Recent content by alumarine

Have you used OBDII reader to check for codes?

You should be able to pull the timing belt cover back enough to see if it's the water pump.

No sealant on the compressor mounting bracket bolts.

I can't confirm the return line but if you run the rear heater and adjust the temperature control the cooler of the two lines should be the return. An I/R gun would make it easier.

I'd hold off on replacing the knock sensors for the time being as well. Have you checked for codes?

You've found the things that connector is connected to. If you can live with that there is no down side.

If you want a block heater there might be only one choice. Part no. C0140-02134 Goes in a casting/freeze plug at the rear left hand side of the block.

Try removing the rear drive shaft and see if it still does it. If it still does, reconnect the rear and remove the front. With the drive shaft removed you can check the u-joints better as well.

Here's another

How long was it at 234? What was the average?

When you say overheating do you mean the gauge is going into the red? Have you used an OBDII scanner to get the temp?

I had a vibration that I couldn't figure out. U joints on front and rear drive shaft seemed ok. I disconnected the rear driveshaft and drove it in 4wd. I only had to go about 100 feet when it was obvious it was the front drivesahft. For some reason with the rear attached it reduced the front...

I have an Atwood but they're all similar. How far will you be towing it?

I tow a boat/trailer that weighs 3200 lbs. 175,000 miles 3.4 AT 4WD I added a trans cooler and that's it. I tow on flat land with some small hills. Trailer has surge brakes. Stock type shocks and springs.

In the process of repairing attempted theft damage. Any tips on replacing the back seat vent window? thanks