10-23-2017, 05:49 AM
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#316
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WOLVERINE
Keeping in mind that mine is a 2004 Sport V8 4wd that I use as a daily driver, for the front and rear axles I use 75w90, Redline has both options, for limited slip with friction modifiers and one without additional friction modifiers - I believe you want to use the standard - Amazon sells by the quart and gallon, Redline 75W-90NS is the standard without additional friction modifiers. It is a bit pricey, but it is quality lube.
If you are towing frequently, may want to stick with the 80w-90 (Hypoid gear oil API GL-5) or whatever is recommended in the manual for hotter temp. zones, SAE 90 I believe. *See Manual*
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price is no matter, this car is my moms and is a daily and she also doesnt tow
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10-26-2017, 02:05 PM
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#317
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Chicago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WOLVERINE
Check my post on page 15 of this thread, #214 I believe, you can use a hammer and chisel/drilling bit chisel as pictured to get it off....plenty of penetrating fluid helps.. make sure it is penetrating lube.
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Took some work and a few rounds of banging on it after spraying PB blaster, but it’s out and new fill plug, drain plug and oil is in. thanks for the help.
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10-26-2017, 02:35 PM
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#318
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: New Mexico
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Glad you made it work, anytime.
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New Daily Driver - 2006 4runner Limited Galactic Grey V8 4x4 -291K miles and counting - STOCK Driveline - New Audio Setup.
2007 Lexus GX470 - Stock, 56K miles - Sold
2004 Black Sport V8 4x4 - Made Limited- 141k miles Sold
2003 Grey Sport V8 4x4 - Sold - 1st 2UZ owned
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12-01-2017, 04:08 PM
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#319
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Seattle
Age: 33
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All gens?
Looks like your on a 4th gen? Will the instructions be identical for a 3rd?
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12-13-2017, 12:52 PM
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#320
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: NorCal
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Real Name: Brian
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Just did the drain and fill (first time doing it myself). Great write up OP - made it super easy to do.
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2006 Limited V8 in Titanium Metallic
Build and misc. adventure thread
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12-14-2017, 09:39 AM
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#321
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Just followed this myself. One question though. I have 105K on my 07 and the fluids came out crystal clear. I assume the previous owner had done a change some point recently. Can fluids with 100k still look new?
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2007 SR5 4x4.
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12-26-2017, 07:39 PM
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#322
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Join Date: Dec 2017
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Front differential help
Sr. Have you ever had to remove had experience in removing the whole front differential?
My problem is that i have gone thru three differentials and was told to remove the front driveshaft from the front diff to the transfer case and convert my 98 4runner to rear wheel drive. I was wondering if this would work?
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12-27-2017, 10:44 AM
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#323
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Join Date: Jun 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schamattack
Just followed this myself. One question though. I have 105K on my 07 and the fluids came out crystal clear. I assume the previous owner had done a change some point recently. Can fluids with 100k still look new?
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Possibly. Could be the rig wasn't abused.
Bought mine at 140k with no service history for the driveline. Front and TC came out still amber and light. Rear diff was pretty dark.
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02-19-2018, 05:38 PM
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#324
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Location: Pima County AZ
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Awesome thread. Answered so many questions. But I have failed to see anything (forgive me if there is, is may not have searched deep enough) about the logistics to support this drill. I changed my diff oil today, and a few things popped out at me and onto my garage floor, so I will post them here in the hope that it will help others. Is it probably garage 101 type stuff, but I have not done vehicle service for a long time in my garage/driveway and do not have the facilities of a professional garage and find like a great number of other folks, we find ourselves rolling around on the concrete floor or driveway and getting it done. And the little things help to make it that much easier.
1. Safety. Eye protection, Fire ext nearby. Any jacking or support equipment in good condition. Flashlight.
2. What to do with the old oil? Have several empty one-gallon jugs that you don't mind losing to put the old oil in. Have it ready before you begin to drain. Don't count on using the new bottles when empty. Drain the used oil off, using a large funnel, with each differential and transfer case, as you finish them. You don't want to juggle a full drain pan of that nasty stuff.
3. Rags, towels clean-up stuff. Yes, plenty this can be messy.
4. As I was not able to lift the truck up on stands or ramps, space was at a premium. I used quart bottles to pump the oil into the differentials. A gallon jug would not have fit.
5. Use a plastic tray or pan to put the oil bottles on during filling the differentials and another to put tools on. I had to vent the bottle as I filled the diffs and that da&n fill hose on the pump went everywhere, except where I wanted it to go, not to mention when changing out oil bottles. And when getting the oil overflow when full. A pan/tray would have contained the dripage.
6. I used a small plastic funnel and a short piece of ½" ID vinyl tubing to be able to transfer oil from the bottle into the rear diff. (This won't work on the front, gonna have to pump that one.) Make sure you don't overload the funnel and do this over a pan. A piece of tie-wire may help here. It is quicker than the bottle pump.Use the bottle pump to top up the final amount.
7. Spray brake cleaner or carb cleaner. To clean off tools, plugs and the area around the drain holes.
8. If you clean that area around the drain hole, you can see if is anything is leaking.
9. Old style cat litter open and on-hand to soak up spills, before it can get too deep into the concrete.
10. Buy enough oil plus some more. I now have to round up a qt of Redline to do the transfer case.
11. If you do stain the concrete this might help to clean up the stains.
A. Sawdust and solvent - wet saw dust with solvent and scrub stains with a push broom. Solvent will dissolve the oil and the sawdust will suck up the oil/solvent. DISPOSE CAREFULLY! IT IS FLAMMABLE!
B. Tide powder, broom and hose. Wet concrete, sprinkle with Tide powder and scrub with push broom.
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03-08-2018, 09:24 PM
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#325
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Rockies CO
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T case
My thoughts on the transfer case specifically. I have a 2016 4Runner btw. For those that are anal retentive like me and the thought of the wrong fluid (75w-90) going into the t-case keeps you up at night. After much reading, I decided to put the OE 75w Toyota branded transfer gear oil. It takes Exactly 1liter. I replaced the diffs using the popular Mobil1 75w-90 1st. Therefore I was able to directly compare the fluids. The 75w Toyota fluid is much different. It is much “thinner” in viscosity and ran like water. The 2 different fluids are nothing alike. I feel that the Toyota fluid is the way to go! Nobody knows why the fluid is different,and for those of you who are like me, don’t agonize over it anymore and just use the right fluid. I am going to do it every 50k FYI.
I also used the kitchen can opener to open the can!
Torque 27ftlbs.
I also recommend the Motive power fill
https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...-1-gallon-tank
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03-08-2018, 09:39 PM
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#326
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fcbuff
My thoughts on the transfer case specifically. I have a 2016 4Runner btw. For those that are anal retentive like me and the thought of the wrong fluid (75w-90) going into the t-case keeps you up at night. After much reading, I decided to put the OE 75w Toyota branded transfer gear oil. It takes Exactly 1liter. I replaced the diffs using the popular Mobil1 75w-90 1st. Therefore I was able to directly compare the fluids. The 75w Toyota fluid is much different. It is much “thinner” in viscosity and ran like water. The 2 different fluids are nothing alike. I feel that the Toyota fluid is the way to go! Nobody knows why the fluid is different,and for those of you who are like me, don’t agonize over it anymore and just use the right fluid. I am going to do it every 50k FYI.
I also used the kitchen can opener to open the can!
Torque 27ftlbs.
I also recommend the Motive power fill
https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...-1-gallon-tank
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The "75" part refers to the viscosity, so technically they're identical assuming you're checking them at room temp (not full operating temperature). How did you compare the two oils? It may be a "fig newton of your immigration" (a figment of your imagination).
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2008 4Runner, V6 SR5 4x4: Front Setup: Icon 2.5 Ext. Travel coilovers, Camburg 1.25 uniball UCA; Rear Setup: 1.5 inch lift Eibach +15% stiffness, Icon 2.0 Remote Resi; ;FN FxPRO wheels 17x8, gloss gunmetal grey; BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 LT265/70R17 Load Range C
Shrockworks rock sliders, Husky-liners throughout, TRD Exhaust, Optima Yellowtop D27f, Rigid Dually Pro Spots mounted on CBI ditch brackets, Dynamatted doors and rear cargo area, hardwired 8500 X50 Radar detector, Homelink addition, Alpine ILX-W650 head unit with parking brake bypass, Ultragauge II, Silverstar Ultra lo-beam, OPT7 Hi-beam, Mobil1 synthetic in engine, both diffs and transfer case, Thule T2 Bike rack and Fatcat6 ski racks...
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03-09-2018, 05:17 PM
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#327
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
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Just did this. Thanks for the great info!
Back fill and drain were a ***** to get off.
Front fill and drain came off easy.
If you have a long torque wrench and working off the ground, forget about being able to torque the fill plug in the front differential. There is not enough room to operate with a long wrench. Even on ramps there was not enough room. I had to buy a second torque wrench that was of the 14" length variety.
Used 75w/90 Mobile 1 in both.
The smell of diff oil is how I imagine rotting dead bodies must smell like. It is near the top of the most foul smell I've ever encountered.
Last edited by r32; 03-09-2018 at 05:34 PM.
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04-23-2018, 12:59 PM
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#328
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Wethersfield, CT
Posts: 18
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Just changed my rear differential oil this weekend. It had 150,000 miles on it, it was black, smelled burnt, and there was metal on the drain plug. I filled it back up with AMSOIL 75W-90 using a hand pump made by AMSOIL. That pump makes your life so easy. Changing the rear differential oil has to be one of the easiest maintenance tasks you can do.
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2009 Limited V6 4WD, Tints 15 Percent Front, 5 Percent Back. Full racing exhaust in the works.
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07-24-2018, 07:59 AM
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#329
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Location: NC
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Super helpful, thanks.
I've used Redline gear oil in differentials of rwd cars before. Will probably use their 75w85 GL-5 gear oil when the time comes.
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07-24-2018, 01:32 PM
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#330
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Monroe, NY
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Real Name: Scramble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r32
Just did this. Thanks for the great info!
Back fill and drain were a ***** to get off.
Front fill and drain came off easy.
If you have a long torque wrench and working off the ground, forget about being able to torque the fill plug in the front differential. There is not enough room to operate with a long wrench. Even on ramps there was not enough room. I had to buy a second torque wrench that was of the 14" length variety.
Used 75w/90 Mobile 1 in both.
The smell of diff oil is how I imagine rotting dead bodies must smell like. It is near the top of the most foul smell I've ever encountered.
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A Dead body smells worse.
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'99 4Runner - 2.7L 3RZ, 5 Speed, 4.56 Gears - Lifted, Locked & Loaded - 166k Original owner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
'99 Limited - E-Locker- Stock (for now) - 233k 2nd Owner http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ted-build.html
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