Recent content by Ed_C

I haven't been on this forum for months now due to the site suddenly redirecting me to another site I just tried switching browsers hoping it would help, used to log in with Chrome but on MS Edge at the moment. After a few minutes logged in I get redirected to a site claiming to be Verizon...

This one to the left of the pic? It's power and ground for the projectors' LED drivers, appears to be a 9005/9006 male like some HID ballasts use. The connector coming out the opposite end of the driver plugs into the connector on the projector. The two really thin black wires from the projector...

Odd, could've sworn my indicator worked...no longer have the 4Runner so I can't verify. I also did some (reversible) rewiring of the DRL circuit to keep the lowbeams on with the highbeams so that may have had something to do with it

The harness he included probably does connect the highbeam solenoids directly to the OEM highbeam circuit so there's an actual load. The solenoids don't draw as much current (even two solenoids per headlight) as halogen highbeams so there's no need to use relays. A small 9-volt battery can even...

How did you wire them harness-wise? If I recall my highbeam indicator worked with my retro. I plugged the highbeam solenoids directly to the OEM wiring so there was a true resistive load in the circuit. I didn't have fogs, rewired the OEM circuit to turn on only with highs to power a hidden LED...

I just realized the "L" versions of the S8s he uses do have an extra heatsink above the projector bowl for the additional highbeam emitter, but otherwise the same projectors dimensionally. So he'd definitely have to modify the existing design to clear the heatsinks, or the end user doing...

Finally, someone here did that quad retro. And your cutoffs are straighter than Ziggys LOL Pretty smart idea, looks stealthier than the "Ruminsport" projector + reflector headlights from years ago. Simpler to wire too I bet, there's really no need for a relay harness since those LED drivers...

Not 4Runner specific, but a friend is printing these adapters so I can use easily sourced universal bulb sockets instead of the odd-shaped OEMs for our CRV's tail lights. I'm converting the signal and reverse sections to switchback LEDs so the tails will have dual signals and reverse. He's...

You're better off sticking with the OEM "housings" anyway. I've had two or three aftermarket headlights and they all fit like crap; like you can see how warped the housings were before bolting down one of the lower mounting locations (must've been sourced by the same manufacturer because they...

Not available separately, you have to get the whole "frame" (Toyota calls them housings).

My "hot" misfire ended up being the wires, ordered the NGK wire set from Rock Auto. I previously swapped the spark plugs around to rule those out (still had the flashing MIL and same code for the same cylinder), but I did install new ones while changing the wires.

Had a similar issue when I did the driver side plate, one stud snapped off (thankfully no exhaust leak). The other end of the air tubes use the same flanges; I installed the plate there and since they're below the intake manifold the studs and nuts weren't rusty and came off without a fight. I...

6mm x 1.0 thread, like every nut and bolt requiring a 10mm wrench/socket on a Toyota.

Paging brillo_76

What are you running for engine management?