02-27-2008, 02:16 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: CT
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Quick oil change question - locate drain plug
Sorry this has probably been asked before but I just couldn't find it doing searches.
In a 2004 V6 4wd where's the oil drain plug? I know it's underneath the skid plate and the plate has a small opening to pop open to reveal the plug. Is there a pic that shows where the plug is?
thanks
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02-27-2008, 08:24 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: South Carolina
Age: 39
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The second skid plate back, there is an oval shaped plastice cover. pop it out, and look up at the oil pan. 14mm drain plug should be visible.
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2005 4Runner SR5 2WD, bone stock, hers
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02-28-2008, 01:27 PM
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#3
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Thanks, I'm going to do the oil change this weekend and will look for it. I was hoping there's a diy write up with pics somewhere as I just bought the truck and still trying to "learn" all I can about it from this site.
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02-28-2008, 03:30 PM
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#4
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go get yourself a Fumoto Valve and when you find that drain plug, pull it out and put the valve in. The first time I changed the oil, I got an armpit ful before I got the plug all the way out. Needless to say, it was also the last time that happened.
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02-28-2008, 03:41 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally posted by nysimonsez
Thanks, I'm going to do the oil change this weekend and will look for it. I was hoping there's a diy write up with pics somewhere as I just bought the truck and still trying to "learn" all I can about it from this site.
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I just changed the oil in my 4Runner this weekend for the first time myself. I didn't take any pictures, but I'll pass on a couple of tips I learned the hard way.
1. Jack it up. Or put it on ramps (what I did). I can get under my runner without doing this, but I don't have enough room to work comfortably or safely.
2. Use the right tools. As stated, the plug is 14mm. A 6 sided socket is best (now on my to-buy list.) All I had available was a 12 side, and it cut little gouges in the plug head. Not the end of the world, but after a while there may not be enough corner left to grab.
3. Use the right tools! I also only had in my tool bag a 6" socket wrench. It was not long enough to get enough torque to remove the drain plug. Thankfully my g/f's dad had a longer one (approx 12"). I fought with the short wrench for a good 10 minutes. Finally got the longer one and the plug came right out.
4. If an OEM filter is installed, get a filter wrench. Like the Honda OEM filters, the Toyota ones are slick. And probably hot. After a good 15 minutes fighting the oil filter (because I didn't have an oil filter wrench...also on my to-buy list) I ended up driving a phillips head screwdriver through the filter and using that to get it started turning.
5. Have a small, empty water bottle ready. When you remove the oil filter, a small amount (at least in my case) came out of the filter. It spilled into the catch cup and through the drain. I had a bottle there to catch what spilled so it didn't drain all over the engine.
Otherwise, what seems to be your main concern (the cover on the skid plate) is not that big of a deal. I spent a couple of minutes looking around underneath the engine before putting my runner on ramps. After that, the cover jumped out at me. It's hard to miss. Pry it off (there are 4 clips holding it in place) and the drain plug is right there! When you're done, just remember to replace the plug and cover.
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02-28-2008, 03:44 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally posted by oilburner
go get yourself a Fumoto Valve and when you find that drain plug, pull it out and put the valve in. The first time I changed the oil, I got an armpit ful before I got the plug all the way out. Needless to say, it was also the last time that happened.
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I haven't heard of a Fumoto Valve, but based on your experience I can guess what it does. ;)
When you're removing the drain plug, put light inward pressure on it as you're turning it, This will keep the seal while you're unscrewing it.
I'll have to look into those valves though. I've never had an "armpit full" of oil hit me before, but with enough oil changes, it's bound to happen at some point.
ETA: I found that valve on line. Interesting concept, and what appears to be an excellent execution. Hopefully you can tell me from you experience, does that valve fit inside the space in the skid plate? Or rather, does the cover fit back on or does the valve stick out past the skid plate?
Last edited by TBoliv; 02-28-2008 at 04:03 PM.
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02-28-2008, 05:08 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally posted by TBoliv
I haven't heard of a Fumoto Valve, but based on your experience I can guess what it does. ;)
When you're removing the drain plug, put light inward pressure on it as you're turning it, This will keep the seal while you're unscrewing it.
I'll have to look into those valves though. I've never had an "armpit full" of oil hit me before, but with enough oil changes, it's bound to happen at some point.
ETA: I found that valve on line. Interesting concept, and what appears to be an excellent execution. Hopefully you can tell me from you experience, does that valve fit inside the space in the skid plate? Or rather, does the cover fit back on or does the valve stick out past the skid plate?
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Yeah, my armpit full wasn't too bad, but it still ticked me off....That valve is pretty slick, and yes it does clear the skidplate, by quite a bit actually. They are also available with a hose nipple on them. I also put one on my truck. I installed a by-pass oil filter system, and this works great for drawing samples for oil analysis. I put the one with the nipple on both rigs. I put a piece of tygon hose on it when I drain the 4runner, that way my drain bucket can be out of my way and I don't have to worry about getting my arm out of that skid plate hole before it gets all over me.
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02-29-2008, 10:35 AM
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#8
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Thanks for all the good advice.
I plan on doing it tomorrow along with doing the driveline service (changing the diff fluids and greasing the propeller shaft).
I wasn't planning on doing the additional stuff but since I just bought the 4R with 60k miles from the dealer I don't know what was changed before so I figured better be safe than sorry. The 4R already have the thumping noise in the rear so I know grease is necessary. I bought the oils and tools from walmart but went to autozone for the mobil one gear oil. Man that's expensive ($9/qt) vs. valvoline at $5. My old MDX used Honda diff oil and it was less than $20/gallon. Next time I know to plan ahead and get everything online.
thanks again guys.
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02-29-2008, 11:35 AM
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#9
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Give us an update and let us know how it goes! Good Luck!
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02-29-2008, 08:55 PM
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#10
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Last time I changed my oil took 15 minutes start to finish. As suggested previously get a quick drain plug. I don't jack the 4Runner up to change the oil. I don't jack it up to grease the drive shafts either. I put a tarp on the ground and slide under. I'm 6'-3" and 200 pounds, not exactly small and I can get under and reach everything. An empty quart size oil bottle works good to catch the oil during filter removal. Get a filter tool that covers the end of the filter that you can use a ratchet wrench on. Don't get the kind that wraps around the filter and squeezes it. The 15 minutes does not include lubing the drive shaft. I do that every other oil change which seems to be adequate. Get a grease gun that you can operate with one hand so you can hold the hose on the fitting with the other hand.
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03-03-2008, 09:32 AM
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#11
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x2 on the jack issue. There is no reason to jack up the trunk. Waste of time IMO, unless you are rounder than tall.
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03-03-2008, 07:12 PM
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#12
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I use ramps to get the front end up. Makes for all kinds of room under there. That way I can get a good look at everything, not just the drain plug and filter.....Also my drain "pan" is a 5 gal. bucket. I don't want to store 2 dirty pans in the garage, and my truck has a 3 1/2 gal. oil capacity. I doubt I can roll a 5 gal. bucket sideways under the 4-runner......
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Mine: '01 Chevy 2500HD Diesel - Banks Six-Gun, 4 in. turbo back, custom CAI, Pro-Comp susp., Transgo Jr. shift kit. - 482rwhp
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03-04-2008, 03:31 AM
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#13
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Normally I would agree with the "no jacks" suggestion. I changed the oil on my Silverado with out jacking it up for the two years I had it. I do however suggest ramping or jacking for the first time or when doing something new so there's more room to work when you don't know exactly what you're looking for. And besides, ramping is easy, and a set of ramps can be had from Kragen for about $35.
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03-04-2008, 10:08 AM
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#14
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Well I did the oil change on Saturday, but didn't get to do the drive line service. We had 5 inch of snow on Friday night here in CT and rained on Sat. morning, which made everything wet and messy. I parked the truck outside overnight and when I pulled it into the garage the underside was all wet. When I was doing the oil change I just decided it was way to wet to get under to do the driveline so I'll do that next week.
The oil change was easy as you guys have said. Finding the drain plug was simple, when I got under the truck I discovered that the skid plate cover was missing. I guess when the dealer service the truck before I bought it never put it back on; when I bought the truck there's no way I would've known to check under there. I didn't jack up the truck as I fit under there fine, but was a tight fit. Replaced with OEM filter and mobil1 syn oil, all in 30 minutes.
Thanks to you all for sharing your information. This is a great site and I'm looking forward to doing maintenance work and some minor mods myself in the near future.
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03-14-2008, 10:46 AM
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#15
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Did you replace the gasket seal around the drain plug? I know sometimes these crush gaskets need to be replaced. I am doing my oil change this weekend - dealer stopped giving freebies :-(
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