Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: The empire state
Posts: 20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: The empire state
Posts: 20
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Ill jump in here.
I have been in the restorative detailing world for roughly 2 decades, before “paint correction” was a buzz saying. I also was the very very first person in the US to have the very first Cquartz product in hand in the US, when it was actually called AQuartz(long pretty ugly story, pm if you want more on this). But literally.
First point: there is mostly nothing ceramic about ceramic coatings.. Find the MSDS to a majority and you will find that a majority of them are siloxane based. Siloxanes are heavy duty silicones, same, but stronger ingredients akin to those mixed into various waxes, sealants and tire dressings. Heck, siloxanes are also in hair conditioners.
NOTE: This is why a lot of them explicitly tell you to avoid heavy detergent soaps and washes. Because it degrades them very fast.
An exception to explore is optiCOAT, or if you want an EASY sealant, optiSEAL.
Since youre a duragloss guy 501/105 would be really easy for cleaner/polishing combo.
I think if your wifes paint is driving you bonkers you have a couple options, both entail a slight dissection of how its being washed. If shes a car wash lady, forget your sanity. If you are doing the washing, something like a ton of rinsing, two bucket method and a sheepskin mitt, left to soak in soap solution while you rinse may be a solid option paired with taking your time.
If not, Toyota may have just chosen paint materials that really like to be marred.
I have always been a huge proponent of “if you touch, add to it” meaning regardless of whatever wax or sealant you use, pat dry the care carefully, but do your final wipe with a spray wax or sealant that you find easy to use for your climate(some play better in some places better than others). 951 aquawax is absolutely brilliant stuff for this.
Last kick off point is: if you intend to maintain the paint with polishing, a simple DA polisher may provide an easier, sharper result than working by hand. Depending on the paint, something like 111 or 105 from DG followed with 105 or even wiped off with 951 could be very easy going for you.
The other option is finding something that conceals the marks to your eyes but keeps it protected and keeps everyone happy with “oOoO its shiny”.
That said, there are a million products out there for wipe on walk away and even spray/rinse off/dry. Depends on how involved you want to be.
Be forewarned: this is a rabbit hole.
EDIT: I forgot to mention, “ceramic” misnomer products do NOT add physical hardness. Think about actual ceramic items in the world before doing your own reaearch. Also, the reason these products are the buzz are because of the look they LOCK in after people spend 20/30/40/100 hours on a detail or pay 100s to 1000s to have it done. Of course its going to look fantastic.
Point of this, properly prepped paint with something slick makes it easier to clean, much easier, and thus that lowers the risk of swirling when all other things are in place for aftercare
Last edited by igetfortunota; 04-06-2020 at 08:11 AM.
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