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Old 09-19-2019, 09:44 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjtoney View Post
I replaced the battery a few months ago. It's happened at least 20 times since then, I've been to the auto store to return the new battery and originally they claimed the alternator was done. I then took it to the mechanic and he found the bolts simply weren't tightened enough, tested the alternator and no issues.

Since then it's happened multiple times, does anyone have an update on this?
Have you checked for a parasitic drain using a volt meter?
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Old 09-20-2019, 03:28 PM #17
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Have you checked for a parasitic drain using a volt meter?

I have a volt meter, I, unfortunately, am not well versed in it. I have 4 "inputs" and a plethora of options. I was messing with it yesterday and running them across the terminals was just sparking, I assume I was doing something incorrectly.
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Old 09-20-2019, 04:00 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjtoney View Post
I have a volt meter, I, unfortunately, am not well versed in it. I have 4 "inputs" and a plethora of options. I was messing with it yesterday and running them across the terminals was just sparking, I assume I was doing something incorrectly.
Well, that doesn't sound good...you may have blown the fuses inside your meter.

Google search is your friend...many, many links like this available.

How to Use a Multimeter - Beginner's Guide | Random Nerd Tutorials
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Old 09-20-2019, 04:13 PM #19
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The link really doesn't show much in regard to taking a current reading.

Move red lead to Amps (A)

Move dial to Amps (A). If you have a cheap one make sure you are at the highest (A) reading first. Should be only mA when vehicle is off but who knows.

Remove (+) from battery

Put one lead on battery and one lead on disconnect cable.

Report back with readings. If nothing shows try to move (A) dial one down depending on what settings your meter has.
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Old 09-20-2019, 06:14 PM #20
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Years of personal experience and in auto parts taught me that new batteries are not infallable. Especially in the past couple decades as battery companies have been gobbled up by giants East Penn and Johnson Controls, who make the vast majority of aftermarket and OEM batteries. No matter the brand on the label.

The original post appeared that the alternator was working to overcome a weak battery. So I’m not going to go into a lot of armchair troubleshooting.

I’ve had a Sears Die Hard last me a decade in the 1970s through 1980s in my 1970 Ford F-250 4x4. I had the OEM Delphi in my 2002 Tacoma TRD last from June 2002 to December 2010. The OEM battery in my 2012 Outback lasted until last October.

Conversely, I had OEM batteries in new vehicles go dead in three to six months (a 1988 Ford Taurus, a 1996 Cadillac deVille Concours and a 1996 Chevrolet S-10). In May 2017 I replaced the battery in my Tacoma and it failed in October, 2018 (two days before that in my Outback). As a parts man I’ve seen bad cells in new stock, or the battery brought back after days to weeks after sale.

All chain auto parts stores offer free battery testing and are reasonably accurate if the counter person is motivated to do his/her job.

Batteries aren’t made like they use to be; vehicles are so much more complicated and place far higher demands on them then in the past. Short lived batteries are the new normal.
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Last edited by DAW89446; 09-20-2019 at 06:20 PM.
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