Recent content by BUGSEY

My 92 3L 4Runner was on the short of anti-freeze and froze up. Usually once the engine warmed up it would open up but this time I drove a block too far and the rad busted along the bottom. Now my pocket is busted. It's -10 outside, I don't have a garage so I got stealershiped by a Rad shop...

I'm worried about using a torch near the gas tank (outdoors), should I be? ...and would a micro-torch be either safer or better than a regular one? http://tinyurl.com/ojfjl73

Thanks for your reply! Good point, if that's simply a pass-thru I could use a single line junction. That rear sure is leaking & not much room to do a coupling. I bought a double in-line flaring tool & lines. I want to keep that junction due to trying to unscrew the opposite nut on the junction...

I'm looking for the best way to free the rusted brake line nut at the junction under drivers seat then again at the flex hose at rear differential? I plan to run the new line on top of the frame and attach with nylon strapping. Would channel locks or vise grips be more gentle on that junction...

Well, I'm now totally confused. I've got a 2003 4Runner 4L Sport with 17" wheels. I'll be using Poly-Armour PVF Japanese Brake Line - 3/16" to replace a section of brake line from under drivers seat right through to the hose above the differential. Do I use an SAE or Metric brake flaring tool...

Another passenger here in this 4th Gen ship. Any comments if this HF tool to separate the hub from bearing and then press the new bearing into the old (or new) hub works without a press? Any rec's for tools needed with or without a press? FWD Front Wheel Bearing Adapters What's the best...

4R 2003 Xreas Noise over bumps... Small knocking sound over small bumps seemingly from passenger side front and rear, driving me crazy. Had 4 front end inspections 3 diff garages nothing noticibly loose or worn. This is my 4th 4Runner, I'm considering going back to my 92 4R and selling this...