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Old 06-07-2020, 09:37 AM #1
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Arrow Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Introduction
Hello All, I just refreshed the LCAs on my 2005 with Whiteline LCA bushings and new ball joints. The old bushings haven’t been changed since I have owned the vehicle, and are likely the original bushings. Most people recommend replacing the whole LCA, which would definitely be a lot easier. I took this route to choose the quality parts I wanted and gain more knowledge about the 4runner suspension. This was a time consuming job, but there was nothing that I found to be too difficult for the average home mechanic. I did the majority of this job in my driveway on a sheet of cardboard with hand tools. I took a load of pictures along the way to make this as approachable as possible, so don’t let the length of post scare you away from this job. Don't hesitate to ask questions either, that's what this thread is for.

I realize this post will be super long and most may not read for leisure, but hopefully it can help someone in the future. My goal was to make this as complete of a guide as possible. All of the pictures are hosted in Imgur so that it doesn’t eat up all the server space here, and I could add as many as I needed to explain everything. I’d be happy to also make an abridged version if there is interest in something simpler, just let me know. Please drop a like, thanks, comment, rating, or whatever is needed so this post will return when others search for bushing installation help.

If you've replaced your LCA bushings, please reply with some pictures!!!

Before and After
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)


Step Directory (Jumps in Current Tab)

Parts | Return to StepsUnfortunately, the Toyota OEM LBJs are not available for individual purchase, or I would have gone with them. I know everyone has their own ball joint preferences, the Import Directs were recommended by Kevin of toothless.t4r on Instagram. He wheels like an animal, so if they work for him, then they will surely work for my needs. They also have a lifetime warranty FWIW, we’ll see if that ever gets honored.

Edit: I did find a lead on Tacoma World about importing OEM LBJs from Japan, and added a comment later in this thread with more information here: Post 43
Edit 2: Ran into a dead end looking for 4runner LBJ PNs

Here is a picture of the OEM cams and the bushings laid out in an exploded type view on my desk, with the front rear setup on the left and the front front setup on the right. There are a lot of different pieces to the cams, so hopefully this is helpful in showing them all. I know it definitely helped me to see everything laid out. As the picture shows, the front bolt goes through a cam sleeve, whereas the rear bolt has a cam attached to the head, and slides through the bushing sleeve directly.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

I did a dry fit and thought there was some play in the sleeves on the cams, turns out this is normal. You can see my post here about it with any more questions: Cam Bolts and Whiteline LCA Bushing Excessive Play Help


Tools | Return to Steps
  • Safety Glasses- Don't want to lose an eye on the ball joint clip!
  • Floor Jack
  • Jack Stands
  • Metric Socket Set- must have 19, 22, and 24mm sockets
  • Ratchet
  • Breaker Bar
  • Torque Wrench capable of up to 130 ft-lbs
  • Pitman arm, tie rod end, or 3 jaw puller
  • Sawzall
  • Carbide Blades- I used the Diablo Speed Demon Carbide Blades. You need 9" blades to get in there, unfortunately you can only use the last 3" of the blade
  • Ball Joint Press- I rented the 23 piece set from Advanced Auto. From what I have heard, this is the only way to go for the 4runner ball joints
  • Torch- I used a cheap propane torch from Home Depot
  • Stock Jack, or other suitable jack
  • Some wood blocking
  • Hammer
  • Flathead Screwdriver
  • Small wire brush or wire wheel
  • Needle Scaler- I have the giant one from Harbor Freight and it works wonders

Consumables | Return to Steps
  • Paper Towels
  • Penetrating Fluid- I use 50/50 acetone and atf that I mixed in an oil dropper
  • Cutting Oil for the sawzall blades- I used 3 in 1 oil
  • Some sort of Phosphoric Acid- I used Klean Strip Concrete and Metal Prep which is about 35-45%
  • Sandpaper
  • Brake Parts Cleaner or Soapy Water
  • POR 15
  • Paint and brushes
  • Disposable Gloves
  • Tyvek Suit- POR15 won’t come off skin for weeks, so I highly recommend one
  • Lithium Grease
  • Anti-seize


Step 1: Jack up the Vehicle | Return to Steps
Since the lower control arm helps to support the weight of the vehicle, we’re going to need it off the ground. For this job, I chose to place my jack stands just behind the body mount. The beauty of a BOF is there are lots of different places to jack from, this is just where I chose. I also like to keep light pressure on the frame from the floor jack as an extra precaution.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)


Step 2: Loosening Bolts | Return to Steps
There are 6 fasteners that need attention for this job. 2 are the alignment cams, 1 holds the ball joint to an intermediate plate, 2 hold that plate to the knuckle, and one connects the shock to the LCA. I suggest dousing them in a penetrating fluid a few days ahead of time.

This is what I called the intermediate plate. Toyota calls it the “attachment kit” but that really doesn’t describe what it does, so I like to call it the intermediate plate. You can see the 2 outer bolts connect the plate to the knuckle, and the ball joint comes through the center hole. First, remove the cotter pin, I had to drill out my cotter pin with a 3/16in bit, and remove the nut with a 24mm. Then flip over the nut and screw it until its flush with the bolt end. Give the bolt and nut a few whacks with a hammer to unseat it from the intermediate plate. If this doesn't work, you may need to rent a tie rod end/pitman arm puller to get it out. I ended up using a 3 jaw puller with the whole LCA out, since it didn't fit under, and was what I had around. Finally, loosen up the two 19mm bolts holding it to the knuckle.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Loosen the Lower Shock mount from the LCA. x2 19mm sockets or a socket and a wrench are needed, since this is a through bolt. Unfortunately I don't have a good picture of this, but I used a 6" extension to get to the nut side of the bolt. Another note is that I didn't initially remove the ball joint from that intermediate plate, so the picture shows it still attached. I don't recommend that, because the intermediate plate bolts will keep the ball joint from moving around if you have to use a pitman arm puller.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Loosen up the Front and Rear Cams with a 19mm. Hopefully the cam bolts come out, but if you're unlucky like me, then they will be seized into the bushings. This transitions nicely to the next step: Cutting
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Step 3: Cut Out Old Cam Bolts and Remove LCA | Return to Steps
This is the exception to the "only hand tools" statement before, since there is a pretty good chance you'll have to cut these out. The joints are assembled dry from Toyota, so if you didn't get an alignment on the reg, then they seize up. I was really worried to take the plunge on cutting them out, but this project is really not that bad. Make sure that you buy the Carbide Diablo blades for the sawzall, nothing else is worth it. I used 5 crappy blades just to get one end off, but 1 carbide blade took care of the rest. Also make sure to lube up the blade to keep the heat down and extend the life of the blade
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Here is where I cut, having the LCA disconnected from the knuckle allows it to be moved for easier cutting. This was especially helpful in the 3rd picture, since the tie rods make it a bit tight.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Because of the front cam bolt's design, the rearward section of the cam can get stuck after cutting. I simply put the bolt back in and gave it some encouragement with a hammer.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Once all of the cutting is done, you will be left with a LCA and some carnage. Again this pic shows the intermediate plate still attached, but you will have already removed that by now.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Last edited by y=mx+b; 08-26-2020 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 06-07-2020, 09:38 AM #2
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Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Continued

Step 4: Remove Ball Joint | Return to Steps
To begin removing the ball joint, knock out the retainer ring, I used a screwdriver pushed into the clip opening. As corroded as this appears, it came out without issue. After this is removed, cover the ball joint connection in penetrating fluid and let it sit for a bit.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Next, get set up to press out the ball joint. The sleeve I used to fit over the old ball joint was 2-3/4"OD, 2-7/16"ID, and 2-1/4"L. I picked a fitting top hat that would allow the ball joint stem to poke through. The picture inside the sleeve should be extra big. The boot has been ripped off and hopefully the big picture will show how the sleeve needs to sit outside of the ball joint shoulder. It can't be on the shoulder for this step, because then both press sides would be on the ball joint.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Next, get the C-clamp press setup with some light pressure to hold everything together. Check that the ball joint stem is going through the hole and not bound against the top hat. The last picture shows how I set up to press it out. I had the LCA vertical, the ball joint press horizontal, and used an 18" breaker bar with a 22mm socket to turn the press. I just pushed the breaker bar with my hands to tighten up the press, using my weight to push down. I'm not really a big dude either, so this is certainly doable. An impact would definitely have made this easier, but at least we know it can be done with hand tools as well.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

I heated it up a bunch with my propane torch and tightened the press as much as I could. The heat didn't really help me make much progress, until I gave it a light tap with the claw hammer shown. I was surprised, since it was a small hammer with a light hit, but the ball joint moved about 1/8-3/16" very suddenly. After that it was smooth sailing and it came out without any difficulty
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)


Step 5: Press Out Old Bushings | Return to Steps
This is where things get fun. There are many ways to remove the old bushings, and I chose the jack method. The beauty is that everyone has a stock jack, so no special tools are required.

The topic has been covered before, but I will give a detailed explanation in my own words here as well. I tried to pick my best pictures from the front and rear bushings, so you may notice they switch between the two. I only used a socket on the front bushing, so don't get worried if it's there only sometimes. Regardless, the method is the same for either one.

Jack Method
Part A: Setup
This can be a bit tricky if, like me, you're working outside on some wood blocks. A second set of hands will definitely help, but I was still able to do this on my own. In order, I had: A larger block of wood as space filler, the stock jack, then a large socket (optional). To start out, just use enough pressure to hold everything together.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Part B: Heat and Pressure
Add some more pressure to the jack. Don't go overboard on pressure with everything cold, you don't want to cause damage to the control arm. Begin adding heat. You will need to add a bunch of heat initially, there is a lot of thermal mass in the control arm and it acts like a heat sink. Eventually you will hear some popping and the bushing will begin to move a bit.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

After the bushing moves a bit, increase the pressure. Some fire may occur and it will smell bad, but keep repeating the heat and pressure.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Part C: Success
Eventually, your forbidden marshmallow will pop right out. Repeat this for the other bushings.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

I had mentioned the play in the bushing sleeves on the cam at the beginning of the thread. These pictures of the old bushings show there was also a similar play in the OEM bushings, it was just filled in with corrosion on my old bushings.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Last edited by y=mx+b; 06-11-2020 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 06-07-2020, 09:39 AM #3
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Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Continued

Step 6: Remove Old Bushing Outer Shell | Return to Steps
Note: The process described below can be skipped almost entirely if your shell is not stuck in the LCA
Because mine was so corroded, this was the most challenging part of the whole process. This section may be overly detailed, but it was a tad challenging and I want others to have success on the first attempt. Had I followed the procedure I am outlining below, it would have been much easier.

Similar to the Whiteline replacements, there is a metal shell around the rubber part of the bushing. If your LCA was as crusty as mine, it may be hard to see it in there. These pictures should give you an idea of what you're looking for:
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

On my passenger LCA, I didn't have much trouble removing the rear shell, but the front gave me trouble. I tried to wrangle it for too long without the aid of chemicals, so I wasn't getting far. I have found that chemicals + patience is the best formula for dealing with corroded parts. Based on my experience removing the shells, this is the process I would recommend:

Part A: Needle Scale the Crusties
As you see in the above picture, things appear all corroded and gross. Thankfully, the bushing shell appears to be made of an inferior material that crumbles much before the LCA. I used a needle scaler to remove any loose rust and what was left of the shell. This also helps to breakup any corrosion that is between the shell and the outer race of the LCA. I even did it on the outside to try and break up everything. You may not have much left of the bushing shell at the end, but this will actually make things easier.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Part B: Separate as Much as Possible
I used a screwdriver, which was pretty barbaric. At the time it seemed like a really good idea, and in the end it didn't do anything too harmful. Whatever tool you use, you want to carefully separate as much of the shell from the LCA as possible. More separation will allow the acid to get deeper in the following steps. The left pic is the rear bushing shell, which was mostly removed as corrosion by the needle scaler. On the right is the front shell, which was stuck pretty good. After completing both control arms, I can confirm the rear shell crumbles, whereas the front is much more stuck.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Part C: Make 2 Cuts
Make 2 cuts in the most separated area of the shell, created in the previous step. On the first LCA (picture 2), I only made 1 cut in the shell, but it bound up on itself in the center. On the second control arm (picture 3), I made 2 cuts about 1/4" away from each other and pulled that chunk out. The shell can separate from the walls, then fold in a tad, and can be removed much easier.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Part D: Phosphoric Acid Bath
I originally purchased this Klean Strip Concrete and Metal Prep to clean surface rust off of the frame before painting. From the SDS found here: Klean Strip SDS, this is 35-45% phosphoric acid. I figured soaking the LCA and bushing shell in the acid could break apart any corrosion holding them together. I did sessions of 15 minutes each, checking to see if there was any progress in between sessions. It took 30 minutes of total soaking for mine to release. As mentioned before, the intermediate plate and ball joint are on in the second pic, you will have already removed those.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Part E: Repeat A-D until the bushing shell release
I got a bit barbaric with my impatience and used some vice grips to fold the flange inward. My goal with this was to try and get better acid penetration from that side, and I believe it helped. Needle scaling around the shell again will continue to break up the partially dissolved corrosion and allow the acid to penetrate deeper.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Eventually, I was able to tap out the stuck shell with a screwdriver on one of the bent in sides. There was practically nothing left of the more corroded shell, and it came out rather easily with some needle scaling and poking around.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Part F: Clean the Mating Surfaces
There will most likely be some crusties left over after the shell comes out. I gave the ends another bath in the acid for a few minutes. Since the shells are out and you're now just removing the surface junk, they won't need that long in the acid. A small wire brush will fit down in there and get everything scrubbed out. Dip the brush in some of the acid and get scrubbing. I used paper towels to clean out the rusty acid liquid left after the scrubbing. As you can see in the last picture, this gross and scaly control arm cleaned up nicely.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

If you made it this far, the hard part is over!!!

Last edited by y=mx+b; 06-25-2020 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 06-07-2020, 09:40 AM #4
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Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Continued

Step 7: Clean LCA, Remove Rust, and Paint | Return to Steps
I went overkill on the penetrating fluid, so I wanted to get all the oily grime off first. Some soapy water and a plastic wire brush broke down the grime and the pressure washer rinsed it off... the plastic tub
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Removing Larger Rust Particles
Everywhere got needle scaled to remove the surface crusties. There was some debris left in the ball joint hole that I especially wanted to get cleaned up. It's pretty amazing how those little needles can blast away all the crap so quickly. If you own a crusty 4runner, I definitely recommend picking up one.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Removing the Surface Rust
I used the phosphoric acid and the metal wire brush again here. The acid makes quick work of the rust and etches the surface for paint. Pretty amazing to compare with the previous pictures, this was maybe 10 minutes of scrubbing. Not a whole lot of effort required for a really nice result.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Surface Prep
POR15 doesn't tend to adhere well to smooth paint, so I gave it a sanding with 150 grit sandpaper. It will adhere well to any etched metal or any areas that were previously rusted. Afterwards, clean up the surface with paper towels and brake cleaner or some household cleaner. Don't stop cleaning the surface until the paper towel comes back clean.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

After sanding and cleaning everything off, tape off all the areas that you don't want to get painted. This includes the ball joint hole, LCA bushing tubes (I had already installed the bushings), and all holes on the intermediate plate.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

POR15
If you haven’t gotten a Tyvek suit by now, it's time. This stuff gets everywhere and won't come off your skin for weeks. I set my LCAs on blocks with screws coming through so I could flip it over and do both sides in one sitting. Slap on a coat of POR15 and admire your work, the high gloss seems to make everything look nice and clean.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

I did 2 coats, letting it dry overnight and sanding in between for good adhesion. Before adding additional layers, I cut off and sanded the drip bubbles from where I flipped it over. I also noticed a few areas where the POR15 slid down an incline and left a bare spot. Using a hair dryer made sure sure the bare areas were covered. These bare spots were usually found around the bushings or near the shock attachment bracket.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Paint
POR15 will break down in direct UV light, so after those coats have been applied, a top layer of paint needs to be applied. I am using some Rustoleum rattle can black paint+primer that's suitable for metal and outdoor use. I also threw a quick coat of some clear on top for some more protection. Hopefully this paint job holds up to rock chips and stuff, I might be bummed if it gets all torn up after all the prep.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Eventually I’ll be using the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating on my frame, and will hit the inside of the LCA with that too. The kit has a snake like wand that will get in there and coat everything with a rust neutralizing and inhibiting spray.

Last edited by y=mx+b; 06-11-2020 at 02:26 PM.
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Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Continued

Step 8: Install the Whiteline Bushings | Return to Steps
To make the bushings easier to install, I threw them in the freezer a few days before I expected to push in the bushings. They will contract when cold, giving you a slight advantage on install.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

I began by giving the inside of the LCA tube another scrubbing with the phosphoric acid to remove any last rust particles. There was one build up of junk that would not come off, so I gave it a suuuper quick run with a drill sanding wheel. This should only be used if you have to, too much sanding can affect the LCA tube geometry. I used brake cleaner to clean the surface after the acid scrub and quick sand. I also cleaned the outside of the bushing shell with brake cleaner.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

To make installation easier and possibly prevent future corrosion, I coated the inside of the LCA tube with some grease. I hear the taco guys like to use SuperLube all over their LCA's, but I had some marine grease laying around. I figure the LCAs are likely to get wet, so marine grease is suitable.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Bushing Alignment
Before pressing, the alignment of the bushings is important to understand. There is about 1/4 protrusion on one side of the sleeve and 1/2" on the other side. The side with more protrusion should be pointed outward from the control arm, see big pics for installed example. This is the same for front and rear bushings, chunky side out.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

In addition, the bushing should be clocked so that the pinholes sit about horizontal.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Bushing Installation
This section will go over installing the bushings in the first LCA, because it shows both methods. However, I would advise against using the jack method to fully insert the bushing. Since it pushes against the other side of the LCA, too much force has the potential to spread the LCA. Instead, I recommend first jacking the larger bushing in about 1" and then using the ball joint press for the remainder of the larger bushing and the entirety of the smaller bushing.

Jack Method
For the small front bushing, I used the 2-1/8"OD, 1-3/4"ID, 1/2"L press cup from the ball joint press kit to press from the bushing shell. To prevent damage, you want to press on the outer race of the bushing. The press setup was: wood bock on the bottom, stock jack, press cup, bushing. Caution should be taken when applying more pressure, you don't want to put too much pressure and spread the control arm. For this reason, the press method is far superior.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

I used a screwdriver to turn the jack and pressed until the bushing was fully seated.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Press Method
The rear bushing was a bit more challenging to get in, as it requires a bit of jack method to get started. The ball joint press is not big enough to fit around the larger bushing setup. First, the bushing needs to be set into the tube about 1/2-3/4" for the ball joint press to fit. If you do the large bushing first, the stock jack will fit in there to get it started. The 2-1/8"OD, 1-3/4"ID, 1/2"L press cup from before is a bit small for this bushing, but it fit after the press was tightened. No damage to the bushing occurred either. After it was set into the LCA enough, I used the ball joint press with this setup: press cup, bushing, LCA, top hat, press.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

I turned this setup until it wouldn't turn any further. I got a bit frustrated, since there was still about 1/4" of sleeve sticking out and I couldn't turn it any more. Then, I realized the bushing was pressing on the top hat. Another note is that this $7 Harbor Freight extendable ratchet is pretty overpowered. I didn't have my breaker bar on me and put at least 150 ft-lbs on it at full extension, cranking this bushing into itself, without issue.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

I exchanged the top hat for the 2-9/64" socket that was in the ball joint kit. Everything was smooth sailing from there and the bushing was pressed in successfully.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Last edited by y=mx+b; 07-21-2020 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 06-07-2020, 09:41 AM #6
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Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Continued

Step 9: Press in New Ball Joint | Return to Steps
To start, I taped around my freshly painted LCA to prevent marring it up too much.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Next, select press tubes from the ball joint press kit that will be used to install. The 2-7/16"OD, 2-3/16"ID, 3-3/16"L press tube fit perfectly on the ball joint rim to push it in. The 2-1/8"OD, 1-3/4"ID, 1/2"L fit around the body of the ball joint and would sit on the top of the LCA to receive it. See this picture for the fitment of the pressing and receiving tube:
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

I greased the ball joint and mating surface with the same marine grease I've been using. I believe the lubrication helps the ball joint to straighten out if it gets a tad sideways on install.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Assembling everything into the press and tightening everything, the ball joint was starting to go in sideways. I over corrected the press to get the ball joint to re-center, which worked. The press could then be re-centered as well and everything was smooth sailing.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Once the ball joint is fully set into the LCA, there is a slot for a locking ring that will secure the ball joint from falling out. Tap it in as far as possible with a hammer, then use the hammer on a screwdriver to set it fully.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Last edited by y=mx+b; 09-17-2020 at 01:18 PM.
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Old 06-07-2020, 09:42 AM #7
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Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Continued

Step 10: Reinstall LCA | Return to Steps
Now that all the hard work has been done, it's time to slap that puppy back in. To make sure your suspension doesn’t fly off on the highway, everything needs to be torqued to spec. I got my specs from this thread. They’re technically for the 5th gen, but the 4th gen suspension setup is very similar.

Set Ball Joint
Put the ball joint through the taper in the intermediate plate, oriented with the steering stop pointed towards the front of the vehicle (small bushing side). Cover the ball joint stem with a socket and give it a whack to set the taper. Thread the 24mm nut on with anti-seize and tighten as much as possible outside the vehicle. This will keep the taper engaged while installing the LCA, in turn holding the two pieces together.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Bushing Tubes
Insert the larger ID tube into the front bushing and the longer and smaller ID tube into the rear bushing. Grease these on install with the included grease. It's important that these have the proper lubrication, the bushing will rotate around these tubes as the suspension articulates.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Lube Cams
Lubricate the washers, cam tube, cam nut, and the through bolt. I put anti-seize on the threaded parts and grease everywhere else. Remember to grease the washers and face of the bushing tubes, that metal on metal can cause wear and an annoying squeak. I spread the lubrication better than the picture shows, but here's where I used marine grease vs anti-seize:
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Note on Grease vs Anti-seize for the Cams
My understanding is that anti-seize is good for high temp conditions and threads, but dries up overtime and leaves the solid lubricants behind. A regular grease can wash away in wet conditions and isn’t so good for high temps, but does better lubricating in a larger void. For this reason, I chose to anti-seize the threads and use a marine grease inside the cams. I think this is a good compromise between both, but I will remove them in 6 months and report back.

It should also be noted that lubricating bolts will reduce friction, make them easier to turn, and allow the bolts to stretch further. Since torque mostly comes from friction in the head and threads, they will get tighter than dry bolts with the same torque spec. These bolts are all nice and big, so I don’t think there would be an issue with them failing from overstretching, but it's something to keep an eye out for.

Front Cams
Set the LCA in place and assemble the cams with washers into the frame tabs. The threaded end should be facing towards the rear of the vehicle, and the washers go in between the bushings and frame tabs. I oriented the cams using the 27mm head so the cam indicator ticks are pointing up, I’ll get this aligned at a shop after the job is finished. Hand tighten the bolt and wait to do the finish torque until the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Rear Cams
Like with the front bushing, lubricate the washers, cam bolt, sliding cam piece, and anti-seize the nut. Install the cams similar to the front, the nut end should be facing towards the rear of the vehicle. I also aligned this cam with the indicator ticks pointing up, using the 19mm bolt head. Again, wait to do the finish torque when the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Lower Shock Mount
Hinge the LCA up from its hanging position and fit the lower shock into its mount. Depending on how thick the paint application is, this is a tight fit. I had to use some light encouragement from a mallet. This should also be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension, since it also has a bushing in it. The bolt and nut are both 19mm and the spec is 70 ft-lbs or 95 Nm.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Intermediate Plate
Now anti-seize the intermediate plate bolts and tighten into the knuckle. There is a bit of fiddling needed to get these to line up, the cv axle compresses and causes it to toe out. The sway bar also makes moving things difficult, so some creative jacking can help. These can be torqued with the vehicle on jacks, since they don’t rotate with the suspension like the bushings. These are 19mm heads, and spec for these bolts is 118 ft-lbs or 160 Nm.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Next, the ball joint can be tightened. If the ball joint spins in the taper, it might need another hit to get set. Intermittent torquing of an impact will also allow this to tighten up without spinning. The torque spec on the 24mm ball joint nut is 103 ft-lbs or 140 Nm. After it's torqued, fit the pin through the hole and bend it around the nut. You may have to tighten the nut a tad more to get the pin to fit.
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Torque Cams
Finally, lower the vehicle so the suspension is supporting the weight. You will have to turn the wheels so that it is easier to get to the bolts with the torque wrench. For the front, the torque spec on the 19mm head through bolt is 129 ft-lbs or 175 Nm. For the rear, the torque spec on the 19mm nut is also 129 ft-lbs or 175 Nm
Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures) Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

Congratulations!
Congratulations, you made it to the end! Hopefully this is helpful and shows that this is not too bad of a process. Please leave a comment if you need help, followed this guide, have already done your bushings, or have a suggestion for improvement. I would love to see pictures of others bushing replacements as well.



Member Submitted Successful Installations | Return to Steps
This job can vary greatly depending on the LCA condition, so a variety of perspectives from the 4runner community will help to better capture this job. I'll link every member that left their feedback and experience with the install here.
  • @Hi-desertT4R : Nevada 4runner, no/minimal crusties, bushings and shells came out together, epoxy paint. See Post 39
  • @montijo505 : New Mexico 4runner, no seized cams, minimal crusties, bushings and shells came out together, Moog greasable LBJs. See Post 41 in this thread and his build thread Post 11, Post 21

Last edited by y=mx+b; 09-17-2020 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 06-07-2020, 10:07 AM #8
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This is an awesome and thorough writeup!! Thank you for taking the time to do that!

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Old 06-07-2020, 04:16 PM #9
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Great write up man. Living in the southwest, I hope to not encounter any of your issues lol. I'm going to bulletproof it while I'm (eventually) down there and weld in the Total Chaos cam tab gussets, Poly Performance Taco Tabs and Total Chaos spindle gussets.

I'm hoping the new bushings stop the wandering I'm experiencing on the highway.

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Old 06-07-2020, 05:53 PM #10
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Great write up.
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Old 06-07-2020, 06:33 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505 View Post
Great write up man. Living in the southwest, I hope to not encounter any of your issues lol. I'm going to bulletproof it while I'm (eventually) down there and weld in the Total Chaos cam tab gussets, Poly Performance Taco Tabs and Total Chaos spindle gussets.

I'm hoping the new bushings stop the wandering I'm experiencing on the highway.
Thanks a bunch! I was hoping this would represent the worst case scenario, especially with my crusty old bushing sleeves haha. I'm also hoping to improve the on road driving, changing lanes of a crowned road seems to give me the worst wander. An alignment will also help, now that its possible with new cam hardware.

I like those Total Chaos Cam gussets, I'll look further into them. The LCAs are going to have to come back off for me to strip and paint the front frame areas, so I may have to pick those up, since everything will be off and clean already.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnetnerd View Post
This is an awesome and thorough writeup!! Thank you for taking the time to do that!
Thank you, I appreciate it! I needed a little quarantine project, so following up my install with a tutorial felt like a good use of my time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MN4RNR View Post
Great write up.
Thanks, glad you liked it!

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Old 06-08-2020, 12:44 AM #12
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Great stuff.

I wanted minimal downtime and after reading a few posts about issues with Whiteline bushings I decided to get a bolt in SuperPro LCAs. They were $610 shipped but came preassembled. Iím sure this way is much cheaper.

Iím sure many that come after us will find this thread useful with the install.

Great work!


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Old 06-08-2020, 08:02 AM #13
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Awesome!

Saved it on the WayBack Machine for posterity: https://web.archive.org/web/20200608...-pictures.html

And thanks for using Imgur. I wish everyone used Imgur or similar. Photobucket has destroyed enthusiast forums with their greed.
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Old 06-08-2020, 08:02 AM #14
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Now this is a proper write-up!
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Old 06-08-2020, 12:13 PM #15
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Wow, this is an amazing write up. Great job! If I had a write up like this for every task I tackle, my wife wouldn't mentally double the amount of time I tell her it is going to take xD.

My question for everyone though is cost. Looking at good bushing, ball joints, etc. this is about 325$ in parts, plus your time. The Superpro LCA's that also help with camber (indirectly) are only 610. Not sure I can justify that cost difference.

Does underline how suspect something like the 1A Auto LCAs are though. They cost almost the same for the whole LCA as the price of the good bushings.... which is not a good sign for longevity.
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