Recent content by Elitepass010

That's a sweet rig...... I do t plan on widening mine. Will be moving fire wall, and eliminating front wheel wells. As well as moving rear wells back 20 some inch. And of course full width axles

Yeah I'm in between the frames... . Ford frame would be easier, custom frame more convenient for doulbe tri. 4link. Was thinking of using the ford cross members and facing new main beams. To (member) putting a bb454 in to a Honda civic makes no sense either. But it makes for one bad a**...

Unless you are talking about a steering knuckle drop there is no diffrent to a bracket drop on a IFS or a suspension lift on a solid axle. The differential will still be at the same height from the ground. So that's a mute point. This conversation was about a cv axle bind on a IFS due to a...

Tour other option would be to do a proper suspension lift, vs just a shock lift..... thus retaining the proper suspension travel and eliminating any bind (proper suspension lift will raise chassis while leaving suspension and diff at current height) example would be this rough country lift...

Remove both ends of half shaft and front drive shaft, cover holes though only temp and stay out of water and mud. Also disconnect any wiring if it has electric diff locks or selector gear

If u have a good mig or tig welder you can build up the teeth ends with weld, and carefully trim with a carbide wheel. Be careful on how much heat you apply, and do not qulch it or you will make the part brittle. Have been doing this on torn up drive gears for years, but this is only a temp fix

Personally I think throwing a bunch of bolt on's at a vehicle is a waste of time. I am a fabricator so naturally I like to take what every one thinks is crazy and turn it into a beautiful rig. Like taking a 68 mustang and turning it into a tractor pull truck. So anyways this sr5 only cost me...

Bumb

A diff drop will always help. The closer to level ur cv axles are the better and longer they last. Check ur steering rack angles , to steep of a angle and it can cause some binding and will also cause wheel bumb

When it comes to scanners u get what u pay for. A good scanner with dtC (vehicle specific codes), abs, and live data are gonna cost you 500 to 1k depending on the ability. Example my snap on scanner handles all of the above and then some.... works for pre-obd, obd 1, obd 2, obd 3. As well as...

My last dyno of engine and trans combo with 4.10 gears and 37 tires was 225 hp @ rw and 590 tq @ re and that was under a 8k lb truck

Wish the motor only weight 500lbs... balance would not increase in front.... weight of extra transfer case would add another 120 in the center. 7.3 weighs 920lbs dry 1015 lbs wet, I'm more worried about how to add more weight to rear to keep traction

Did consider a sb 350....... but that's not original enough for me

Would like ideas and comments on possibly stuffing a ford 7.3L idi diesel into 84. Thinking zf5 speed with a double np203/bw1350 and 1 ton fords front and rear on custom frame. 7.3 also already has a bank's turbo installed

Just run it, computer will automatically reset it after about 50 miles or so. If you have a scanner with Toyota dtc and abs capacity you cant reset the comp