Recent content by Bombguy

Did the motor on mine a month ago, but messed up and got the cable spool unwound. Rewinding it has things off kilter now for the regulator... so, since I'm in the same boat of not finding good guidance, I'm leaning towards a dealer repair unless someone has a suggestion for how to fix on my own?

Tried that too, no luck. And - on the off chance maybe the switch wasn't engaging, ran the window all the way down and back up again today. Still nothing.

Nope, checked that, several times.

2017 just started with an unusual problem. The rear/side defrost, rear wiper, and rear washer fluid are now all not working. Rear window up and down DOES still work. I've checked all the fuses I can ID, and all look fine - plus, if it was a fuse I wouldn't expect all three to be out of...

I ordered the QR brackets for mine, they have a range of adjustability that may solve your problem.

This would also be a good choice as in many areas the light bar is not street legal, and is actually a safety hazard for road driving.

I've used a Console Vault brand for years with good results - it will definitely hold a full-sized 1911 or a G19; not sure on a 6" revolver though.

Worth getting your alternator output checked. That was the cause of mine.

Oh, that's the most ludicrous bit. Only extras were the roof rack and a $1k "ceramic coating" package. It was 100% a "we can get away with it" thing.

Was picking up a new Toyota (not 4Runner) for my wife yesterday in the DC Metro area. 23 TRD Pro on the lot - $75,000 including $2k "Market Value" markup! :O

Interesting - I've had really good luck with the NOCOs on my end, but haven't been down to anything near the temperatures you're discussing. As you implied, I think they just aren't designed to hold a charge and work that low.