Guys, I'm getting conflicting info on what I need for a FULL timing belt kit-

This is from 1sttoyotaparts.com (he seemed confused himself)

Water Pump 161005927583
Timing Belt 1356809070
Tensioner 1354050030
Idler pulley 135030F010
Tensioner Pulley 135050F010
Serpentine Belt 9091602585

Here is what a local Toyota dealer parts dept told me I need-

Hydraulic Tens 1354065010
Tensioner bearing 1350565040
Idler bearing 1350365010
Cam seal 9031142027 times 2
Crank seal 9031140222 (wrong part number, isn't coming up)

These two are not adding up- I do want to do the crank and cam seals- but anyone have a better listing than this??

I'm getting conflicting info on what I need for a FULL timing belt kit-

This is from 1sttoyotaparts.com-

Water Pump 161005927583
Timing Belt 1356809070
Tensioner 1354050030
Idler pulley 135030F010
Tensioner Pulley 135050F010
Serpentine Belt 9091602585

Here is what a local Toyota dealer parts dept told me I need-

Hydraulic Tens 1354065010
Tensioner bearing 1350565040
Idler bearing 1350365010
Cam seal 9031142027 times 2
Crank seal 9031140222 (wrong part number, isn't coming up)

These two are not adding up- I do want to do the crank and cam seals- but anyone have a better listing than this??

I'm getting conflicting info on what I need for a FULL timing belt kit-

This is from 1sttoyotaparts.com-

Water Pump 161005927583
Timing Belt 1356809070
Tensioner 1354050030
Idler pulley 135030F010
Tensioner Pulley 135050F010
Serpentine Belt 9091602585

Here is what a local Toyota dealer parts dept told me I need-

Hydraulic Tens 1354065010
Tensioner bearing 1350565040
Idler bearing 1350365010
Cam seal 9031142027 times 2
Crank seal 9031140222 (wrong part number, isn't coming up)

These two are not adding up- I do want to do the crank and cam seals- but anyone have a better listing than this??

IMHO 1st Toyota is steering you right... If you're good with oil changes I would do the seals at the 180k timing belt swap not the first one at 90k.

In my research it appears you are correct. But if I'm in there anyway, you see any reason to do the other items listed by my local dealer? Hydraulic tensioner, tensioner bearing, idler bearing?

I'm not fully understanding what all of these parts are....

the idler and tensioners i woulnt worry about unless there broke hydraulics tens dont usually go , they dont go often.
when it comes to t-belt i always change cam and crank seals. Ur in there anyway the parts arent expensive.

Sometimes pics are worth a thousand words. Have a look on the upper left corner of the first one for a general layout picture.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/g_U_200...-GKAGKA_1.html

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_200...AGKA_1302.html

I just changed my belt and water pump but did not change the tensioner or idler pulleys so I do not have the part number for them. I only have 45k on mine and only replaced because I was almost 7 years on the belt. The idlers felt fine and the tensioner showed no leakage. If I was a lot higher mileage I may have changed them.

I know nothing about these parts for your timing kit but....I would strongly suggest that you get the cam and crank seals. They should be very inexpensive and since you would just be putting the old ones back in place..might as well replace with new.

Bump.... Merged the three threads that were very similar...

The shopping list for 4.7 2UZ-FE timing belt change

--Needed

Timing belt - 13568-09070
Coolant super long life (need 3)- 00272-SLLC2

--Optional but recommended

Left Idler pulley - 13503-0F010
Right Idler pulley - 13505-0F010
Tensioner - 13540-50030
Serpentine belt - 90916-02586

Water pump - 16100-59275-83
Water pump gasket -
Cooling system O-ring - 96761-35035
Cooling system O-ring#2 - 96761-00103
Cooling system RTV - 00295-00103
Radiator upper hose -
Radiator lower hose -
Thermostat -
Thermostat seal -
Crankshaft seal -
Camshaft seals - (I believe you must remove the camshafts to change these, look in the TSRM)(I did not change them because that is a whole other can-o-worms)

--Always nice to have on hand

Toyota oil filters (taller than aftermarket purolator)
Crush washers for oil pan, rear diff, front diff, transfer case
air filter
cabin air filter

The tools needed

Torque wrench set good from 5 ft-lbs to 180 ft-lbs (I bought 2 CDI wrenches online, the 752mfrmh and 2503mfrmh after much research on brand quality)
10, 12, 14 mm wrenchs
10, 12, 14 mm deep 3/8 sockets with 3/8 ractheting wrench
3/8 socket extensions,about 3" and 5"
10mm allen head socket 3/8 or 1/2 (To remove timing belt idler sub-assembly)
22 mm deep socket 1/2
1/2 breaker bar at least 18" long
Locking chain wrench or -plumbers chain wrench with breaker bar-
Rubber to protect crankshaft balancer from chain wrench (I used an old bike innertube cut into strips, layer at least 3/8" thick)(To loosen crank bolt, I let the locking chain wrench put force on the thermostat housing and I put a good 1/2" of rubber to protect the housing)
Crankshaft harmonic balancer puller (I bought a set at harbor Freight for $15)
gasket scraper (for water pump change)
crankshaft seal punch/press (Can use 2" pvc pipe cut square with wood to hammer on center of pipe)
string or house wire to hang accessories
adjustable pliers for hose clamps
shop light
drain pan for coolant plus storage containers for old coolant
vacuum hose to drain coolant from engine drain plugs without making a mess
lots of vinyl or nitrile gloves

I believe from changing all idler pulleys and water pump that the new bearings reduced friction and helped gas mileage maybe up to 1 mpg. At 100K one idler pulley had rust on the indside lip and the other had dirt and grease covering the inside lip. Water pump wasn't leaking and looked fine, I replaced it anyway. I needed 2.2 gals of coolant because I drained the coolant from the engine as well, there are two engine drain locations, so coolant doesn't spill everywhere when removing the water pump and oil cooling hose. With 1/4" of rubber protecting harmonic balancer the locking chain wrench still put small dents on several of the "v" channels so use at least 3/8" or a thin peice of metal over the rubber. Luckily, the dents were small and didn't mess up the harmonic balance.

Follow the TSRM for timing belt and water pump change and torque all bolts to correct specs and you will be fine.

Awesome! Thank-you. Post added to sticky above.

Since I didn't do a walkthrough with pics here is the next best thing. But I would still follow the TSRM.

Tundra 4.7 (2uz) Timing Belt & Water Pump Replacement - YotaTech Forums

Its a walkthrough done on a 2000 Tundra with the non-VVTI 2UZ-FE. Everything is the same but the cam gears.


CJ3Flyr - I was thinking of asking for it to be a sticky but its already done!

Wish I had seen this thread earlier. We struggled mightily with our 89 MR2 crankshaft pulley bolt and then just after that- the pulley itself.

I had a feeling after we built a custom tool ourselves (pictured) that a steering wheel puller would accomplish the pulley removal. Thanks for the confirm.

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Paraordance is in the process of doing his belt. He found an awesome looking kit from Timing Belt Kit Pro on Ebay. Rather than posting a link that would expire I though I'd add this. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/570497-post9.html