08-26-2010, 04:47 PM
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#1
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4th gen excessive brake pedal travel
Lately I have noticed that there is more travel than usual with the brake pedal. Also, the braking power is weaker than usual. This is something that has developed slowly over the past few months, not something that happened suddenly. The amount of pedal travel seems to vary as well which is annoying. There is no spongyness/softness to braking and I don't feel it pulling to one side.
Brake fluid level is fine. I have done about 35,000 miles (mostly highway) since the pads were last changed.
Any suggestions? I run out of warranty in 1,000 miles and hope to sort it out ASAP but am afraid the dealer will just tell me they work fine until the warranty is out.
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2003, Sport, V6, 4WD
Overland Warehouse/Radflo 2.0 suspension, SPC upper control arms
2016 Trail Edition w/KDSS
Icon Stage 2 suspension, BFG T/A KO2 285/70/17, C4Fab sliders
Last edited by Will_4R; 08-26-2010 at 05:08 PM.
Reason: spelling
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08-26-2010, 04:51 PM
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#2
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You might want to bleed the brakes. If you haven't done any kind of brake work, it shouldn't need to be bled, but I know that a "low" pedal can often result from air in the brake lines, even if it doesn't feel spongy at all.
Give it a shot...you have nothing to lose.
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08-27-2010, 08:44 AM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jed
You might want to bleed the brakes. If you haven't done any kind of brake work, it shouldn't need to be bled, but I know that a "low" pedal can often result from air in the brake lines, even if it doesn't feel spongy at all.
Give it a shot...you have nothing to lose.
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Bleed is different from flush though, right?
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2003 Titanium Sport Edition V6 4 Runner
It's not tailgating....it's called drafting. 
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08-27-2010, 09:24 AM
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#4
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The intention of bleeding is to get any trapped air out of the system. The intention of flushing is to remove old brake fluid and replace it with fresh fluid.
Both are basically performed the same way...but with flushing, you're running a lot more fresh fluid through the system than you typically do during bleeding.
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08-29-2010, 04:24 PM
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#5
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adjust the rear brakes (or have them adjusted)
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08-29-2010, 04:34 PM
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#6
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Jed: How would air get into the system? I have not done any work on the breakes so it wasn't that way. Maybe there there is some sort of leak (I don't appear to be losing fluid)?
Rix: what do you mean by adjust the rear brakes? And why just the rear? I have 4 wheel disc brakes, in case that matters.
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2003, Sport, V6, 4WD
Overland Warehouse/Radflo 2.0 suspension, SPC upper control arms
2016 Trail Edition w/KDSS
Icon Stage 2 suspension, BFG T/A KO2 285/70/17, C4Fab sliders
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08-29-2010, 11:58 PM
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#7
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OOPS.
forgot about the 4wheel disc thing.
That generation has been having some trouble with sticking calipers on occasion, might have a thurough (sp?) brake check done (NOT AT LES SCHWAB)
A good pressure flush of the brake system couldn't hurt...
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08-30-2010, 06:50 AM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will_4R
Jed: How would air get into the system? I have not done any work on the breakes so it wasn't that way. Maybe there there is some sort of leak (I don't appear to be losing fluid)?
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There really shouldn't be any air in the system if you haven't done any kind of brake work....but it is possible. Is your brake fluid level low in the reservoir?
Either way, it wouldn't hurt to bleed the brakes or even flush them if your fluid is old. I don't know if it will solve your issue, but it's a quick, easy, and inexpensive way to try.
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08-30-2010, 09:33 AM
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#9
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Excessive brake pedal travel means the front calipers are seizing. It's an issue with the 4th gens.
I just dealt with it. $650 for both.
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It's not tailgating....it's called drafting.
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08-30-2010, 09:38 AM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DC Dude
Excessive brake pedal travel means the front calipers are seizing. It's an issue with the 4th gens.
I just dealt with it. $650 for both.
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When my calipers were frozen, I didn't have any excessive brake pedal travel. In fact, I didn't even know they were frozen until I inspected them and noticed that the pads were wearing unevenly.
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08-31-2010, 06:06 PM
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#11
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Took it into the dealer and just got the diagnosis:
Pistons are starting to stick on all four corners, as well, the pads and rotars are wearing thin and need to be changed. Luckily my warrenty, which expiers in a few hundred miles, covers bran new (not reman) calipers. He said the sticking pistons are a very common problem on the 4Runners (but not their other vehicles).
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2003, Sport, V6, 4WD
Overland Warehouse/Radflo 2.0 suspension, SPC upper control arms
2016 Trail Edition w/KDSS
Icon Stage 2 suspension, BFG T/A KO2 285/70/17, C4Fab sliders
Last edited by Will_4R; 08-31-2010 at 06:08 PM.
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09-02-2010, 08:12 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will_4R
Took it into the dealer and just got the diagnosis:
Pistons are starting to stick on all four corners, as well, the pads and rotars are wearing thin and need to be changed. Luckily my warrenty, which expiers in a few hundred miles, covers bran new (not reman) calipers. He said the sticking pistons are a very common problem on the 4Runners (but not their other vehicles).
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Sounds like you'll only have to pay for pads and new rotors.
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It's not tailgating....it's called drafting.
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09-02-2010, 08:28 PM
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#13
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yup, that is right. About $800 in parts and labour and tax.
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2003, Sport, V6, 4WD
Overland Warehouse/Radflo 2.0 suspension, SPC upper control arms
2016 Trail Edition w/KDSS
Icon Stage 2 suspension, BFG T/A KO2 285/70/17, C4Fab sliders
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09-02-2010, 08:30 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will_4R
yup, that is right. About $800 in parts and labour and tax.
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That sounds high.
I used a brake service/pad replacement dealer coupon for $85. Changing rotors shouldn't cost that much...estimate worst case $200 each.
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2003 Titanium Sport Edition V6 4 Runner
It's not tailgating....it's called drafting.
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09-02-2010, 09:06 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DC Dude
That sounds high.
I used a brake service/pad replacement dealer coupon for $85. Changing rotors shouldn't cost that much...estimate worst case $200 each.
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I priced it out online, and the dealer quotes seems fair.
rotars: $124.74 each
pads: $102.12 each set
shims kits front: $38.06
shim kit rear: $24.42
That included labour. They charged an extra hour labour to dismantle, service and adjust parking brake. Seemed a little high, but whatever. The parking brake wasn't holding and I asked them to adjust it.
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2003, Sport, V6, 4WD
Overland Warehouse/Radflo 2.0 suspension, SPC upper control arms
2016 Trail Edition w/KDSS
Icon Stage 2 suspension, BFG T/A KO2 285/70/17, C4Fab sliders
Last edited by Will_4R; 09-02-2010 at 09:09 PM.
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