skyline,

You are exactly correct. I went back and check the write-up it's for 1999 T4R. For 1GR-FE engine, only clean the TB.

Great Write up- The idle and response on my new-to-me 04 is much smoother now.

Dovetails well with a spark plug change, MAF cleaning, ECU reset, air filter change, and general cleaning of crud outta the engine bay. Gunna do my Tacoma soon...

What is the ECU reset? Is that the Check Engine Light? How do you reset it? Newbie here :-)

disconnect - battery term. for a few minutes, then reconnect, that reset it so it can start relearning again.

I did this 2 days ago along with cleaning the Mass Air Flow sensor, and if you are considering doing this I would highly recommend it. I have a 2007 4runner with 80k miles and it drives like a new car after cleaning the MAF and the Throttle Body. Acceleration is much better and it seems like the 4runner is shifting gears much smoother. I asked my wife to drive it just so I wasn't just over reacting to this but she also said it drives like a new car, hopefully it was because of the cleaning and not from the ECU reset. Thank you for the write up and again if anyone is thinking about doing the cleaning and you have high mileage, I would definitely consider doing this maintenance.

am doing this soon!...good write up

All was going well until one of my throttle-body bolts broke! Now I am wondering if my torque wrench (not an expensive one) is suspect. I had it set to 15 lbs. and it seemed like they were getting REAL tight so I am thinking I have a problem with the wrench. Other than that, my throttle-body was FILTHY and it looks ALOT better. The MAF looked very clean but I sprayed it with MAF cleaner anyway. Now I just have to wait for the bolts to come in. I am getting chummy with the local dealers parts department!

pls confirm that u can use the throttle body cleaner to also clean the MAF sensor

I bought both throttle-body cleaner and MAF cleaner. They are made by the same company. Only local store that carried both was O'Reily's. about $10-12 for both.

Bolts came in today so I buttoned her all back up. Runs great! I didn't drive it around too much as my wife wanted this dime in her suburban now but it does some more responsive and to shift better. On a side note, the job on my wife's Vortex was a lot easier. Her MAF was also a lot dirtier. Anyway, great write up and I am glad I did it. Considering Seafoaming it now but still reading up on it. I JUST installed iridiums so I want to make sure I do t mess them up!

So I did this and reset ecu. The problem I'm having is when I bought the truck when I cranked it I don't remember it starting up the rpms this high. Basically at start it goes up to 2k then slowly brings it down to about 1k-1200. It never really sits back below 1k until I put it in gear. Before this it would sit around 600-800. I don't really know if this is normal. My TB was filthy though and I did an ecu reset no cels or anything just seems like high idle.

Normal. Just did mine recently. Also installed a URD maf cal and same thing. Each time you reset the ecu, at least by disconnecting the battery, it'll jump. Take it down the street and it'll go back to normal.

Going to bring this thread back from the dead! Thanks to OP for this post. I have been meaning to do this for a long time. I had a day to myself, so what better to do than some vehicle maintenance!!! I followed the directions of the OP, but I decided to disconnect the coolant hoses so I could get the TB out of the engine bay and scrub it real good with a toothbrush. I was surprised, probably shouldn't have been, with the "gunk" on the back of the throttle body. Here are before and after pics. Total time of the diy was maybe 40minutes. Piece of cake. The car really does drive much better now. We'll see if I increase the fuel mileage or not.

I also just did a bad thing and broke one of the throttle body mount bolts. My wrench was set to 15lbs and it seemed like the bolt just kept spinning until it broke. I put a dap of anti-seize on so maybe that had something to do with it?

Anyways, I am in a bad spot because I don't have another car and am actually in Baja Mexico, about 2 hours south of San Diego. I have no idea how I am going to get a replacement bolt. Do you think I could safely drive the truck with only 3 of the 4 throttle body bolts in place? The other 3 bolts were spinning too and I didn't want to over tighten them and break them too. But is seems secure.

Did a lot of searching with no viable answers for my high idle after TB cleaning.

2008 4runner V6 116K mile:
- cleaned my MAF and dirty TB for the first time since I had a low idle after a battery replacement
- after several weeks of driving (and battery & EFI fuse disconnect/re-connect) still having high idle (1200-1300 in park and ~900 in drive). Also idles a lot higher when first starting it up cold (~1800rpm, think it used to be ~1400)
- did recheck all hoses, etc.. for any vacuum leaks
- checked the inside bore of the TB and don't see anything that is jamming/binding the butterfly to cause a high idle.

I didn't replace the rubber TB gasket but it doesn't look bad.

I cleaned the TB with the CRC fluid on a towel and wiped the inside of the TB really hard, wonder now if I might have taken some (alum) material off the inside of the TB to cause a wider open against the butterfly??

Any suggestions before I go for a new (refurbed) TB for about $100.

Thanks