Recent content by fullboogie

Couple of sensitive little ones on here today. Straighten out the panties and calm down. I expected there to be thicker skins on a guy oriented forum and I was obviously wrong. I'll go back to perusing the dozens of light bars and big tire threads...

Same exact symptoms I've had after each oil change. Good to know someone else has experienced this first hand - misery loves company! Seems to give me problems for a week or more, then it slowly gets less and less frequent until it runs normal. Anywhere from a week to three weeks. If the...

Always willing to take recommendations - I'll check it out tomorrow. We just read that differently, Black. If using 10-30 caused such a serious problem as mine, I wouldn't think Toyota would be OK with it staying in for 5K or more miles. But I see your point, and I'm hoping I can say "lesson...

Blackworks, thanks a ton for the info. I am very familiar with how VVT works, as I've had it in several vehicles including several late model 4.6 GT's and my current GT500. I've even installed cam phaser lockouts on my GT's for aftermarket cam use. None of them have been hyper sensitive to such...

Given that you haven't contributed shit to this thread, you won't be missed.

Because I'm hell bent on causing myself problems and destroying the engine. Read the manual - it calls for 10-30 in my climate. But thanks for the intelligent contribution. Exactly.

Yep. Mobil 1 10-30. More on that below. Never heard of having to reset the ECU for an oil change on any vehicle I've ever owned. Why would I have to do that?? Took the truck to a local Toyota guru suggested by Preacher. He hooked up a SnapOn scan gauge and found nothing - no codes either...

I've posted three threads about this problem and have realized it only happens when I change the oil. After every oil change since I purchased my '08 V6 two years ago, I have a massive loss of power/acceleration. It is intermittent, and lasts for several days then goes away until the next oil...

You realize you still have to adjust the position of the cable, right? Just as if you were installing a new cable. Otherwise you will have the symptoms you described.

It's worked for me for nearly 2 years.

You don't need to replace the cable for that break. Mine looks like that too. I don't have a pic of my fix, but I'll try to describe it. You're going to use two zip ties to fix it. Place one zip tie on the black cable housing, just above the white shoulder, and tighten it until it is almost...

I'm fairly certain there will be zero interest in these, but I have a set of OEM running boards off my 2008 SR5 that are just laying around. Free to whoever wants to pick them up. I'm in the Houston area. PM me and we can arrange for a pick up.

Edited after reading the OP again.

Is it the rivets that are giving you trouble or the hinge pin, or both? If just the rivets, drill the rivets out. Measure the hole where the rivets were located, and buy new aluminum or stainless ones at Home Depot. A decent rivet gun only costs about $15. So for less than $20 you've repaired it...

That's some big-ass white lettering.