4th gen specific---how is everybody accessing the front fill hex bolt?

With skid plates removed there should be no issue accessing that bolt.

I finally changed oil for 2 diffs and transfer case and thinking it's my turn to contribute something here.

Mine is 2010 4runner I believe it is 5Gen. I would like to say, Diffs and TC are exactly same as the picture showing on the first page of 4GEN if it is as described by OP. But, somehow dealer provided 6 gaskets there are 3 of them don't fit. What they give to me, based on receipt, same as the one listed here in first page. So, I had thought it is correct but they are not.

Dealer give to me 3 small, 2 middle, and 1 large (cooper). Due to the receipt, they are 12157-10010, 94030-18008 and 94030-24003.

When I doing the work, I noticed, other than the large cooper one for Front Diff drain, rest are same (or similar) middle size of gasket. None of 3 small can be put in.

I ends up reuse 3 of them for fill as I cannot drive out to purchase anything without my ride is ready. I am little worried if there is problem for reusing them. They call crash washer, and I am actually saw it is crashed when I wrench them in indeed. Should I get correct washer and redo the job?

Also, about using torque wrench, I know everyone suggest to use it as newbie sometimes just don't know what they are dealing with.

My last night experience was totally opposite.

I changed real diff first. After all old oil drained out, I put the plug back, set my be loved torque wrench to 36 which some one mentioned here. I turned and turned and waiting for the 'click' sound. The 'click' music didn't come out of it before I actually crashed "too much" the crash washer. I then realized I might tight it way too much. I headlight it and look at it, I saw crash washer was squeezed too much and one side had already extended to broken. It is not leaking yet. But I am worried.

So, last night, for all other plug, I forgot torque wrench, only used common sense. torque tight enough I think should be ok.

My friends later told me, I am using a large torque wrench which only accurate on higher setting even it has lower setting in the mark. Also since I set high value on it entire time (mainly used for change tires) when you just set it back to low setting, the spring inside doesn't addjust in time. That might be the reason why I didn't hear 'click'.

After all, I highly suggest to use your common sense, do not rely on some fancy tool. My torque wrench is very expensive so I trust it wrongly :-(

Torque wrench tip: Set torque about half of what is called for fastener (in your case of 36, set 18). If it fails to "click" you will know and less likely to overtighten or damage your treads. If it does click then set it up to spec (36) and finish the job.

Super simple and helpful post - thank you! I just did rear diff, TC, and front diff, in that order. It was easy and took about 2 hours in total.

Only a couple of thoughts to add about my experience:

• Sprayed every bolt with PB Blaster the day before, and had no problems getting them loose with a breaker bar today.
• The rear diff fill bolt was reverse threaded - counterclockwise tightened it. Strange.
• The front diff drain bolt was tough to get out, as it is so low and I could not get a good angle with my breaker bar, and could not break it free with a standard length socket wrench. Finally got it to break free at an awkward angle.
• Rear diff fluid had been replaced a few years earlier with the previous owner. It and the TC fluid were pretty clean. But the front diff fluid was literally like grease at the very bottom. The rest came out dirty and fluid, but the first little bit at the bottom dear the drain plug was THICK. Glad I got it changed.

2007 Rear Diff fill bolt should not be reverse threaded. If it is I suspect some one stripped it and repaired with left handed Helicoil or retreaded to the opposite side. Take that bolt out and look closely at your treads. This is not normal.

Just changed my front/rear diff and the transfer case yesterday with @papabeach walking me through step-step.

Thoughts:
Very easy maintenance, but have a ton of shop paper towels and cardboard to mitigate oil stains on the driveway. Overall, good learning experience but a messy job. Didn't find any metal shavings in any of the drain plugs, but the gunk that was caked up was disgusting. Bought 7 quarts of Mobil 1 75w 90 off Advanced Auto Parts for about $10/quart with free 3-day shipping.

The gunk on magnet is metal.

Attempted this yesterday on my front diff. My drain is seized. Drawing board

PB blaster spray and wait 2 days. Easy to remove after that unless someone stripped 10 MM hex inside that plug. GL

How does anyone torque the front fill plug if they can't put the vehicle up on ramps?

I'm trying to find a torque wrench that will hit 29lb-ft but can still reach the fill plug

ARGGGG

You have to use Toyota transfer case fluid. this is a special fluid that has additives to protect from wear.. has electricals in the case. viscosity is not the problem .... mobil synthetic does not have any of these additives..

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I torque these plugs @25ft lbs .. use a small torque wrench that I use for spark plugs and other low torque fasteners.

looking at the plug threads on toyota vehicle I did not agree with that torque spec.. too high IMO....

Nice!