How often should greasing the driveshaft be done (assume normal operating conditions / I don't drive off road)?

Valvoline Dura Blend grease fits the requirements for both the driveshaft and universal joints. It is a lithium based EP #2 grease with 1% moly content which is enough for the driveshaft but won't harm the needle roller bearings in the u-joints. It is safe to use on all automotive applications for all domestic & foreign vehicles.

My dealer said to grease the driveline every 15,000 miles. FWIW. my 08 has 3000 miles and was clunking a lot. When I greased both driveshafts the shafts expanded about an inch each. So, I doubt there was much grease in there from the factory.

Off topic but if you're reading this changing axle and t-case fluid may be your next question http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...threadid=48527 & http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...d&pagenumber=1

Just for reference, I have an 08 V6 4WD. I seem to be blind, dense, or maybe both. I'm only finding 3 zerks total: 2 in the front and one in the back. Where are the other 3 zerks?

While greasing a dab or two on the steering stops will stop the awful parking lot creaks and grones...

Some people seem to go with one type of lubricant only. Hmmm, I'm about to perform this on my vehicle...

In my 2007 Repair Manual (PDF), it says same thing as the 2003 manual posted here:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...e&pagenumber=3

LUBRICATE PROPELLER SHAFT AND TIGHTEN BOLTS

(a) 4WD: Lubricate propeller shaft, referring to the lubrication chart. Before pumping in grease, wipe off any mud and dust on the grease fitting.

Grease grade

(b) Tighten the bolts for propeller shaft.

A: Propeller Shaft Spider
B: Propeller Shaft Sliding Yoke
C: Double-Cardan Joint


Spider: Lithium base chassis grease NLGI No. 2

Slide yoke and double-cardan joint: Molybdenum disulphide lithium base chassis grease NLGI No. 2
CLICK HERE for PDF from Manual

...just adding a link...

Lubrication for underneath
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?t=56615

thank you!! r32

Most automotive greases are lithium-thickened oils, with various additives for friction, corrosion, etc. Molybdenum disulfide (moly) is an inexpensive and extremely effective friction reducer. It reduces friction so much that needle bearings will stop rolling and slide if there's the slightest imperfection or debris in them. Once one needle bearing roller slides a bit, it develops a flat spot, and will continue to slide. This reduces the thickness of that needle, so adjacent rollers take more load. The entire bearing assembly will fail quickly.

Moly grease is not recommended for rolling bearings, like in our U-joints, but highly recommended for sliding surfaces, like in our telescoping driveshafts.

But I still use moly in everything, 'cause I eat danger for breakfast. And I'm too lazy to maintain and haul around two grease guns in my garage. So far, I've had no bearing failures, except on bearings I didn't grease enough long ago.

Go easy on greasing the sliding driveshaft, that's the zerk on the side of the driveshaft, not the ones deep in on the U-joints. A couple pumps is good, let it spin and migrate all the way to the other end of the shaft where it's needed. Pumping the driveshaft full of grease can fill the hollow shaft with grease, so the driveshaft can't slide in as the rear suspension squats.

Just like to add.... which can result in a cracked transfer case housing.

Good info scottm.

Thanks. It actually has resulted in a cracked transfer case, someone I know. Up until that failure, you would be stretching and compressing your engine/transfer case mounts and rear suspension mounts to their limits. Gears, seals, and bearings in the drivetrain would also be seeing a tremendous amount of strain, possibly with no indications until something wore out unusually early. I've heard of some rear diffs going out strangely early, makes me wonder.

I doubt that the pressure built up in the slip joint in the DS will damage a set of gears. The crush sleeve around a pinion takes about 300 ft-lbs to crush and unless you crush it further, should not change the backlash.

I still wonder. Enough pressure to crack a transfer case is plenty to crush a crush sleeve, I'd think.

Yeah, I'm not sure either. I've seen t-cases break the output. The sad thing is a lot of these compaines (New Process, Aisin, and others) make their cases out of cast aluminum....which is quite brittle. Cases like Atlas and Stak are made from billet and are MUCH more durable.

At the risk of sounding like an idiot, are there any zerk fittings on the 2WD drivetrain?

caboose:This is for 4X4 only.

I just did my driveshaft/chassis lubrication last night at 27,500 miles on the ODO. I used the Lithium / Moly Lithium Valvoline. Everything went well and thank you to everyone that posted links and pic's it made it easy for me. I did notice that when i started up my vehicle afterwards a little white smoke and a burning smell came from the exhaust. Has anyone else had this happen to them? i wonder if a little lub got on the exhaust pipe and it is just burning off. Not sure though. The same thing this morning when i started up for work and pulling in to the parking deck the burning smell.