Recent content by cap10

If it was me. I would go ahead and pull your heads and do a valve job. All you will have left to do is exhaust manifold bolts and head bolts and your heads will be free. If I remember right, the worst part of that job is removing the exhaust crossover pipe and only because the bolts are hard...

I was right about the Air Meter being the reason for the fuel pump staying on. I dug through all the parts I had and found another Meter that seems to work fine. The only problem I am having at the moment is that its really slow to build up speed on the highway. Its weird because I get a fast...

Yes… When I bought my runner it was not running. It had a motor that had a blown head gasket. I also acquired lots of parts in the buy. I believe my problem might be in the Mass Air flow sensor ? A friend of mine lent me his from his "93 and when I plugged it in the fuel pump did not come...

I would pull the engine and tranny and sell it local. At the least , post it on C.L. for local pick up only and see what ya get. I dont know where you live but it looks like maybe someplace where they salt the roads? Do they salt roads anymore? I was born in Ohio and I remember that they...

What year ? How many miles? If its a high mileage motor then you may have problems that cannot be fixed by changing oil. If your motor is NOT a high mileage motor then it could be a number of minor things that could cause a oil light to come on when its not supposed to.

I have never had any luck with any tranny "fix" that came out of a bottle . What I would suggest is to go ahead and drop your tranny pan and do a filter and fluid change. Once you remove your pan you should be able to get a overall idea on the condition of your transmission. I have never did...

I have a 1990 4x4 with a 3.0 that I have put togather from 3 different engines and I have some issues that I hope you guys can help me with. It seems like its starving for fuel but I am not sure how to check the fuel pump pressure since there is no valve on the fuel rail like most engines...

have you checked the compression in all cyl.?

Please excuse my last post. Like I said I was not fully awake. After I posted my reply I reread your first post and it looks like you have already came to the same conclusion that I had. Sorry, I dont mean to waste your time. Sounds like you have tried everthing I have suggested except...

I had a long night and not fully awake so please excuse any typos. From what I have read from your post I would put my money on the fact of you having a plugged water jacket. Either in the block or the head/heads. When you talk about rust etc.etc. then you talk about blockage. I really...

Wow ! With all that work done you should be making ice cubes ! I would check how much water your motor is pushing through its system when running at a idle. Remove your thermostat and take off one end of the return hose to your radiator and place it in a large bucket. Put a garden hose in...

Great info but I am a little confused about how you go about checking to see if my engine is at idle or not. IF it drops when I jump the connector then I am at idle already correct?

Wow! Thats a lot of stuff to think around. What I would do first is do a visual on the motor in the dark. With the engine running its a lot easier to see a wire that is grounding out. How many miles on the motor? I have seen motors that have great compression because of a recent valve job...

I used to use the good ol paper clip method until a friend of mine loaned me his scanner that had several adapters that allowed the obd2 scanner to plug right into where the paper clip is used. It worked great.

It really does not matter much at this point but did you find much "slop" in your timing chain? When you take it to a machine shop they can tell you if the head has been reworked before.