Recent content by 1950884

I replaced the blue wire from the rubber boot in the hatch to the back door ecu. The result was that the exterior switch to open the door works now! Also, the rear window will go up and down. However, the rear defrost nor the rear wiper turn on. It worked this way for several days and then quite...

Another update. Upon searching the drivers kick panel I found a partially unplugged automate am1 security or alarm system. I thought this might be the cause of my issues so I uninstalled it. Whoever installed it didn’t follow mobile electronic professional certification protocol. They removed...

Found an issue. The back door ecu harness should have 10-12 volts on the blue and blue-red wire at all times, irrespective of key position. My blue wire has 0.2-0 volts. Ecu cannot function due to this. This blue wire travels through the back door BD1 rubber to a connector in the roof, then...

The factory repair manual has a section titled MP where the multiplex troubleshoot procedure exist. You don’t have to have a scanner to test. I did learn that the rear door courtesy switch is part of the rear door latch/locking mechanism.

Does anybody know how to test the multiplex ecu mounted on the tailgate? It controls rear wiper, rear defrost, rear power window. None of those function in my vehicle. The tech manual says you can connect a scanner to look at the ecu’s inputs and outputs but I don’t have that tool.

According to factory manual BR-3 ‘brake fluid bleeding after replacing the brake accumulator’ the hydraulic pump should operate for 8 to 14 seconds. Mine clocked in at 12 to 13 seconds. I haven’t had any check engine codes since installing. I might pay toyota $125 to bleed the master and brakes...

I followed the procedure start to finish. The ABS plastic body is cracked but the sensor is still functioning. I do appreciate you trying to save me money!

This is normal: (2) Depress the brake pedal 20 times or more to release the pressure in the accumulator. HINT: When the pressure is released, the brake pedal stroke becomes longer. This is NOT normal: (5) Turn the ignition switch to ON and measure the brake booster pump operating time (the time...

I reset everything and drove very gingerly for 5 miles and the codes came back. No tires rubbed during those 5 miles. All I need is a way to read DTC codes. I can follow these simple procedure to determine if C1256 is an actual issue or caused by something else. In my case I caused the code...

Yes, the brakes seem to function properly. After installing the new O2 sensor & trying to pry one of the ABS sensor out (started to crack the case so stopped) I cleared the codes and drove about 5 miles to the auto part store. New codes: C0200 Right ABS sensor malfunction C0205 Left ABS sensor...

I re-measured, 12.6 while off and 13.9 while idling. Taken from the battery.

How all of these systems interact is becoming clearer. My trouble is that I've driven the vehicle exactly how it currently sits without any engine codes (at least not that I was aware of). I bought the vehicle with a 3 inch lift and the tires hit the frame, fender and liner, so I changed from...

What is your source for saying "O2 sensor causes all of those codes and disables your skid ECU?" Battery volts were low 13's before starting vehicle and high 13's when idling. I have an OE Denso 234-4260 O2 sensor I am going to install right now.

Three times C0606 Engine Control Module Processor. P0137 O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 low volt. C1201 Engine Control System Malfunction. C1233 Malfunction in antilock brake system control system. C1241 Low Battery Pos Volt. C1256 Accumulator Low Pressure. Maybe I should clear the codes and then...

I looked at your post. While it didn't include C1256, it is very interesting to see how the different DTC codes interplay (feed back & feed forward) on each other. I will attempt to clean my ABS sensor tonight. I have good reason to believe that I have a braking issue because of the explanation...