Recent content by DrewZ28

When I did the swap I used all NEW parts. I did not bed the pads as people say to do on here. I did do several "panic stops" to activate the ABS before bleeding a second time though.

Sorry, I guess I did miss it. I did not think the MC with ABS had the bigger bore? Are you running this? Any issues with the ABS?

Yeah, from what I've read it's hit or miss on brake pedal feel. I don't know why, but unfortunately I'm in the not so great category. I am definitely going to revisit the bleeding of the brakes though. I think I'm going to swap over to the 13WE setup as that seems to be the way to go with zero...

You've hit my concern head on. I've looked at the parts breakdown in the FSM and there is no proportioning valve in the MC, just the 2 pistons and springs, HOWEVER, it looks like the pistons and springs setup in a non-ABS vs ABS MC is different. I believe the physical design of the MC itself...

This almost exactly describes my situation. I think the 1 ton T100 booster/master may fix that, but I haven't been able to get anyone who has done it to speak up about whether the ABS will still opperate correctly or not.

I have not tried bleeding the MC again since I installed it. Definitely going to give that a try. I have bled the brakes this way. So I do have a very good understanding of brake and hydraulic systems. The pedal does not sink to the floor with the key off and booster depleted. It feels more like...

Mine is a 97. From what I understand it's the 01-02's that need the scan tool to bleed. I have tried locking up the ABS and re-bleeding. It doesn't act like air is in the system. It acts like there is not enough hydraulic pressure at the front calipers. Since the calipers take more fluid over...

Yes, I know I need the 1 Ton MC and booster. But deleting the ABS or not is what I am wondering from anyone who has done it. I haven't found a definite answer searching through the forums. EDIT: I have read on a Camry and Supra forum that the only difference is the ABS MC's just have a larger...

I have not seen or read anything about this being possible. The booster/master out of the 1 ton T100 will bolt tight in. The Tundra booster is much larger and may not fit. The MC will not work with our booster. And the MC bore is actually smaller than ours. The T100 bore is slightly larger.

That is correct. The one with the larger bore is on the 1 ton without ABS. The booster would have to be swapped out with it so it mounts up.

Ok, I've spent countless hours researching and reading old threads. I have the 13WL Tundra brakes on my 97 4Runner Limited. New master cylinder, all new rear brakes including wheel cylinders, and steel braided brake lines front and rear. Drums are adjusted correctly and the system has been bled...

Do you have any additional info on this? With the hoses in the reservoir, it should suck fluid back in when released. I bench bled mine the traditional way as well but I'm chasing a soft pedal issue with 13WL brakes. In theory, if the master is sucking fluid back in, it will still bleed...

From what I have read, that screw is just a piston stop. It prevents the pistons in the master cylinder from completely bottoming out. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong on that.

With the overall size of the caliper being different, won't the 13WL caliper take more fluid than the 13WE? At least this is the conclusion I've come to with my research.

I'm about to do this, but can anyone verify there won't be any ABS issues with the non-ABS master cylinder?