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Lift on no-lift should not make alignment inconsistent. Once aligned it should stay there unless you have crucial components with play or torque values below specs. Good alignment tech should drive you vehicle after job done and recheck. Also, check your ball joints and wheel bearings up front...

If using anti-seize or any lubricant (OP mentioned PB Blaster) remember to back off torque since 13 ft/lb is dry spec and will be over torqued with those products applied.

Even if you do not off road - mark all alignment tabs and tie rod ends with paint marker. This will save you trip to the shop and guesswork if any move after say pothole impact.

Lower Control Arm has moved out alignment. Take to alignment shop and have them check and correct. My 4th gen's LCA moved slightly after rock off roading but driving straight down the road on the way home felt like a major damage.

I always use torque specs on everything. Since I'm not pro and don't have muscle memory for such things I'd probably overtighten and strip things if used "good and tight" method. 18 ft/lb housing (mine is metal) and 10 ft/lb on filter drain.

Bilstein 5100

As always amazing stories and videos! Thank you, Ray.

Up is Up no matter which way air blows. You are overthinking it.

Amazon will sell anything seller offers including counterfeit Toyota parts, including $0.99 drain plug washers. I know that for a fact. That can cost some one catastrophic oil loss and engine failure. By the way labeling was OEM looking.

2026 marks TRD's 50th Anniversary. Decade ago Toyota offered 40% off on TRD parts for 40th event. Stand by for official announcement...

Rear body mounts severely compromised. Do not drive until frame patch welded in. 4Runner Frame repair parts as mentioned in first reply by MikeinNH67 found here: Just a moment...

2013 TE 63K miles only (short daily drive to work).

Yes, I've 2004 4th gen 4 runner and I drained block only once. Just radiator drain is fine. Remember to burp air out after refilling.

CBI

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