07-31-2009, 01:52 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: SoCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ3Flyr
DAMMIT!
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X2
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ3Flyr
It was a great post. We recently did a major software upgrade and many posts got clipped. I don't know if Mike's around anymore but I'll try to rebuild this over the next day or two...
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I just PM'd him, and I loved the old system cause you could see when their last time online was, but this new one doesn't. I really hope he's still around, or that this is recoverable.
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07-31-2009, 02:51 PM
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#17
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Metro ATL & Cape Coral, FL
Age: 59
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Super Moderator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
X2
I just PM'd him, and I loved the old system cause you could see when their last time online was, but this new one doesn't. I really hope he's still around, or that this is recoverable.
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I used my 'Super Moderator' powers to look at his info. I was able to see an email. I emailed him and I saw he was last on late 08
Mike did email me back. He's looking for pics etc from his old computer. Hopefully he'll be able to put something back on the first part of this thread.
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Chris
07 Salsa SR5, 4wd Cyclone pre-cleaner , Aux Transmission Cooler, Hidden Hitch 70779 (600/6000lbs, WDH=730/7300lbs), AirLift 1000, FJCruiser front springs (& now rear too!), Axle Vent Mod, Swaybar Bushing Upgrade, V6 Tick Reduction, VSC off mod, Maplight Mod, 255/75/17 Goodyear Wrangler SAs, Tailpipe Mod
Last edited by CJ3Flyr; 08-10-2009 at 03:29 PM.
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08-07-2009, 08:02 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Hickory NC
Age: 53
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Does anyone have the torque specs for the tranny pan?
2004 V6 4spd
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08-07-2009, 10:38 PM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair944
Does anyone have the torque specs for the tranny pan?
2004 V6 4spd
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20lb-f for the drain plug, 65in lb-f for the pan bolts from the 2003 FSM for the A340 (both the 2wd and 4wd versions).
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Chris
07 Salsa SR5, 4wd Cyclone pre-cleaner , Aux Transmission Cooler, Hidden Hitch 70779 (600/6000lbs, WDH=730/7300lbs), AirLift 1000, FJCruiser front springs (& now rear too!), Axle Vent Mod, Swaybar Bushing Upgrade, V6 Tick Reduction, VSC off mod, Maplight Mod, 255/75/17 Goodyear Wrangler SAs, Tailpipe Mod
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08-08-2009, 03:23 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Hickory NC
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Thanks Chris,
Do u fly a CJ3?
I drive a Be40 & CL601
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09-21-2009, 01:10 PM
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#21
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I wonder if the Mike's DIY writeup has been recovered?
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09-22-2009, 09:03 AM
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#22
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JB.
Doubtful anyone will believe I have any character flaws , but I do have one: I am a
However, this flaw comes in handy from time to time.
In the next post is Mike's excellent writeup, re-created as faithfully as possible.
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Thanks JB! You are the Man!
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10-11-2009, 10:10 AM
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#23
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Nice write up. I'm signing off and headed outside for my tranny service.
Thanks again.
John
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10-13-2009, 09:49 AM
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#24
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2wd
Does this apply to an 05 2wd drive also?
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10-13-2009, 11:17 AM
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#25
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishin
Does this apply to an 05 2wd drive also?
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Yes but you need to read the Sticky at the top Maint section for transmission servicing. The fill and level check procedure is a bit different for the '05 but the rest applies.
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Chris
07 Salsa SR5, 4wd Cyclone pre-cleaner , Aux Transmission Cooler, Hidden Hitch 70779 (600/6000lbs, WDH=730/7300lbs), AirLift 1000, FJCruiser front springs (& now rear too!), Axle Vent Mod, Swaybar Bushing Upgrade, V6 Tick Reduction, VSC off mod, Maplight Mod, 255/75/17 Goodyear Wrangler SAs, Tailpipe Mod
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03-18-2010, 10:05 AM
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#26
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Comments
Since I had found Mike's write up on the tranny service, I thought I would share my experience with that service, which I performed over the weekend. First of all, his write up is basically very accurate and I executed his steps almost exactly (except for the beer part). But I ran into a couple of issues, only one of which was a bit difficult. I will say right off that I am very handy. I've done plenty of auto work over the years and lots of home improvement as well.
1) I put a big plastic tarp underneath the car to catch any fluid that came out and missed the drain pan for some reason. Trust me, there was some.
2) Dropping the tranny pan - This turned out to be rather difficult. Granted, my 4runner is a 2000 and it is now 10 years old (60K miles), but that gasket sealer between the pan and the tranny case wansn't easy to get thru. After removing all of the bolts, I had to resort to using a putty knife (I know, not the best thing) and a hammer. It took me a while to get all the way around 2 edges of the pan (drivers side & rear). I couldn't really get to either the front edge or the passenger side edge due to obstructions (frame, etc). So then I just kept working and bending the knife until I got it free. This took some patience. Do not use a screw driver for this or you might bend the pan at the gasket line. I looked over the case to be sure there was not marring/scarring, and it was fine.
3) The bolt holding the upper section of the dipstick tube is 12mm and angled down slightly. It took me forever to figure this out since you can't see the bolt, you just have to feel for it. It doesn't matter how much light you have, the view is completely obstructed. This irritated me, so hopefully having this information will prevent you from becoming irritated. I had to use a step stool to actually be able to reach in there and get that bolt off. Geez...
4) Once I had the pan off, I could not get it clear of the frame (WTF?). I saw in Mike's picture that he cleared it, but I have no idea how he did it. I had to move it all the way to the side (driver's side), remove the filter/screen, to allow enough clearance to then free the pan from the frame. Not too big of a deal, but noteworthy nonetheless. Maybe Mike's 2002 allows enough clearance for this without removing the screen, but not on my 2000.
5) Patience is required in grinding all of the gasket sealer off the pan and tranny case.
6) My strong advice would be to get the gasket lined up on the pan and push all of the screws into the gasket from below the pan while the pan is still off the truck. You will never get this done from underneath...don't ask me how I know this. I used a Beck Arnley filter/gasket kit which has a rubber gasket. It worked out very well since the rubber gasket holds those bolts very snugly and they won't fall out. I also did use Loctite 242 thread lock for the bolts according to Toyota. Probably doesn't matter much, I just did it to be safe. I have never known anyone to actually do this, including a very reputable local transmission shop.
7) I know that the torque spec on the pan bolts is 65 ft-lbs or so (maybe 69), but I was not comfortable with that much torque. When I got to 40, I could see the gasket getting crushed in there, so I actually stopped shy of 40. I have checked it over the course of a few days for leaks and nothing so far. I am thinking that the spec is based on having the permatex style sealer rather than a gasket. Maybe I am wrong and should go to 65, but that just seemed like way to much for me.
8) I now know what Mike was referring to with filling the dipstick tube slowly. It's not that the funnel will fill up and slowly go down. While this is true, it's not really the issue. The issue is that the new fluid will seep out of the seam between the upper and lower sections of the dipstick tube. I discovered this when I found a small puddle of new fluid under the truck after filling. Since you have to break the seal between the upper and lower sections of the tube, fluid will leak from there during the fill process, unless you pour REALLY slowly. This would take forever, so just put a pan under there and fill as fast as the funnel will take it. You won't lose that much new fluid.
All in all, Mike's directions were dead on. This took me a lot longer than 2 hours though, but I took my time to make sure I didn't mess anything up since I am a perfectionist. Probably took me more like 3 1/2 hours total, including cleanup. Two other things...check the fluid over the course of a day or two. Mine appeared full for the first several miles, but after 10 miles, it dropped a bit. Lastly, I did this with only jacking up the front driver's side. I didn't even have the tire all the way off the ground to fit under there with a creeper, but I'm a thin guy. As always, I used a jack stand...don't do this with just a jack.
Hope this helps.
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03-18-2010, 11:33 PM
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#27
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Metro ATL & Cape Coral, FL
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Metro ATL & Cape Coral, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkoneus
Since I had found Mike's write up on the tranny service, I thought I would share my experience with that service, which I performed over the weekend. First of all, his write up is basically very accurate and I executed his steps almost exactly (except for the beer part). But I ran into a couple of issues, only one of which was a bit difficult. I will say right off that I am very handy. I've done plenty of auto work over the years and lots of home improvement as well.
1) I put a big plastic tarp underneath the car to catch any fluid that came out and missed the drain pan for some reason. Trust me, there was some. Awesome tip
2) Dropping the tranny pan - This turned out to be rather difficult. Granted, my 4runner is a 2000 and it is now 10 years old (60K miles), but that gasket sealer between the pan and the tranny case wansn't easy to get thru. After removing all of the bolts, I had to resort to using a putty knife (I know, not the best thing) and a hammer. It took me a while to get all the way around 2 edges of the pan (drivers side & rear). I couldn't really get to either the front edge or the passenger side edge due to obstructions (frame, etc). So then I just kept working and bending the knife until I got it free. This took some patience. Do not use a screw driver for this or you might bend the pan at the gasket line. I looked over the case to be sure there was not marring/scarring, and it was fine. Makes sense... Mikes write-up was based on a 1st year 4th gen (03). Maybe that explains some of the differences.
3) The bolt holding the upper section of the dipstick tube is 12mm and angled down slightly. It took me forever to figure this out since you can't see the bolt, you just have to feel for it. It doesn't matter how much light you have, the view is completely obstructed. This irritated me, so hopefully having this information will prevent you from becoming irritated. I had to use a step stool to actually be able to reach in there and get that bolt off. Geez...
4) Once I had the pan off, I could not get it clear of the frame (WTF?). I saw in Mike's picture that he cleared it, but I have no idea how he did it. I had to move it all the way to the side (driver's side), remove the filter/screen, to allow enough clearance to then free the pan from the frame. Not too big of a deal, but noteworthy nonetheless. Maybe Mike's 2002 2003allows enough clearance for this without removing the screen, but not on my 2000.
5) Patience is required in grinding all of the gasket sealer off the pan and tranny case.
6) My strong advice would be to get the gasket lined up on the pan and push all of the screws into the gasket from below the pan while the pan is still off the truck. You will never get this done from underneath...don't ask me how I know this. I used a Beck Arnley filter/gasket kit which has a rubber gasket. It worked out very well since the rubber gasket holds those bolts very snugly and they won't fall out. I also did use Loctite 242 thread lock for the bolts according to Toyota. Probably doesn't matter much, I just did it to be safe. I have never known anyone to actually do this, including a very reputable local transmission shop.
7) I know that the torque spec on the pan bolts is 65 ft-lbs ????? or so (maybe 69), but I was not comfortable with that much torque. When I got to 40, I could see the gasket getting crushed in there, so I actually stopped shy of 40. I have checked it over the course of a few days for leaks and nothing so far. I am thinking that the spec is based on having the permatex style sealer rather than a gasket. Maybe I am wrong and should go to 65, but that just seemed like way to much for me.
8) I now know what Mike was referring to with filling the dipstick tube slowly. It's not that the funnel will fill up and slowly go down. While this is true, it's not really the issue. The issue is that the new fluid will seep out of the seam between the upper and lower sections of the dipstick tube. I discovered this when I found a small puddle of new fluid under the truck after filling. Since you have to break the seal between the upper and lower sections of the tube, fluid will leak from there during the fill process, unless you pour REALLY slowly. This would take forever, so just put a pan under there and fill as fast as the funnel will take it. You won't lose that much new fluid.
All in all, Mike's directions were dead on. This took me a lot longer than 2 hours though, but I took my time to make sure I didn't mess anything up since I am a perfectionist. Probably took me more like 3 1/2 hours total, including cleanup. Two other things...check the fluid over the course of a day or two. Mine appeared full for the first several miles, but after 10 miles, it dropped a bit. Lastly, I did this with only jacking up the front driver's side. I didn't even have the tire all the way off the ground to fit under there with a creeper, but I'm a thin guy. As always, I used a jack stand...don't do this with just a jack.
Hope this helps.
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Great info! Thanks for taking the time to type it out. Mike has an '03 which probably changes things a bit. the other thing is 65ft/lbs???? Maybe in/lbs???? 65 is WAY too much for pan bolts...
Very helpful, great write-up, thank-you
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Chris
07 Salsa SR5, 4wd Cyclone pre-cleaner , Aux Transmission Cooler, Hidden Hitch 70779 (600/6000lbs, WDH=730/7300lbs), AirLift 1000, FJCruiser front springs (& now rear too!), Axle Vent Mod, Swaybar Bushing Upgrade, V6 Tick Reduction, VSC off mod, Maplight Mod, 255/75/17 Goodyear Wrangler SAs, Tailpipe Mod
Last edited by CJ3Flyr; 03-18-2010 at 11:41 PM.
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03-22-2010, 10:00 AM
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#28
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Hey there...I just double checked the specs on those pan bolts and you are correct...65 in-lbs, NOT ft-lbs. Very important distiction and thanks for that clarity. I would say that I probably have mine too tight though I know I was nowhere near 65 ft-lbs, but I only used a short 3/8 socket wrench with an extension, so I think I am probably ok. I checked it again over this past weekend and no leaks, so I'm not touching it. It's probably a good thing for me that the Beck Arnley kit came with a rubber gasket.
The other thing I noticed was Mike's picture of the dipstick tube from above the hood. The bolt on his is easily visible from above...not so on the 2000. Just another one of those slight differences.
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06-07-2010, 12:29 AM
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#29
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Safe to assume this will be about the same for the 5-speed tranny?
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2006 GX470 Sport
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06-07-2010, 07:08 AM
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#30
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Metro ATL & Cape Coral, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kylebacc
Safe to assume this will be about the same for the 5-speed tranny?
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Yes, very similar! Read this post/response. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/570946-post2.html It'll help with which line to pull. The rest of Mike's procedure will be virtually identical even though his is a V6/4sp.
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Chris
07 Salsa SR5, 4wd Cyclone pre-cleaner , Aux Transmission Cooler, Hidden Hitch 70779 (600/6000lbs, WDH=730/7300lbs), AirLift 1000, FJCruiser front springs (& now rear too!), Axle Vent Mod, Swaybar Bushing Upgrade, V6 Tick Reduction, VSC off mod, Maplight Mod, 255/75/17 Goodyear Wrangler SAs, Tailpipe Mod
Last edited by CJ3Flyr; 06-07-2010 at 07:14 AM.
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