Recent content by Camps

Yep, that makes sense, now that I'm looking at it. Well....I don't have a way to cut the bolt off....What do you think about only using one bolt for the bracket into the A pillar? Safe?

I'm afraid to drill that hole in the A pillar as there seems to be something behind it. will that plastic thing behind the A pillar come into play when drilling the hole (the hole closest to the dash)? Does anyone know what that is behind there? I think ElectroBoy mentioned something about it?

Life got in the way. Moved last summer, when I had planned on doing the swap. Definitely swapping in an engine this summer, as soon as Tim and I can hang out together without any social distancing. I’m leaning towards getting a fully dressed rebuild from Yotashop. We’ll definitely document the...

Like Jahmiroquai suggested, swap with 2 and 4 and see what pops. When I was throwing parts at my cylinder 1 misfire, I acquired a used ECU to rule that out. Same code popped. Now, I have an extra ECU. Let me know if you’re interested; super easy swap that takes 30 min.

bump

still for sale

Man, that sounds awfully familiar. Check that crankshaft for any movement.

I had a similar experience. Basically did everything you did and still got the 301 code. Although, I never got the 300 code. Here's the thread where we documented everything; lot's of good info here: Misfire Problem - Could use some help Hope it doesn't turn out like mine....Good Luck.

PM replied

*SOLD* 4 stock wheels and tires off my 2017 TRD ORP. Close to 2k miles on them so practically brand new. They've been sitting in my garage ever since. I'm in the South Bay Area; looking for local pick up only. Can meet half way around the bay. Includes valve stems, but no TPMS sensor...

I connected mine to the ignition; leds on when truck is on.

I know this was a few years ago, but curious to your method of securing the center caps in the wheel?

Looks smooth! What lift and tires did you go with?

So we hooked it up to the techstream and was able to freeze the frame, just don’t know what we’re looking for. Short FT was -0.04% and Long FT was 0.74%. We also tested the voltage for the ECU for each cylinder: 1 = 10.5 2 = 11.5 3 = 12.1 4 = 12.1 5 = 12.1 6 = 10.3 All fall within spec of 9 -...

Couldn’t get it off. Got 1 nut off, but the other wasn’t gripping. There’s a shield that covers half of the sensor, making it difficult to get anything in there other than a socket. We might end up cutting the shield off to get some pliers in there.