longer than paste wax use the clear not white ..

2001 is the paint original ? if it does not look good after the polishing then need a paint job .. also you may need the interior seats covering replaced .
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Old 03-27-2019, 10:43 PM #35
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Do not use Dawn on your paint. Go and purchase Purple Power Vehicle and Boat Wash. It is very good removing road grime, road salt and traffic film. Next just clay or a clay mitt and then rinse and use IPA wipe down and then polish and seal with a sealant and the top with your favorite wax. I am currently using the Meguiars Ultimate Fast Finish and Collinite 845. Go on YouTube and check out Wilson Auto Detailing, Dallas Paint Correction, Larry with Ammo NYC, Fab Automotive, Darren with Auto Fetish and Brian with Apex Detail. They are professional detailers and you can learn lots. Don’t listen to much from The Seeet Project Cars.
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Old 03-29-2019, 07:24 AM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catrains View Post
I do have a black vehicle purchased it in nov 1995 . it is a 1996 chev Impala SS..

the paint is in great condition as I use micro fiber washing/waxing cloths no sponges.. also I put on the water hose a water filter .

perhaps every 2 years I will use final finish polish with a black foam pad on a variable speed buffer @700 RPM slow speed and very lightly float over the surface .. I spray water with a spray bottle on the polish if it dries as I polish the surface .. then wipe down with the micro fiber cloths .. when the cloth gets dirty need another cloth and wash them properly so they do the job...

on the car washing using Meguiars gold soap .. then if needed I use a clear synthetic protection ..

when I wash it the mit floats over the surface like on glass and the dirty comes off easy no rubbing ..

perhaps I will post the picture of my 22yr old black ride..
The problem I do have since my black paint is still so good , those damn Turkeys will at times peck on my car since they see themselves since it is like a mirror ..

so this is my 23 year old Impala SS
Dude- respect! that's sweet paint!
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Old 06-29-2019, 10:54 PM #37
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I know this is kind of late, but anyone try out Duragloss products? I've just used it recently w/ my 4runner and my wife's Sequoia and it turned out great.

These are the products I used w/ a Griot's DA polisher.

16 oz. - Marine & RV Polish

Total Performance Polish)

Clear Coat Polish)

Polish Bonding Agent)

Aquawax)

I interchange between the 501 and 105 as far as my polisher and I mix it w/ the PBA (polishing bonding agent) on a 4:1 ratio mix of 4 parts either 501 or 105 to 1 part PBA.

Next I'll mix in another separate bottle a 4:1 ratio of 101 CCP (clear coat polish) and PBA to give it that wet look.

Last step is to top it off w/ their spray wax Aquawax and I'll use that in between washes to clean my vehicle.

I also have Collinite #845 and will try using that this fall/winter along w/ my Duragloss.
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Old 06-29-2019, 11:08 PM #38
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This was a few months ago when I detailed her Sequoia. Took me three days to complete about 7-8 hours a day. Her car hasn’t been detailed in over 4-5 years let alone waxed.

I also used the 105/PBA mix to shine up her rims and glad to say, the brake dust hasn’t stuck as much to the rims compared to just washing and drying it.

I also used that same mix to polish the windshield and the rest of the windows and it worked well. It helped bead the water and expel it while driving, kind of like RainX


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Old 07-03-2019, 10:08 PM #39
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Collinite 476 after claying is the best stuff out there. Lasts a very along time but I nevertheless wax every 2 months. Have been using Collinite 476 for 17 years
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Old 07-03-2019, 10:20 PM #40
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I just discovered Collinite when I was getting ready to detail my new 4R. very easy to use and the shine is noticeably better than anything else I've used. only been a week so time will tell how it last. One of the cars we used it on is always garaged when home and the other two alternate a spot in the garage, so we'll see
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Old 07-10-2019, 12:17 AM #41
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I'm going to use the Collinite 845 probably around fall when I detail my car again to get it ready for winter. I'll still use the Duragloss products but add in the Collinite 845 after I'm done w/ using their polish/bonding agent combo. I read in one of those detailing forums that applying the Collinite 845 after applying the Duragloss products gives it some extra longevity and it gives it a warmer tone.

That's the only downside to using the Duragloss products. It has too many steps but the end result is just spectacular if you take your time to do it correctly. It just leaves that nice wet look to it.

All I can say is that I'm happy w/ Duragloss's durability to say the least. After a quick wash and a quick spray and wipe down of their Aquawax, the paint popped again like it was just freshly waxed.
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Old 08-18-2019, 09:33 PM #42
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Quote:
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Wash, clay, wash again, dry, wax. The clay lube is a waste of money, just use soapy water.
100% agree, but usually the "clay lube" is just a bottle of spray wax good for bird poop or bug crap
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Old 08-18-2019, 09:59 PM #43
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100% agree, but usually the "clay lube" is just a bottle of spray wax good for bird poop or bug crap
Correct, it's quick detail spray. I use 3M Perfect-It III clay bar with just some fresh clean soapy water and it does the job.
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Old 02-26-2020, 01:14 AM #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trap-alaska View Post
I bought a Mother's Clay Bar kit with the lubricant. Do I need to wash the panel between clay bar with lubricant and waxing or can I just go right to wax? The box doesn't say you need to wash it but I don't want to wax over something I shouldn't.
1. Clay(remove physical contamination)
2. Isopropyl Alcohol(removes chemical contamination)
3. Polish or Glaze(glaze fills in swirls and scratches, polish tries to remove them)
3a. Sometimes a Glaze is good enough. #7 Meguiar’s Hand Glaze.
4. Carnauba Wax(gives a shine, but carnauba will come off) meg#16
5. Polymer Sealer(it’s like rainX for the paint and wax) meg#20
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Old 03-03-2020, 08:21 PM #45
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I Have learned that wax attracts dust, pollen and other contaminants. Recently I have switched to the ceramic polymer coatings and couldn’t be happier. My wife has a dark graphite BMW X5 and that finish shows every hairline scratch. I put two coats of the ceramic coating and wow what a difference it has made. The paint (aside from the few door dings) looks amazing. I did my silver 4Runner this weekend and the couple of minor trial stripes have disappeared and the coating repeals water way better then wax. I highly recommend the ceramic polymer coating.
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