Recent content by Airgazm

Looks like the Ctek 250 dual I created this post with was discontinued. Looks like the replacement model is the Ctek 250SA. I only paid a little over $200 for mine, but now they seem to have gone up in price, like $250-$300

Only if there is a load present, with no load, the voltage will read the same as it was directly at the battery.

Depends on many factors like how recent your engine was started, the type and size of battery, and the current temperature, but generally you don't want to go down past 12volts. 12.6 is full charge, 12.3 is half charge, 12.0 is 25% or less. If you have an AGM or deep cycle you can go low on...

Update. I finally got a chance to take the 4runner camping for a 4 day weekend. I was presently surprised that my Engel 50L fridge lasted 3 full days(75 hours) on the Odyssey Group 35 battery and the voltage was still around 11.5 volts before I started the truck and left. So, very happy...

Yep, in fact most fridges come with much smaller cig lighter adapter wire, it's all about voltage drop over a distance. Think about the fuse you have in there, say it's a 15 amp fuse, its a very small wire in that fuse, so you won't have any problems with the connector being small, it's all...

Shimmy in the steering wheel when breaking is almost always warped front rotors. My guess is they got the torque incorrect and they warped when they got hot after the tire work. One bad braking incident will warp them, like going down a steep hill and getting them hot, but having the torque...

great info there

There are some big differences between the ML-ACR and the Redarc. I would recommend carefully reading though the differences before making that investment.

If you think about how the shimmy happens you will think about those trucks you see on the highway, you know the semi or trailer with that 'tire', the one that is hopping up and down, we have all seen it. Well, this is what your tire is doing, probably not as bad, but it's hopping around, if...

That looks like it might be a good option. I went a different route with my setup and created this thread. So far it works great. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/243334-another-dual-battery-setup.html

This is what you want to really have between both batterys. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/35/91/Automatic_Charging_Relays/ML-ACRs Or a cheaper version, something like this, https://www.bluesea.com/products/7601/m-Series__Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_65A Or even cheaper...

So, why not just use a voltage sensing relay, would solve all these issues.

sure thing, simple it is though.

Actually, only the Aux battery gets drained. The charge controller isolates the starting battery from the second battery, it never connects them together, in any event. There is zero chance draining the starting battery with this setup. No, there is no need to run anything additional, I...

Thanks for the link to Blue Sea product. That might work too. Last night I was thinking I could simply get by with a cheap SPDT relay (using the closed terminal) for the Ctek portion. You can buy qty 5 SPDT 30amp relays for $10 bucks shipped and it's only a 20 amp charger so the relay would...