05-15-2009, 05:53 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Orange Co, NC
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Quote:
Originally posted by fishrod
Ah cool thanks.
Just trying to weigh up whether I should have a crack at this myself or just let the mechanic do it for ~$300. Dont have any Tools, or car stands. How important is the Torque specs when tightening the plugs? How do you measure that? With the tools im guessing.
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Torque settings are important on many places on a truck, including the wheels. Torque wrenches come in various ranges of price and accuracy, usually related. If you're not too particular, Sears, Home Depot, or Autozone probably has one that will get you close. You set the torque number you want to achieve, and tighten until you hear a "click" in the handle which indicates you have achieved the proper torque setting.
Here's the one that I got from tirerack.com...
As for jacks, you probably don't really need them to get under your truck...
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2012 4Runner Limited, Shoreline Blue Pearl / Beige leather, RCI skid, ext rear diff breather, Derale 13504 cooler, 110K
1993 300ZX Cherry Red Pearl with some bling, K&N intake, PowerTrix suspension, 130K
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05-29-2009, 04:21 PM
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#17
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Steamboat Springs, CO
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I need to do this service on my 4runner, and was wondering where everyone gets their oil and crush washers. I am sure I can get ahold of the gear oil locally, but the crush washers might be an issue. I live in BFE, so it is 100+ miles to the nearest dealer. Any suggestions on where to get the crush washers online. Part numbers might help me out.
Thanks... and thanks to the original poster for the pics, they are helpful.
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05-29-2009, 05:24 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Orange Co, NC
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Quote:
Originally posted by Routty
I need to do this service on my 4runner, and was wondering where everyone gets their oil and crush washers. I am sure I can get ahold of the gear oil locally, but the crush washers might be an issue. I live in BFE, so it is 100+ miles to the nearest dealer. Any suggestions on where to get the crush washers online. Part numbers might help me out.
Thanks... and thanks to the original poster for the pics, they are helpful.
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If you have an auto parts store nearby (Autozone, etc), they stock many different sizes of crush washers.
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2012 4Runner Limited, Shoreline Blue Pearl / Beige leather, RCI skid, ext rear diff breather, Derale 13504 cooler, 110K
1993 300ZX Cherry Red Pearl with some bling, K&N intake, PowerTrix suspension, 130K
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06-03-2009, 07:47 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Chicago
Age: 40
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Originally posted by Border411
PLEASE REMEMBER THESE TORQUE SPECS!
Just to fill in the gaps, the torque on the front diff should be:
Drain:48ft/lbs
Fill:29ft/lbs
Rear Diff:
Drain and Fill:36ft/lbs
This is per the Toyota Repair Manual.
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oh no! i completely forgot to come back and fill in the specs! i feel like the '08 might be a couple lbs different for some reason, but i'll re-check my manual to confirm. thanks for posting - OP is updated. 
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09-26-2009, 11:07 PM
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#20
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowbizx
A few pics and a quick write-up to help the first timers (like me!) out there. Please excuse the cell phone pictures.
Tools needed:
- 12mm & 24mm socket
- 10mm hex bit socket
- Ratchet/Breaker bar (torque wrench recommended)
- 3"+ extender
- 7 qts. gear lube
- Bottle pump
- Drain pan
Next was the transfer case:
Drain Plug - 24mm socket, 27 ft/lbs
Fill Plug - 24mm socket, 27 ft/lbs
Fill quantity - 1.5 qts.
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Snowbizx et al, thanks for this post! Great to have pics, tools, fluid capacities and torque specs all in one place.
Remember; 2 crush washers for each (minus oil drain pan of course...) -
Front Diff Drain
9043024003 (x2)
Rear Diff Drain
1215710010 (x2)
Transfercase Drain
9043018008 (x2)
Oil pan drain
9043012031 (x1)
One correction required; reverse the "Drain" an "fill" descriptions / colors on the transfer case they're backwards no biggie.
I don't post but this site is my bible and the members are GREAT!  I sincerely appreciate everyone's input everyone helps each other; rare these days... Adios!
Last edited by TallCool1; 09-26-2009 at 11:15 PM.
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09-27-2009, 01:37 AM
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#21
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: OHIO
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good info just have some questions...
i have a 02 sport 4wd with a center diff.. what exactley do i need to change? is there a front, center and rear that i have to change? what is a transfer case?
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09-27-2009, 07:23 AM
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#22
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: So. Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TallCool1
One correction required; reverse the "Drain" an "fill" descriptions / colors on the transfer case they're backwards no biggie.
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Reverse? Looks to me like the drain is low and the fill is high. What did I miss?
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09-27-2009, 11:41 AM
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#23
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 UGH my bad sorry the pic is correct 
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09-27-2009, 02:40 PM
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#24
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Super Moderator
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Great write-up and details.
I didn't see this mentioned, but ALWAYS remove the fill plug FIRST before draining the diffs. If the fill plug doesn't come off, stop there. You don't want to find yourself stranded on the driveway because the diff(s) have no oil in them.
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09-27-2009, 03:56 PM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uneek
I didn't see this mentioned, but ALWAYS remove the fill plug FIRST before draining the diffs. If the fill plug doesn't come off, stop there. You don't want to find yourself stranded on the driveway because the diff(s) have no oil in them.
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Agreed! This is a good general rule of thumb to follow when changing any fluid in your vehicle (including oil). The fill plug should come off first before the drain plug!
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10-06-2009, 05:38 AM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TallCool1
UGH my bad sorry the pic is correct |
No problem.
Thanks for the part numbers. Very useful.
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2005 Limited V8
Bilstein 5100 at .85
5th gen SR5 springs
BFG AT KO2 LT265/70/17 Load C (Replaced Revo 2 LT265/70/17 Load E)
Hanna sliders
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10-06-2009, 07:42 AM
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#27
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FYI: I did my rear diff and TC fluids this last weekend, for the first time in my life - piece of cake. Plan on doing the front diff sometime this week, you have to remove your skid plate though to get to it, so it takes a little more time, and it uses a 10mm hex key instead of the 24mm socket.
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02 Limited 4wd: Procomp MT's, Black Cragar Soft 8 wheels, 1.5 body lift, OME 891 rear coils, BudBuilt skid plate, 1" diff drop, custom made bumper, sliders, Rancho Quiklift system front and RS9000XL's rear, EBC pads and rotors, KC SlimLites, Smittybilt XRC8, 1.5 wheel spacers, SONY XPLOD double din cd/receiver with 280 watt spkrs.
"There is no hunting like the hunting of man, and those that have hunted armed men long enough, never care to do anything else." Ernest Hemingway
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12-08-2009, 10:08 PM
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#28
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quick question--- if you cant uncrew the drain and fill plugs ( stripped from being so rusty) can you still somehow get them out? i havnt tried it yet but they looked pretty rusty might just have a shop do it..
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12-09-2009, 07:09 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian32
quick question--- if you cant uncrew the drain and fill plugs ( stripped from being so rusty) can you still somehow get them out? i havnt tried it yet but they looked pretty rusty might just have a shop do it..
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Spray them real good with PB Blaster the day before and that should loosen them up. The one you have to be real careful on is the front diff. It is a hex key bolt and easy to strip out - ask me how I know. I had to take it to my local mechanic to chisel it out. Just make sure you do the fill plugs first, that way you don't drain it first and then find out you can't fill it due to not being able to get the fill plug out.
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02 Limited 4wd: Procomp MT's, Black Cragar Soft 8 wheels, 1.5 body lift, OME 891 rear coils, BudBuilt skid plate, 1" diff drop, custom made bumper, sliders, Rancho Quiklift system front and RS9000XL's rear, EBC pads and rotors, KC SlimLites, Smittybilt XRC8, 1.5 wheel spacers, SONY XPLOD double din cd/receiver with 280 watt spkrs.
"There is no hunting like the hunting of man, and those that have hunted armed men long enough, never care to do anything else." Ernest Hemingway
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12-09-2009, 11:09 PM
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#30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudbelly
Werd on that - I just did this today after reading this. Taking out the spare made plenty of room, and I found some pretty deep "rubs" in the sidewall of the spare (2 years in same spot); I would suggest rotating the spare tire on its holder every few months (looks like I need to replace this one).
I used Royal Purple 75/90 in the diff. Just drain out old, clean bolts, squirt in new. I must say that this task is even easier than changing the engine oil. Just fiddy bones for some sweet synth punkin' juice...
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I notice that too, but I seem to need to add air to the spare a couple times per year, so as I lower the spare, I spin it to avoid this........just a suggestion.
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