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Old 02-21-2017, 05:49 PM #31
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is there a torque spec for installing the new plugs?
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Old 02-21-2017, 06:27 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grave View Post
is there a torque spec for installing the new plugs?
v6 (1GR-FE)
Service manual shows:

13 ft.lb for the spark plugs

66 in.lb for the ignition coils
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Old 05-26-2017, 04:24 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZebRuaj View Post
The "H" is for the longer plugs, which you need. The IK series are regular Iridium plugs, the SK series are Iridium plugs rated for long life.

Personally, I just stick to the Denso K20HRU11 copper plugs. The V6 is a tank and doesn't need anything special. My OEM plugs made it 140k before I changed it out when I bought the truck. I was also able to source all 6 for about a $1/ea. Yes they're only rated for 30k, but can easily go further, and getting under the hood periodically allows me to visually inspect the motor. They're also super easy to swap out, so win/win.



Try putting back new OEM copper plugs to see if it makes a difference
For what it's worth on an older thread, my gas mileage came back up to where it was pre-plug change after about 5 or 6 tanks of gas.
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Old 07-09-2017, 09:39 PM #34
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I remember some plugs need the 'anti seize compound. I already got the Denzos. Just need to know if I need to go back and get that. thanks
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Old 07-12-2017, 09:04 AM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ran View Post
I remember some plugs need the 'anti seize compound. I already got the Denzos. Just need to know if I need to go back and get that. thanks
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Read the box? I believe NGK's say not to because of the compound they use. I still add a dab of anti-seize on all plugs I replace. Just torque them in correctly because they are "wet" now instead of "dry".

I also add a dab of silicone - dielectric grease inside boot.
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Old 07-12-2017, 12:48 PM #36
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Thanks, not much on the box, but 'Made in Indonesia'. I thought it was NGK saying not. will pick up some now.
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Old 07-28-2017, 12:50 AM #37
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Ngk 7877

Ok, had to revisit this post cuz some of the guys on one of the Facebook groups had me scared thinking I put in the wrong plugs last week, even though I had the same NGK 7787's I'd put in 70K miles ago with no issues whatsoever! I've been going through multiple sites the past hour & finally decided I should check NGK directly. So yes, 7877's are fine direct OEM replacements. Whoo...that was exhausting!
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Old 07-28-2017, 10:05 AM #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nghiS4 View Post
So yes, 7787's are fine direct OEM replacements. Whoo...that was exhausting!
I went with Denso's .. but yeah, it pays to do your own research. Don't trust everything you see on FB. I rank research, forum knowledge, then FB knowledge.
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Old 05-23-2018, 09:57 PM #39
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Passenger side was easy, driver's side--how do the clips come off the coils?? Is is like the like the connector for the front lights??
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Old 05-29-2018, 10:39 PM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ran View Post
Passenger side was easy, driver's side--how do the clips come off the coils?? Is is like the like the connector for the front lights??
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I think they're exactly the same, if I recall correctly. Need to move a couple of hoses and a bracket to make it easier.
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Old 05-29-2018, 10:45 PM #41
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On the passenger side, I never unhooked the coils, driver's side, definitely needed that. First time on my truck, the NGKs where under there.
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Old 06-03-2018, 11:45 AM #42
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Here I went with Autolite Iridium XP5325. My reasoning is quality gap is surely narrowing; price point, Advanced Auto had 20% off online/store pick-up coupon; 0.6mm center electrode, some research revealed 4mm can wear faster, while performance of larger 5 or 6mm center electrode is not much different; platinum sidewire, seems others except NGK didn't have platinum sidewire. No check engine light yet, but time will tell if my savings pays off.

The old plugs were NGK R LFR6C, 4 gaps were .043 to .045, one gap was slightly larger and one slightly smaller, but they all looked normal at a glance. Probably didn't need changing except for the too narrow, glad I caught that. 2005 V6 with 295k.

An aside, before I knew better, I put Bosch Iridium's in my 2005 Camry 4cyl, 10k on them and no problems yet.
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Old 06-13-2018, 10:34 AM #43
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Replaced Spark Plug

Just replaced my spark plugs on 2007 V6. Passenger side was easier than driver side, but still not too bad. I did remove the top bolt and loosen the bottom bolt on the bracket cover the drive side so I could rotate it out of the way.

Make sure you have at least a 12 in extension but I even attached another extension on that to make it longer, and used electrical tape around the spark plug socket so it wouldn't slip off.

The ones I took out weren't bad, but looks like the previous owner didn't gap them. I gapped mine to the owner's manual specification of 0.43mm.
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Old 06-04-2023, 04:11 AM #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IK13 View Post
Looking at the Toyota maintenance schedule online I noticed that for this engine Toyota requires that the spark plugs are changed at 60K (bought it certified preowned at 34K, so I don't know if it was done at 30K).
Required by the terms of the Emission Control Warranty.

Well I'm at 65K, didn't change'em at 60K. Dealer serviced (oil changes at ~5K intervals). Didn't know and the dealer didn't bother to tell me (offered other nonsense though).
The car runs fine and I can't detect any signs that the spark plugs actually need change.
So, did I void my "Emission Control Warranty"?
The truck may run fine but the plugs are not gapped anymore at .043 at 60k.

I too was pushing 60k with some NGK 7787, but will swap out at 30k from here on out. The gap had eroded to .05+ on all of the old plugs.

The Coil on plugs and connectors are in great shape at 145k.

NGK 7787's are good, maybe not the best but solid in my book.
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Old 08-31-2023, 05:49 AM #45
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I am getting ready to replace my plugs and coils on my 4Runner. It has 200k on it
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