Read that one first. It lead me to this one thanks as always Chris!

After doing this on my '03 V8 4x4 last weekend, I realized Mike's write-up was for a V6 with the 4 speed auto. There are a couple of significant differences that might be useful before you attempt.

1) The most significant difference is exhaust routing. This is probably more a function of the V8 versus V6 than trans differences. On the V8, the exhaust crossover pipe runs directly under the middle of the trans pan. There is simply no way to drop the pan without first removing this crossover pipe. There's only about 1" clearance between the pipe and pan and the pan is boxed in on all sides by something...drive shaft/trans bell housing/frame cross member/main exhaust tube.

The crossover pipe only needs 2 bolts/2 nuts to remove. You'll need a 14mm deep well socket for the driver's side nuts. This was my first stumble because I found it on a Friday night after the stores had closed and after the fluid was already drained. I didn't have a 14mm deep well.

I would also recommend using some penetrating lube before attempting to remove...these things have been heat cycled quite a bit. I still managed to break an exhaust mounting stud when reassembling...think some debris got into the threads and wouldn't let the nut go either way until I brought in the breaker bar, which snapped the stud...fortunately still leaving enough for reassembly. The exhaust tubing is held under tension so you'll need a bit of muscle to get the crossover reinstalled.

In addition to the deep well socket, you'll want to have some bungee cords or similar before you remove the crossover. The driver's side has an O2 sensor in the downpipe. I couldn't easily determine how to unclip the sensor's electrical harness. I opted instead to susped the crossover using bungees, simliar to suspending a brake caliper when replacing pads/rotors.

2) The dipstick tube doesn't mount to a head bolt like the V6. The trans tube is bolted to the oil dipstick tube...not sure what supports the oil tube. Maybe it's cast into the block? Anyway, the bolt holding the upper trans tube faces down. You can't reach it from the engine bay. I could get a 24" socket extension with U-joint onto it from below, but wasn't sure I'd be able to reinstall it. Looks like you really need to remove the wheel and wheel well liner to do it right. I opted to try to drop the pan without removing it.

When reinstalling the pan, you'll find the upper trans tube is about an 1" from where you want it. You have to flex it back into position, while maneuvering the pan around the valve body and back into place. I put the dipstick back in and used it as a guide to help on the reinstall.

3) If you let it drain over night (remember that missing deep well socket), you'll end up putting back in 6 quarts of T-IV. The trans will drain for a while and stop. Let it sit until it cools, assuming you started the drain on a warm trans, and then something burps, probably the torque converter. Found the evidence the next morning as I'd move the catch pan to catch the drips while I tried to figure out the crossover pipe. Based on "evidence" found the next morning, the pan was out of position when the trans burped. :-)

4) Practice installing the pan without hitting anything before you do it for real if you're using the FIPG. My service counter kept saying that's what they used and the computer didn't show a regular gasket for my VIN. Somehow the computer suddenly showed that gasket when I found one installed from the factory on my truck, but by then I had dropped the pan and couldn't wait for the fiber gasket to be ordered.

Lesson learned. Apparently, you can easily damage the shift solenoids when dropping the pan. DAMHIK. When reinstalling the pan (and practicing), I know I made some contact with the valve body, but I didn't think it was that hard. Upon startup, I immediately got a CEL. Code turned out to be P0778, shift control solenoid SL2. Either I pinched/disconnected the wire going to SL2 or actually damaged SL2 with the pan to valve contact. Of course, it's also possible the valve was already marginal and being allowed to dry out for some 36 hours was enough to finish it off. Currently waiting for an SL2 to come in, but I'm letting a local shop do the repair this time...it's too hot here for one thing, and I'd rather not risk breaking something again or fight with removing the FIPG. At least it didn't leak after reinstalling. :-)

-Brent

My '06 4runner's transmission shifts pretty rough when I'm slowing down and stopping in particular. It mat sit there for 10 secs and then change gears. What should be done? Is this what may happen if tranny fluid is low or needs to be changed?

very possible. At the very least confirm the fluid level is correct.

Unlike the V6 guys, we don't have to go fumbling around under the vehicle to find the cooler return line if you want to do a cooler line flush. To make it easy for anyone looking to do this, here's the correct connection point for the factory installed external trans cooler. Use 3/8" ID tubing, same as for the coolant block drains.

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My mother has a 2004 v6 sr5 2wd. I am also gonna do the tranny flush. Her car is in very good condition. Never towed anything at all. Has 60k and tranny fluid never been changed. I have done most of the oil changed with mobil 1 syntec. My question is, Do i really have to do a complete flush on it? I am thinking just draining the fluid and replacing the filter.

I have been calling 3 dealers and they keep telling me you don't have to change the filter on the 2004 4runner 6cylinder. They told me that is just a metal screen and you can take it out and wash it. I was looking at auto parts store and autozone has a filter kit with gasket for $28. Dealer wants $70+$30 for gasket maker.

BTW, Can someone tell me how many quarts should i buy when just draining the fluid and replacing the filter. I am not gonna do a flush.

I don't know that I would even bother dropping the pan and cleaning the screen. I would more or less just drain and refill a couple times and leave it at that.

How about the torque on the pan bolts for a 4wd if you have a 2.7 liter, 4 cylinder 3RZ-FE engine. I'd like to guess that 65 in/lbs is the same here. The pan has 19 bolts and is rectangular in shape as seen from below and mounted as normal. Is there an official repair manual I can buy rather than going with a Haynes I could pick up at any auto parts store. I feel those manuals are not as informative as a shop manual you could find at a stealership.

I followed Mike's drain, flush and refill process on my 2005 V6 Limited and it worked like a champ. I then found myself obsessing over the ATF fluid level. I did the jumper trick to get the A/T Temp correct and made sure there was a trickle coming out of the check plug, so it 'seemed' I had a 'good enough' level. But in my experience, most transmissions are very sensitive to the ATF level. Just a little too much or a little too little and the car will drive differently.

So my question is, when I'm stopped on a downhill slope, then accelerate, it seems to take a few seconds longer for the transmission to change gears. Would that mean I have too much or too little ATF? Does anyone know any performance checks to tell if ones transmission has too much or too little ATF?

I just bought my second used 4runner last week. I just did the flush on my new 04 v6 2wd. Followed Mike's instructions and it worked great. The Dealership quoted me $597.00 to do the job and thats without changing the filter (they said you dont have to change it due to it being a screen) I paid $105 for 16 quarts of toyota type t-iv tranny fluid and $31 for the filter/gasket from Advanced Auto. Overall I saved a ton of money doing it myself and am quite content with the outcome. Its awesome watching the fluid being flushed out one quart at a time changing from brown to red... Ill never pay to have this done again. well worth the effort.

I was going to replace my trans filter until I saw that the previous owner of my 98 SR5 had used silicon to seal the drain plug, and got a little worried. I was wondering if the oil drain plug and the trans drain plug were the same threads, I can't seem to find a new one at advance auto, but I also may just buy a used pan from a junk yard otherwise. Thanks for the help, and I appreciate the write up!

Hi,

I have a 2004 toyota 4 runner and need to replace my tranny fluid. Should i do a simple drain and fill or do a flush? Which is better for my truck? IF i do a drain and fill, how many quarts would i need to do the job? Any pics and instructions would be great. Thanks

My 04' V6 has 124,000 miles on it so this is definitely on my to-do list. I'd much rather do this myself rather than paying someone $300+ but am a little worried about dropping the pan. I am mechanically inclined and do most the maintenance on my truck (differentials, coolant, power steering flush, brakes, etc) but for some reason this seems more intimidating. Is it necessary to change the filter or could I just get away with draining/refilling the trans pan and then flushing through ATF line like in Mikes writeup? Any input (or encouragement) from those who have done this would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I'm I too late to reply?
Most likely.

Do you have to drop the pan?
No. Main benefit of dropping the pan is inspecting the condition of the pan magnets, and replacing or cleaning the filter screen.

Is dropping the pan more work?
Absolutely. If I was torn between dropping the pan, etc. or just flushing the fluid, I would base my decision on whether I was doing this project as preventative maintenance or if I was trying to correct a shifting issue.

Note* When I say "shifting issue" I'm talking about minor issues. Changing fluid on a problem tranny wont do much.