Recent content by CBR Rider

Royal Purple 5W30. 7,000 miles.:driving:

I did it!!:dancin: Anyone who may have to do this on their 3rd gen 4Runner - here is the trick: 1. You take the panel off under the steering wheel and remove the fuel pump relay. 2. You take off the gas cap to remove any vac. in the tank. 3. You run the truck until it stalls...

Don't confuse your old Jeep with a Toyota. The 4Runner is a far superior vehicle! As for the adhesion of the oil to the engine, that will be more due to the additives that are put in the oil by the mfg than the viscosity. That's why you want a high quality oil - higher quality additive pack...

I have run 5W30 and 10W30 in my `98 4Runner here in NC w/out any issues. The truck has 129K on it now and still going strong. Winter I usually run 5W30, but summer I switch back and forth depending on my mood and what Advance Auto has sitting nearest my grubby hands :D I haven't really...

Larry is right, you can go back and forth from synthetic to dyno. In fact, most synthetics will say on the bottle if they are compatible with dyno or other oils or not. You would just not get the full benefits of the synthetic - so it doesn't make much sense. The only time you have to worry...

OK, couldn't find any schrader valve on the fuel rails to relieve pressure. Also, the nuts still won't give. I made sure that I wasn't be silling and turning something I shouldn't be and that I am turning the right direction (some of the threads are showing). I am using I wrench on the nut...

Maybe I just need to get "pumped up":) , but I was tugging on that wrench something fierce. I figured that a pressurized fuel line was the only explanation. Well... back under the truck I go to :monkey: around some more...

I am trying to change the fuel filter in my `98 4Runner, but am not sure how to relieve the pressure from the fuel system so that I can remove the old filter. Does anyone have any hints / tips???:dunno: Thanks very much for any help!:bowdown: