I think I got the same issue as you. Mine did it before I installed the new trans., lift and tires. It's kinda like a real bad hum you would get from a bad wheel bearing. But they're all good. I checked the u-joints when I installed the trans and they were good. Inspected the drive...
That"s awesome!!! I'll have to give it try the next time I'm doing some exhaust work or something.
Ya think a higher Scoville rating would help the extra stubborn ones? :)
Hot sauce?? Seriously? I've heard of oil of wintergreen and 50/50 acetone and transmission fluid but never hot sauce. I really hope you're not suggesting using a torch on rusted fuel lines:) That would get pretty interesting.
Idle air control valve. Bolts on the bottom of the throttle body. They get gummed upped and act crazy sometimes. You can try removing the t-body and removing the valve and cleaning it. The 4 phillips screws that hold it are tight!! But it'll probably come back after a while.
I'll look in the morning to be sure, but I got on a t-case out of a early 99. Plain jane style without the actuator(on the back). I live in Va. and I will be going to OBX this coming Sat. Pm me if interested. $100. Singtoe is closer and will install though.
I was just wondering if it would blow when the taillights are on and then you press the brake pedal. Regardless if its moving or engine running.
By unplugging the entire taillight assembly one at a time. You can isolate which side is giving you a problem.
I'd bet money your problem is in one...
Does it blow when you press the brake pedal after a short time? Or just when it's put in drive? Sounds like you may just have a bad bulb( elements touching) Try unplugging the tail light one side at a time and see what happens.
^What he said.
In the morning, turn the key on(not running) and jumper Fp and B+ in your diagnostic port on the intake. I believe your year still has the Fp pin. That will run the fuel pump. Hop in and see if it starts quicker. If it's due for a tune-up, by all means do that also. Only other...