Synthetic Engine Oil
by Jim Kerr

Synthetic engine oils have been around for decades and work very well. Just like many other products, they are always being improved and boldly marketed. Motorists may not be sure if the manufacturer's advertised claims about the synthetic oils are correct, or if they are just hype to entice buyers to the more expensive lubricant. Recently Pennzoil came out with a new synthetic oil with their new special additive "Pennzane". I thought I would try the Pennzoil Synthetic oil in one of my own vehicles to see how it performed.

Let me start by saying I wasn't expecting miracles. Even though the "Pennzane" oil additive is a synthesized hydrocarbon fluid and has been used by NASA since 1989 as a lubricant for space-going mechanisms, I didn't expect to launch my pickup truck into orbit. I also didn't expect the synthetic oil to be a "Mechanic in a Can" and repair or eliminate any mechanical problems with my truck's engine (it has none I am aware of).

What I was expecting was better engine protection during extreme temperatures, both hot and cold, and maybe a slight change in engine performance. I was also interested to see if the synthetic oil would make any difference in exhaust emission levels.

An exhaust gas analysis of the truck shows the hydrocarbons levels slightly high, but the truck performing well otherwise.

Operating the truck on the dynamometer enabled a baseline horsepower and emissions test to be done while driving at 100 kph.

After running some preliminary tests, the old oil was drained and the engine filled with the new Pennzoil 10W-30 Synthetic engine oil with "Pennzane" additive.

I started my investigation by running a baseline test on my truck. It is a full size GMC two-wheel drive pickup truck equipped with a 5.7 litre V8 engine and automatic transmission. The truck has had routine maintenance since new and with 30,000 kilometres on the vehicle, the engine has had a chance to break in completely. I hooked the truck up to our chassis dynamometer and drove it until the engine, transmission, and axle were completely warmed up. I was then ready to do some measurements.

The truck was due for an oil change, but I wanted to take an emissions sample and horsepower measurement before switching to the Pennzoil synthetic. I used a Snap-On four gas analyzer to check the exhaust emissions while driving the truck at 100 kph on the dyno. The readouts for carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, and oxygen were fine, but the hydrocarbons level was a little higher than I expected for a vehicle equipped with a catalytic converter. Perhaps the converter had degraded in performance because of using gasoline with a high sulphur content, or the engine could be running a little rich because of oxygen sensor contamination, but I was just interested in a base line measurement. I would have to check out the hydrocarbons level later.

Next, I took a horsepower readout from the dyno. Rear wheel horsepower is always much lower than advertised horsepower rating but I wasn't after maximum horsepower; I wanted to see if there were any gains at part throttle driving. I set the dynamometer so it would load the vehicle with an eight horsepower load at 100 kph. This is how much horsepower it takes to drive a typical full size pickup down the highway at that speed. Then I measured the throttle opening by reading the data from the truck's engine computer. It all sounds high tech, but it is really very simple to do if one has the equipment, and I felt it was necessary to take these measurements to make my evaluation as objective as possible.

Finally, it was time to change the oil. I installed a new original equipment oil filter (same as before) and five litres of Pennzoil Synthetic Oil with Pennzane. After running the engine for 15 minutes to ensure the oil was on all moving parts inside the engine, I stabilized the engine temperature and ran the truck at 100 kph on the dyno to check the throttle data. It showed no significant difference, which would indicate that there was no horsepower increase at highway cruising speeds. It is important to remember that horsepower readings are affected greatly by engine temperature, underhood air temperature, and humidity. I tried to make the two horsepower tests as similar as possible but there is room for error. What I can say from my experience, is that synthetic oil will not give you a BIG horsepower increase.

Next, I retested the exhaust emissions levels. Again, I found no real differences. There seemed to be no reduction of emissions by switching to synthetic oil in a good running engine. The tests confirmed what I suspected; I would have to test the oil over the long term to see if I could find any benefits.

The next test came a week later. I took the family on holidays through Montana. It was hot! The temperature exceeded 40 C and the speed limits are high. The truck performed flawlessly, and did not use any oil in 2000 kilometres of driving. I also notice the oil pressure gauge remained in the normal range with the engine idling, instead of dropping to the low end of the scale as it has done during previous hot weather driving. This test was definitely subjective, but it reinforced my belief in one of the advantages of synthetic oil; Synthetic oils don't change viscosity as much when they get hot and therefore they can protect the engine better.

Several cars require synthetic engine oil to meet the manufacturer's warranty requirements. Typically, these are high performance vehicles that generate a lot of heat in the engine during spirited driving. Synthetic oils provide the extra protection during hot engine conditions.

It was only a few weeks later that I was able to check the oil performance during cold weather. While we have not reached the frigid temperatures of winter, the temperature has already dropped to -14 C where I was driving. I noticed the engine cranked quickly, and the oil pressure rose immediately upon starting the truck. This seemed to be a faster rise in oil pressure during cold temperatures than I previously had with regular oil. The synthetic oil did not seem to thicken as much during cold temperatures and therefore could provide better lubrication during cold weather starting. While I realize this is very subjective evaluation, I did place one sample of synthetic oil and a similar one of regular oil in the freezer and found the synthetic oil did pour easier after being frozen for a few hours.

Finally, after five thousand kilometres of driving, I completed my evaluation by re-testing the horsepower output and exhaust emissions levels. There were no significant changes from my initial tests.

So what are the advantages of synthetic oil? It would appear the manufacturer's claims of better engine protection at extreme driving temperatures are the key advantages. If you work your engine hard, drive in extreme heat, or have cold weather starts, then synthetic oil should protect the engine better.

The disadvantages of synthetic oil are mainly the cost of the oil. It is more than twice as expensive as regular oil and still needs changing at the same mileage intervals as regular oil. Synthetic oils may not break down as regular oils do over time, but one of the main reasons for changing oil is to remove crankcase acids and contaminants caused by the combustion process. Synthetic oil gets "dirty" just as regular oil does.

Synthetic oils cost more, but the cost is insignificant compared to the cost of engine mechanical repairs. If your climatic conditions or driving style warrant the use of synthetic oil, then it is worth the few extra dollars.

As for my truck, I plan to operate the truck with synthetic oil over the winter to gain personal experience in starting performance at -40C temperatures! Real life testing can sometimes be tough on the tester and the vehicle!

Opinion:
Synthetic motor oil
by Phil Bailey

About ten years ago, when I was a local bright light in the Montreal radio world, I used to be approached to test a lot of automotive products. One such product was called 'Motrlube' and was being produced by a chemical company in Montreal. Initially, this company, in conjunction with the National Research Council, had been asked to develop a non freezing grease for the old fire hydrants in the city. Unfortunately, the synthetic grease they produced worked so well that the city's needs for the following years were far less than expected, so the company set out to find another outlet for its research and decided upon motor oil as a strong possibility.

The secret was that this company had developed a catalyst that allowed them to blend together three different polyalphaolefins (PAOs) to produce a very superior product at low cost. As it happened, I was leaving for a 1300 Km run to Halifax the next week in my Golf, so I poured 4 litres of this dark brown brew into my engine, along with a new filter and off I went.

Now, I had previously driven as far West as Calgary, for the usual reason. When working on a project, I would take my car to the site and fly home every weekend. Sometimes these projects would last for months, so I made some extra money and the client saved a bundle on rental car fees. As anyone knows, who drives long distances, one gets used to the rhythm and sound of the car. No need to watch the speedometer, you just know when you are traveling at a good cruising speed. I usually try to drive just 'under the radar' at about 117 Km/hour.

Somewhere west of Quebec City, on the long run to Riviere du Loup, I happened to glance down at the speedometer and found myself running at 135 Km/hour. Foot off the loud pedal, settle down again, back up to 135K. The engine was running very smoothly indeed and I began to realize that this brown liquid in the engine was the reason for this quiet running. Usually, I achieved about 37 mpg on such a run. On this run I got over 41 mpg at a higher running speed.

Since that day, I've used Motrlube, a company now based in Calgary, in all my cars. At that time, the Motrlube company claimed that the product was good for two years or 60,000 Km between oil changes. I decided to push the envelope and went for 3 years and 100K without an oil change. I changed the filter every year and at that time I sent a sample to a laboratory for analysis. The lab conclusion in every case was "do not change the oil'. Now this old faithful car of mine, is used for winter driving only. It has 400,000 Km on the clock and the body is held together with epoxy putty, but the engine starts first time in winter and has never been opened up for any reason except to change timing belts. It still burns no oil. I'm pretty sure that the use of pure PAO synthetics has produced this result. Equally, I use synthetics in the gearbox, which makes VWs notoriously reluctant gearbox work much better in very cold weather.

Ten years later, everyone has a long life product, but there are still only a handful of pure PAO products on the market. Amsoil, Redline and Motrlube are three of the ones I know well and they are all very good products. (You can find the websites of all these companies through the Canadian Driver web index). Castrol, egged on by Audi, recently launched SLX Longlife II In Europe. And this oil has the ability to keep some engines operating for up to a staggering 30,000 miles (50,000 Km ) between changes. (Castrol's words, not mine). This Audi Variable Service concept (AVS) first appeared in the European A2 - a car designed without a hood for "minimal mechanical interference by the owner' - quote.

The low maintenance idea has been extended to other cars in the Audi range since, and Longlife gives these cars the potential to cover up to 19,000 miles (30,000 Km ) between services. Audi's V6 TDI diesels can cover as many as 22,000 miles (36,000 Km ) before draining the sump and four-cylinder TDI diesels might, in the right circumstances, avoid mechanics for up to 30,000 miles.

Audi spokesman David Goosey said "This oil has been developed to maintain its viscosity characteristics, and so deliver the key benefits of fuel efficiency and wear protection, throughout far longer oil drain intervals."

Under AVS, Audi drivers no longer need to adhere to a traditional service plan. Instead, new Audis have an on-board system, which monitors both current engine condition, and the type of motoring the car has typically endured. It then tells the driver when a service is required via the instrument panel.

Last time I was in the UK, I priced this product and it was selling for $20 a litre, which leads me to believe that this is definitely a pure PAO product.

So what about the $7 products that we can buy over here? Products such as Castrol Syntec and Mobil1? Well, these products have a very good performance level, but cannot match the life of the pure PAO formulations. To start at the beginning, ordinary engine oil is a by-product of the refining process and becomes available whether the refiner wants it or not. As a lubricant, it has very little value at all until it is doctored with a group of additives, from which comes the viscosity and durability rating shown on the container. As we all are aware, the basic raw material is a very viscous black goo, that has to be diluted with solvents at the refinery so that it can be processed.

Unfortunately, these solvents are carried over with the lubricating oil fraction and are the major reason for the rapid deterioration of the additives in less expensive oils. Within 2000 Km or so, low cost oil is not doing much of a job of lubricating your engine. At high temperatures, this oil carbonises rapidly and most of the black residue that drains out at an oil change is not engine wear, but burnt, deteriorated, oil that has carbonised itself into oblivion.

A $1.50/litre motor oil, no matter what the brand name, should not be left in your engine for more than 5000 Km. 100% recycled oil, selling for eighty eight cents per litre in the big retail stores, has hit the market. Note that even these oils have an SF/CC rating, which only goes to show how low these standards really can be. So that, in general, ordinary engine oil has not improved much in the last five years or so.

Now next up are the "100%' synthetics which carry a little disclaimer on their label: " not including carrier oil". These products are known as Hydrogenated Esters (HE) and are just properly modified and reprocessed mineral oils, although they certainly perform much more adequately and are probably good for 24,000 Km between drain periods, with regular filter changes.

Fourth generation products, are now available, as used in the aircraft industry, where oil changes are uncommon, at least in jet planes. If one can find a way of formulating a PAO (polymer) based product containing no mineral oil whatsoever, at an affordable price, then one has a fourth generation engine lubricant that can remain in an engine, almost until the engine is rebuilt.

Filtration of pure PAO lubricants is not challenging for the filter because no carbon is present, and the filter is doing what it should do, eliminating the odd metal particle.

If you have a new car and wish to comply entirely with your warranty, then your owner's manual calls for an oil change every 12,000 Km. Changing a pure PAO product at this distance is major overkill, but costs only $65 on average and is therefore no more expensive than cheap oil changed every 4000 Km, particularly if the latter service is done at a dealership.

Another common objection to leaving oil in an engine for long periods of time is contamination from products of combustion. In the case of mineral oil, one can actually form an emulsion with water, resulting in a beige coloured `mayonnaise' that is some times seen on oil filler caps. By contrast, PAO based lubricants shrug off water and acids and will not form emulsions. Consequently, as soon as the engine lubricant reaches the boiling point of the condensables, PAO's reject them through the PCV valve and go back to doing their job of lubricating the engine, completely unaffected by diluents of any kind.

And now, let's put to bed all the objections you will hear concerning the use of synthetic engine lubricants:

Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals.
Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize. Ultimately it is the additive mix in the oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.

Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine.
Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness"). For example, it makes no difference whether it is 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) that oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.

Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil.
Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended to use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)

Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.
Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used untested ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synthetic lubricants to suffer a bad reputation. Fortunately, those days are long gone. Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.

Myth#5: Synthetic lubricants are not readily available.
Untrue. This may have been the case two decades ago when AMSOIL and Mobil1 were the only real choices, but today nearly every major oil company has added a synthetic product to their lines. This in itself is a testament to the value synthetics offer.

Myth #6: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge
Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperatures and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things happen. First, an oil's lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum base stocks begin to react with each other, forming sludge, gums and varnishes. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital engine protection. Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow to critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy. Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.

Myth #7: Synthetics can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.
Untrue. In fact the very low ash content of synthetics will extend the life of every exhaust system component.

Myth #8: Synthetics void warranties.
Untrue. No major manufacturer of automobiles specifically bans the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on the showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill. Which may not make the dealers too happy since oil changes usually lead to other service work.

Myth #9: Synthetics last forever.
Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic base stocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. However, by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic motor oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non synthetics.

Myth #10: Synthetics are too expensive.
Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine lubricants more economical that conventional non synthetics. In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today's motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.

Conclusions
Since their inception, manufacturers of synthetic motor oils have sought to educate the public about the facts regarding synthetics, and the need for consumers to make their lubrication purchasing decisions based on quality rather than price. As was the case with microwave ovens or electric lights, a highly technological improvement must often overcome a fair amount of public skepticism and consumer inertia before it is embraced by the general population. But the word is getting out as a growing number of motorists worldwide experience the benefits of synthetic lubrication. The wave of the future, in auto lubes, is well under way.

For the environmental enrthusiasts, the use of synthetics could reduce waste oil disposal by 80%, so if environment is your thing, then synthetic lubricants should be your choice. As a footnote, we have tried to sell expensive synthetics on the environmental argument, with no great success. Unless you can also show an economic advantage, the general public will not invest.

Someone told me a couple of days ago that if I use 5-30 Amsoil it will void my warranty. The v6 calls for 5-30, why would Amsoil void my warranty. I told him he has to be wrong. So, now I'm asking to make sure I'm not wrong. I have mobil 1 5-30 in now. I wanted to try the Amsoil next, so I bought 6 quarts of it. Was this person telling me the truth???

I remember reading once that Amsoil was not API Service rated. Make sure it is rated API Service SL or greater. I just check my oil and both the conventional Castrol and synthetic Mobil 1 and both are rated SL. The rating should be on each bottle.

The person may also be refering to going past the recommended 7,500 miles. Toyota looks at conventional oil and synthetic oil as the same. If you go further, Toyota may not warranty it.

If it has a API Service lablel of SL or greater and you follow Toyota's recommended 7,500 I see no problem using it.

I just bought the TRD Air filter and Oil filter online. Expect them any day now, My new 4runner has 501 miles on it, i have been easy on it, some freeway and some around town, i have put my foot down a couple times to make it through a traffic spot. But no problems i forsee. So should i wait till 5k miles as told by my dealer before my first free oil change, or should i go now and add the new parts and go to synthetic oil...i was already considering this oil, but Thai's thread here pushed em over the edge, now i am going to do it. Any suggestions guys, what brands do you like, mobil, penns, etc???

They are correct. Amsoil synthetic oil does not have the API donut and is not an oil that would be approved under the Toyota warranty. If you had a failure that Toyota determined was oil related they would ask to look at your oil change records. If your records showed you used a non-API approved oil that would be all Toyota would need to say your warranty was void. Now on the other hand Amsoil synthetic oil is one of the best oils on the market and turn in great used oil analysis. I'm going to use Mobil 1 10w30 in my 4runner for temps above "0" degrees. I used Amsoil 0w30 in my old 1995 Landcruiser after the warranty expired and had great results, traded it at 136K miles and it ran like it was new.

Check this thread out you will learn alot about oil on the recommended site. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...8951#post28951

That is wierd they are not API certified. Maybe it cost too much to get that done. Even Quaker State (the worst oil in the world) is API certified. Go figure.

It costs a lot of money and everytime you change your formula you have to get it re-certified. I guess Amsoil is a small company and feel that they won't lose that much business not spending the extra money.

I know lots of people use amsoil, even under thier warranty. But, is it worth it? What makes my worry now is this new recall on the v6. Some crankshaft pulley's were improperly milled, which can cause a oil leak in the front seal. Knowing my luck I'll change to amsoil, then I'll get the recall notice. Then they will say the leak is caused by the oil, not the crankshaft. I guess you could say it is not amsoil in your 4runner. Someone also told me that amsoil is better on your seals than mobil 1. Something about an alcohol base in it that makes the gaskets softer and swell. That is why I wanted to switch.

I keep hearing about Amsoil and Mobil One and even Castrol, But why do i not hear anything about Pennsoil??? Is there something wrong with this brand of synthetic???

Everyone has their favorite oil. Not much reason to pick one over the other. Most companies buy base stocks from two or three suppliers. Then they buy an additive package and soon you have a quart of oil.

Some opinions are developed from incomplete information. Just about any API certified oil is the same as any other API certified oil. It costs money to make it better.

Then there's synthetic oil. Its better in every way except the cost. So you have a choice here that's a bit different. The theory is that these oils are better and different than regular API cert oils. One synthetic oil may really be different that the others. The first choice is synthetic blend or pure synthetic. Then there are blends that are called full synthetic. If that isn't enough there are different base stocks for synthetic.

So you pay your money and take your choice.

Oh, and be sure to pay as much attention to the oil filter. Are there any API certs for a filter........not. How good is your oil if it has to fight the junk that a filter should catch.

I tend to keep vehicles and run the mileage up so I use a synthetic and try to use a good filter. I change it myself to save what I can. That way I know it's changed when warm and I aneal those aluminum washers with maap gas torch.

OK, I read the stuff about synth not being looked down upon by any manufacturer, and that obviously means Toyota too. Good news, cuz I plan to run synth in my 03 4Runner's engine, and all drive train components.

I will be towing a good load, and it gets darned HOT around Arizona & Utah! In fact, I will probably put a larger tranny cooler on it, as soon as I determine via an after market tranny temp gauge, just how hot the fluid is going up a 5,500 foot grade, towing GCWR of 10,500 lbs. in 110 degree heat. (sounds like fun, eh!?)

So, my question has always been, with regards to synthetics - has anyone done a test for oil contaminents after using synths as opposed to dino? This seems to me to be the "acid" (no pun intended) test for deciding between the two. If there is equal contaminents or less with synth, then it seems like it's "ye - haw", let's always use synths for the longer oil change duration!



BTW - I read thru Thai's stuff, but, as a modern American (with a couple glasses of wine in him), I'm often afflicted with short attention span, so if all this was in there - please forgive me!

Check this site out, they have analyzed all of your concernes to death www.bobistheoilguy.com Is that 10,500 lbs over Toyota's recommendation? I've never looked because I never plan to tow or haul more than a couple of hundred pounds.

Thanks Pitbull - I'll look at that website.

The 4R like you have has a gross combined weight rating (GCWR) of 12,000. That would include gross truck & gross trailer. Towing at 10,500 would put me under GCWR about 9%. Actually, I hope to be a little lower than that - about 10,000 (for a cushion).

OK - I looked at that site, and didn't see anything jump out at me as a direct comparrison of synth contaminents vs. dino. Maybe someone else can see this.