Recent content by Coward

I burned a valve on mine at 370k. For years I had pinging issues from time to time along with someone hesitant acceleration. I had my heads rebuilt and runs amazing to this day (+50k). I assumed the reason for burned valve was carbon buildup and a small piece caused the valve damage. I agree...

Any pinging or knocking prior to all this when driving?

If you like your truck and it was running fine before, I say rebuild it. Why give up on it for $2500. And/or why buy a used motor when you already have one. Just my two cents. I rebuilt my heads a few years ago. Around $1,000 for parts and the machine work was $550 I think? I did all the other...

I bought it in May of 1998 with 33,000 miles on it. Still, nearly 22 years as a daily driver isn't bad.

Yea, I wanted to make the state line where fuel was $.15 cheaper! :-) Never thought much about the fuel pump (1st one died at 315k) but I do worry about tank sediment. Now my 01' Audi S4? Fuel pump was LOUD below 1/4 tank.

I routinely push mine to 17 gallons or so at fill up. My personal best was 19.1 gallons and it was starving for fuel as I rolled in the gas station. Like others I push it 50 miles or so when the light comes on. My average for the last 175 fill ups was 14.9 gallons and 253 miles.<GPS verified

Those are nice UCA! Looks like you will need to clearance the body now that your alignment has been corrected. or a body lift. Someone else correct me, but if you install those LCA with the ball joint moved forward you will have crazy caster. I would think you would need adjustable uppers as...

Here is what I recommend. Do it right! (Prices last year from Camelback Toyota) WATER PUMP 16100-6939883 $100.31 IDLER ROLLER 13503-62040 $90.80 TENSIONER ROLLER 13505-62070 $121.40 TENSIONER 13540-62021 $41.60 T COVER GSKT UP 11319-20010 $4.61 I needed T COVER GSKT LWR 11328-20020...

"You gotta learn to wrap the engine RPM up more with the manual. I’m used to manual cars that have good torque down low- the 3.4l does not. When I first did the swap, I was driving it like my manual cars, and that’s why it seemed doggy. Surprisingly, I still get 14-15MPG on the 37” KO2s, and I...

Before and after. I don't have hub to fender but I do have ground to fender with the same tires before and 10 days after the lift. Front was 34.5 and then 37.5 inches Rear was 35.25 and then 39.25 inches Both have settled I would say 1/2 inch in 3 years.

Lots of good advice listed above. At 225,000 miles you should budget for replacing everything up front (unless any of it is relatively new). -Upper ball joints -Lower ball joints -Outer tie rods (inners should be good) -This is a great time to do the control arm bushings as well. -If you lift...

I have a 1996 manual that burned a valve. I pulled the heads off myself and had them worked over at a machine shop. They replaced 2 valves and all the guides and seals for $650. The heads were not warped. I replaced all seals and gaskets associated with pulling the heads off along with the...

Weight of the tires is the biggest factor. Your stock wheels and tires were 60.5lbs each. 265/70/17 K02's C range tires with those wheels weigh 73 lbs each. That's a 21% increase in rolling mass you have to push around. That certainly hurts performance. Now, I'm running a wheel/tire combo...

I agree with this statement. If there is not much elevation change during the drive it will do all you need just fine. And so long as the drive is uneventful, your truck will handle the lake trips for what maybe 10 times a year? The issues come into play in the oh crap moments. That much weight...

Yea, something is way off. How long have you owned it? How long since you installed the lift components? It has to be driving wicked like that!