Recent content by BigredTEX

Than you rigtec, for the confirmation of where the problem is and where to get the part! The truck is for sale and I don’t feel it would be ethical to sell it with a known problem, regardless of how minor.

Thanks for the response. The relay is the original and it checks out. I was surprised the horns honk using the panic button but will not honk if I jump 12v to the downstream side of the relay, but the alarm horn will honk. This makes no sense to me. However, since the horns honk via the panic...

Need some help from the tech experts. My horn has stopped working. I initially noticed it several weeks ago. Checked the 10A fuse and found it OK. Pulled the relay and swapped it with an identical adjacent relay and the horn worked. Replaced the original relay and the horn continued to work, so...

This is my complaint as well. Air temp seems fine, just not enough of it.

This is the first time to hear there is a separate procedure for Trail/TRDOR. I've got the exact same issue including the Power Steering Warning light, though it comes and goes rather than solid on. I haven't tried to do a zero point reset yet, but if there is a different procedure for a Trail...

It was the front skid. It cracked on both sides at the transition as it curves from slanted in the front to flat along the bottom. He took photos and sent them to RCI. They warrantied it from the photos and didn't want it back so it went into the recycling bin.

I've got the steel and my son had the aluminum until it cracked is two places. He placed it with steel, warrantied by RCI (they gave him the choice of wither). Should be no clearance issues with either the sway bar relocation or diff drop. If you have no plans for anything really challenging...

I have RCI and like it. The biggest advantage is that one RCI skid is equivalent to two Shrockworks or BudBuilt skids when it comes to coverage. Quality and strength are very good.

Of all my mods, re-gear to 4.56 has made the greatest difference in performance. I went to 285/70's upon delivery of the truck and now run 285/75's. Wish I had done it years ago.

I concur, but a better option is a panhard relocation bracket. I corrects the geometry and it cured the lean for me. The lean became more obvious after I went to MetalTech long travel. Truck now sits level.

I've heard rumors of the "Radflo clunk". That very well may be it. Next time i'm in there I'll have to check it out.

I have not replaced the sway bar bushings but have removed and inspected the bushings and end links. Everything looks good.

I have been chasing a clunk in my front left for over a year. So far I have replaced lower control arms (includes bushings and ball joint), upper ball joint (I have Light Racing UCA's), removed and re-installed UCA's to inspect and grease bushings, replaced inner tie rods (they were bad)...

Everything comtn4x4 said, including the spare tire storage issue. I've been running 285/75 Cooper ST/Maxx for quite some time and haven't had any rubbing issues, but I had already done the BMC and fender trim years ago when I went to 285/70. All tires are not created equal with regard to...

I just installed the bushing on my 2012 w/ 83K on the clock. When I pulled the needle bearing there was one needle missing, but was generally intact. It didn't fix the loose clunk that I'm getting on the front left at low speed and low load, but it did tighten up the CV axle. I've replaced lower...