Recent content by Dezert4Runner

I used this when I installed mine 3 years ago and haven’t had any leaks. When pulling the oem bolts out for the first time, you’re usually ruining the sealant that’s used from the factory. I’d address it before finding out the hard way if it’s still water proof.

That looks like the door lock motor breather to me.

I’ve had Weathertechs in my manual 2000 since I got it in 2015. I have over 100k miles driven with them and no issues. In fact, they were swapped from my 1996 (automatic) into the 2000 so they have a couple years in that vehicle too. They’re super durable. The hook on the factory carpet holds...

2001-2002 has a different hard brake line configuration than previous years. As far as I’m aware, that’s the only exception assuming you’re differentiating a 1996-2000 non elocker axle housing from an elocker housing since there is a notch in it.

For a 2” lift you can totally get away with just bending the brake line bracket down. It will bend quite a bit to allow some extra slack. If I was in your spot I’d either bend the bracket or order the right one but I suppose the excessively long one won’t be an issue either.

I had similar symptoms before my fuel pump died on me but I could see it being starter contacts too. Not entirely sure how to troubleshoot your issue but starter contacts are cheap to do, it’s just removing the starter that kinda sucks!

BORA makes hub centric in everything except for the 1/4” size from what I’ve seen. You should be able to run the 1” without shaving the original studs but I don’t remember seeing any 3rd gens running that particular size. It seems to be pretty popular with the 2005+ Tacoma/ 2003+ 4Runner/ GX...

2wd or 4wd? 2wd easiest way is to get a Solo Motorsports 3” lift spindle, keep your 3” RC shock and do a 3” body lift. That will keep the geometry reasonable and you can still get an alignment so it drives decent. This is probably a $2k option, so not exactly cheap. 4wd is much more...

Finally got around to installing my East Detailing steering wheel cover. I’m happy with the results but it was a bigger project than I anticipated. The original leather was super grimy and took a lot of scrubbing to get clean enough for the tape to stick. I also ended up doing full stitching...

I finally grabbed one of the East Detailing covers after eyeballing them for months while keeping an eye out for a more pristine wheel off a part-out 3rd gen, to no avail. Took about a month to show up, but I’m impressed with the quality that you get for the price. I’ll be pulling the wheel and...

Replaced one of my cats recently (rear cat) after first determining I had no exhaust leaks. Borrowed a friends Harbor Freight infrared temp gun and found out the rear cat wasn’t operating right. There’s a few videos on Youtube showing a quick explanation of what you need to be looking for and...

Do you have the castle nut piece that slides over the actual axle nut? It’s what the cotter pin is going to lock into. The link below explains it well with photos. There’s a photo with the Toyota part number in case you need to order one. CV Axles - Napa new - can't get cotter pin locked |...

You’re running the Tundra/ Sequoia axles, correct? Sounds like it’s torqued to spec but the nut needs to be turned slightly more to align the hole in the axle with the slot on the nut. Similar to what often happens on the lower ball joint nut. A photo would help confirm that we’re talking about...

I wouldn’t drive without the panhard, personally. If the upper rear control arms were triangulated it would be fine but the panhard is the main left to right axle locator. Ratchet straps should get your panhard where it needs to be to bolt it up, even if it seems a little short. The panhard...