Does the V8 AWD 4runner need to have this done? Propeller shaft = Drive shaft right? The 6 zerts on the drive shaft are lubed every OCI and with my old Landcruiser I never had to re-torque the drive shaft. Did any of you have your Propeller shafts re-torqued at your 15K mile service? Is this just some money maker for the dealer? If you had it done what did the dealer charge?

I believe the re-torque they are refering to is the flange bolts that connect the drive shaft to the trans/diffs. Just a safety thing, to make sure none of these bolts have loosened up.

Yes, propeller shaft = driveshaft.

Had this done today along with the front and rear diff fluid changed. I think I'm a chronic over maintainer

I will do the transfer case at 30K miles, it should be fine with that interval. I will do my transmission at 45K miles and the front and rear diff's again at 45K miles. I don't tow so this is more than needed.

Pitbull, What type of fluid did you use for your diffs?

Mobil dino GL5 lube. I will be changing the transfer case at 30K miles and figure I will go full synthetic with the diff's and the transfer case at that time. I just wanted to get the wear metals out of the diffs at 15K miles. Plus from what I understand the front diffs fluid has been kind of nasty at 15K miles in other members 4runners. Since I don't tow and will be trading at 80-90K miles this should be good, plus it should give the new owner a well maintained 4runner if they want to keep the maintanance up for the long term.

How much grease does each zert take, think I read somewhere that 1 of the zerts only takes 5 or 6 pumps and not to over fill it, but which 1 and the others you just fill to the grease comes out.

I used a torque wrench and checked the torque of the prop shaft (driveshaft) bolts a couple of times (both front and rear shafts), and I can't imagine they'd ever be loose. The bolts appeared to already be way tighter than the torque specs, so I'm not sure why they want you to check them so often. Maybe certain types of operation (offroading?) can cause them to loosen.

EDGE, and Pitbull, I think the name for the grease fittings is "zerk" (did a web search on both spellings). I grew up on a farm/ranch and did thousands of these in my earlier years and found the 4Runners to be easier than most, but there is still the question of whether you want to only refill the joints or drive all the old grease out.

For the spiders in the Hooke joints, using lots of pumps to drive all the old grease out seems desirable if you've got contamination, but is probably overkill otherwise. If the driveshafts haven't been underwater or in lots of heavy dust, I think it's enough to just pump (maybe 2-8 pumps depending) until you see grease coming out of all 4 cups in the spider.

For the splined slip joints in the 4Runner there is a cylindrical cover over the joint that (I think) helps retain grease in the joint. The first time I greased this joint it took lots of (more than 20) pumps and I could tell I'd filled it when the shaft/cover just started to try to extend. After that, many fewer pumps were needed. I worry a little about overfilling this joint, as I'm afraid of blowing a seal and/or throwing grease onto the underside of the vehicle and getting it on the hot exhaust. I have yet to see any greae forced out by bumps, etc. since greasing.

In general, I'd recommending bringing a rag along to wipe the spiders and the slip joints after greasing, to reduce later dirt accumulation.

I use a mini grease gun. Not sure of the capacity of the grease tubes, I’m guessing 6oz, but I emptied a full one into this joint trying to eliminate the “bump-stop/axle-windup” situation. I was surprised at how much I pumped in. It can still take some more but I decided to stop. I still have the “bump-stop” issue but it is very slight now compared to when I receive the vehicle.

The driveshaft slip joint is NOT supposed to be completely filled when you grease it. It is designed to 'slip' in and out in order to allow for suspension compression and expansion. If you fill this joint too much, it will not be able to compress and this can cause stress on the suspension/transfer connection.

I would not have normally squeezed in this much grease, but the “bump-stop” issue is the only thing that really bothers me. It’s my one and only real complaint about my T4R. It is much better now. I will probably not grease this again for at least another year, or until I feel that “bump effect” increasing. I swear mine must have been bone dry. Everyone in the vehicle could feel it, everytime it was driven.

Since the front and rear shaft both have 3 zerk fittings and look identical except for size do I do the same for the rear slip yoke, and if the slip yoke takes grease and you can overfill it where does it go:o

Thanks for all the info, some of the stuff I have been told makes me scared to even think what some so called professions will do once the truck leaves my sight

If you are not supposed to fill it then how many pumps would be sufficient?

In other words how do I know when I put enough in but not too much? Any recommendations.

I've already did the u-joints, I just need to buy a second grease gun because I am using two different greases. So I will be doing the slip joints probably this weekend and would like to know what is right.

It's a subjective thing, I go with 4-5 pumps, and let the grease work itself into the splined part of the joint. If you follow the manuals instructions, they suggest removing the drive shaft, separating the joint, cleaning the old grease out and re-applying new grease and reinstalling the shaft. If you do a search on this issue, it has been explained elsewhere that the problem is that Toyota apparently was a little too close with the manufacturing tollerances for the inner and outer splines of the joint. So, once the old grease has worn away, the bump problem returns. Regular greasing ( every 6 months ) has kept my bump problem to a minimum. Also remember that during the winter months, the grease will be cold, and therefore will not 'flow' as easily.