Recent content by 401Jeeper

When I got my 91 it had a similar coolant leak. I bought the water pump, got it tore down to the pump and found out it was just the coolant line that runs from the pump to who knows what just to the rear of the oil filter. The pump was fine, but that coolant hose was oil-soaked and leaking. I...

It does make sense. The fuel pressure regulator is a vacuum diaphragm, and if it's blown it could feed raw fuel into the vacuum lines.

Generally speaking, the outside (and/or inside) of the front tires wear faster due to tire angle when turning. On the same note, the center of the rear tires generally wear faster due to overinflation. This is only a generalization, but it's what I've noticed over the years of vehicle...

The tie rod end is no big deal, but you should get an alignment done afterwards. It messes up your steering. The CV boot is doable in your driveway, but if you don't have air tools or at least decent mechanical ability you're best taking it somewhere because you have to remove the CV shaft...

The 3.Slow is, as stated, an underpowered gas hog. With your symptoms, though, I'm amazed no one has suggested the other notorious problem with these motors...HEAD GASKETS. The problems you described, especially the overheating and blowing the radiator, are classic blown head gaskets. Sorry. :(

Sounds a lot like either a throwout or pilot bearing. It's been a while since I've been inside a clutch but I'd lay money on one or the other or both.

I had the same problem with my 91. Pretty constant rubbing noise whether or not in a turn. Turns out it was the axleshaft I put in it. Replaced the old (torn boot) with a new one from Checker (Shucks/Kragen now O'Reilley) and the noise started. Repacked the bearings, replaced the front diff...

That's actually called the harmonic balancer. It consists of a small inner pulley bonded by rubber, basically, to the outer metal part you're seeing. Usually has timing marks on it. It's made this way to help dampen vibrations from the engine. The "o-ring" you see hanging out is the bonding...

You have to remove the hubs and unbolt the rotors from the back of the hubs. Best bet is to get yourself a Haynes manual and go for it. You'll need a 54mm socket and a torque wrench too. Other than that it's pretty straightforward. Don't forget new seals and grease. Might as well repack the...

Thanks man, you rock. I will contact you if I need any other diff questions answered. I found out yesterday that you can in fact R/R the front diff on a 91 T4R in the driveway, on a nose-up angle, without pulling the CV shafts completely out, with a motorcycle jack. And it really is only 3...

Here's what I just learned with my 91. I did front brakes and bearings because it needed it. Repacked both front bearings and replaced the right side because of a similar noise. I then just yesterday replaced the front differential because it needed it. The PO ran it dry of gear oil (don't...

I have. Over 50 views on my two posts and not one reply on either one. Not even "I don't know, try PM'ing this person." On my Jeep board, among others, there would have been tons of replies, some with help, some with condolances. Just getting frustrating with a broke truck in the street, you...

I saw a window sticker on the trail one day and had to laugh... "I understand the Jeep thing, that's why I drive a Toyota!"

Puddydad, thank you. That's the info I was looking for. :thanks:

Thanks for all the input. It'll come in handy at the junkyard when I figure this out for myself. :wtf: