I ended up just using a 'regular' fluid transfer pump. Like the one you get from AutoZone for $10 that you use to fill your differentials. Functions like a soap dispenser. Worked fine. I exchanged exactly 12 quarts. I intentionally overfilled about 1/2 quart and then let it exit via the overfill plug.

FWIW my A/T Temp Light on my dash remained 'on' for at least 10 minutes, indicating I was in the proper temperature zone to execute the overfill plug removal process. I was worried it was going to only be on such a short time that I would have to rush the process, but that wasn't the case.



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To clarify, I turned the vehicle on for 20ish seconds (until I drained about 2 quarts into a milk jug). Then I used the pumper to add 2 quarts through the return line described above (rather than into the tranny fill hole). The piece of hose attached to my pumper fit perfectly inside the tranny cooler return hose.


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Always many ways to get the job done -- just have to be creative!

Though it's subjective, how is your AT liking the new fluid (and what fluid did you use)?

Haven't driven it yet. I used genuine Toyota WS fluid. Got it on eBay a lot cheaper than thru the dealer.


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Thanks for the great info and links.

I'm coming up on 90K miles on my 2007 SR5 and I'm thinking ahead to changing the tranny's fluid. I'm planning on using the lines at the cooler.
To my knowledge, the fluid has never been changed. I'm debating whether or not I really want to drop the pan to change the filter. I need y'all to convince me to do it. I'm assuming the pan gasket will have to be changed when it happens.

Great writeup. Especially warthogs post #39 on page three. Exactly what I needed to get parts wise on my fluid flush and pan cleaning. I had a 2007 sport AWD with just over 101k miles. From what I can tell the one owner in denver before me gave it an easy commuter life so no towing. Clearly had never been changed as I couldn't find a paper trail in the maintenance records plus my fluid looked like badly used motor oil. So it was much needed. I was also experiencing rougher than what I thought was acceptable shifts from 4 to 5 under load uphill. Especially when on cruise at 80. Shifts butter smooth now...I assume close to when it was new.

I used Toyota WS fluid. It's the transmission so my opinion is just use oem since it is such a sensitive piece of equipment. Otherwise I don't mind using aftermarket fluids.

I also replaced the strainer. Well worth the 40$ in my opinion. Inside of my pan had a thin film of sludge especially around the 4 magnets. No big metal particles which I'm happy about.

Used 13.5 quarts all in all.

Took about 25 minutes to go from cold to temp check range as it was 30degrees ambient outside.

2007 also has the moved exhaust crossover so no need on that year or later for removing the crossover when doing the pan drop.

The fortech link in here somewhere is also a good idea to look at for the process.

Best way to warm up the fluid without taking all day is to put the transmission in drive, hold the brake, and run the engine up to 12-1500 rpm or so while you monitor the temp with Torque Pro, Scangauge, etc. The stalled torque converter will warm the fluid right up. Then you can put it back into neutral for a minute or so to make sure the temperature evens out throughout the transmission.

Just bought mine and figured out it had the sealed tranny. Got an 08 with 160k and no idea when/if it had been serviced. Called the dealership where I got it and the mechanic said he wouldn't worry about it if there's no leak. I don't like that answer. I at least want to check the color and level of the fluid. Maybe do a drain and fill with 4qts?

So had a P0977 error, decided to do a quick drain and refill ops, without dropping the pan. Tried the wire jumping method, and AT light stayed solid immediately and started flashing after about 8mins.
I used an elm bluetooth obd scanner and Motordata obd software to track the temperature as well.
The scanner read 115.27, the moment the AT light started flashing, and 98degF at the start of the process, hence i now understand why the AT light was solid from the getgo.

Will be using the bt scanner alone in the future.

Old vs new fluid

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