I used PB Blaster tapped them with a hammer and let it penetrate. Used the jack handle as a breaker bar. If they are really frozen, hit them with some PB blaster and let them sit overnight. Hit them again in the morning and then give it a shot. They will eventually come loose.

Not trying to be a smarta$$, but are you sure you're trying to turn the bolts in the right direction? When working from the wrong end of a bolt, it's not unheard of to get the polarity reversed. There was even a thread explicitly asking which direction for the caliper bolts about this time last year. FWIW, the factory spec is only 91 ft-lbs and I had no trouble removing mine last year with an 18" breaker bar (only 12$ at your nearest Autozone), no penetrating lube required...didn't even think to turn the wheel on the first one to give myself better access. YMMV.

BTW, CCW will be towards the ground or front of the vehicle when you're facing the rotor assuming your tool handle is somewhere in the vicinity of the mudflap. Rotation is opposite the wheel lug nuts.

-Brent

Believe me I checked several times to make sure I was going the right way. They really were just that tight. I finally got them loose after I went to Lowes and picked up a 5 foot long piece of 3/4" conduit to slide over the end of the ratchet. Best $2.67 I ever spent. I cleaned the bolts off because they were definately pretty rusty, also cleaned out the holes in the bracket so hopefully I won't have an issue next time.

My new EBC pads came with an integrated shim, but do I still need to use the old ones? I am doing the sparks today, along with the brakes, and am not certain about this.

Elias

Sorry to be stealing your post, ducman, but I am doing my breaks today and have noticed that the calliper pins are a bit warped. PD Blaster and a mallet were able to get them out in 15 minutes, but should I be concerned? I have a new set form the dealer, but am worried that there might be another underlying issue here.

Well, I have a seized piston on the inner, lower caliper, for both the right and left brakes. Sucks to do this today as all the shops are closed for the holiday. I am attempting the rear now, which should go smooth.

Elias

Rear=Finished. It was incredibly easy. Now, all I have to do is pickup two 13WH calipers from Napa, and reattempt the front!

I used a breaker bar with a short piece of pipe on it for extra leverage. They were in there good.

I used Wagner thermo quite pads. They had the shim built in. I did not re use the factory shim.

I thought I had a sized piston as well. Turns out that I just wasn't turning hard enough. I put a pair of vise grips on my c clamp and my piston went in.

SO, I just did a break job and I have a few questions about which pad is which.

I think I matched the pads as they were in my car, but I noticed the new pads had an L on them and the Caliper had an R....and that doesn't seem kosher.

So here is a picture of the old pads, and how I think they were in my car...and how they are now in my car. IF they are wrong I haven't driven it so I can definitely switch them up before I break them in. Help is much appreciated

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The reason for marking some pads left/right has to do with the metal wear indicators on the pads. If installed on the pads, these wear indicators are designed to start making a squealing noise when the metal tab hits the rotor surface, indicating it is time to replace the pads. In most cases, these wear indicator tabs are supposed to be installed so they would make contact and be 'pulled' by the rotor when the vehicle is moving forward, not being 'pushed' by the rotor. In most cases, this means the outer and inner pads should have the wear indicators installed so they are at the bottom of the pad when mounted in the caliper if the calipers are mounted in front (toward front of vehicle) of the rotors, and if the calipers are mounted behind the rotors (toward rear of vehicle, then the pads would be mounted with the tabs on the top end of the pads.

Since the calipers on the 4Runner are mounted after the hub (behind the rotors), the wear indicators should be on the top of all pads, inner and outer.

Ok, so I got the RF wheel off the ground, truck on a stand and the wheel off in preparation for the new pads and rotors that should be in later in the week. A couple of questions:

I got the hawk ceramic pads; will the come with new pins and cotter pins? Or do I have to get the part numbers and head to the dealership?

Is there anything holding on the rotors besides the lugs and then friction? Nothing else to unbolt?

If I remember right, the 17mm caliper bolts are on the engine side of the hub. How did you get in there with the breaker bar?

I'm sure there are more questions to come.

TIA.

Part numbers for the pins, clips and M springs for future reference.

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Thank you for the sweet walk through on the brakes!

I wanted to hit the dealer this weekend but had little time so went to Napa today and got everything I needed including the pads. I always buy OEM but have heard great things about NAPA and the guys near me are great to deal with unlike my Toyota dealer.
Anyway, I have an 06 V8 SE and got the rotors and pads for like $260 + tax and they have a $50 dollar mail-in rebate until the end of September if you by over $250 in rotors, pads, calipers and other selected brake parts. The Pads are basically free if you go this route. I got the Adaptive 1 pads so we'll see after hearing good things about them. BTW, they do sell the pins and anti rattle clips as well at NAPA.

I have 48k on the clock, hopefully the calipers are cool when I do this job next week.....

Great group of people on this forum!!

I was able to get an 18" breaker bar in there to get the caliper bolts off. Course mine weren't stuck on super tight, so I didn't need a ton of room to crank on them. If you needed extra space, turn the wheel.

Ok. Front rotors and pads done today. First side: 1.5 hrs. Second side: 20 min.

Two questions:

1) I may have put the pad with the metal tab on the wrong side on one of the wheels. Big issue?

2) I got new pins, M springs, cotter pins and shims from the dealer. I didn't notice before install, but four of the shims are flat, and four are slotted. Well, one side got four flat shims and one side got four slotted. Is this a big issue?

Other than that, no problems. Road test and bedding later tonight.