Recent content by Furagwa

Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like the front one ended up being an inch longer than the rear one. You mentioned having to grind the side down to fit into the bracket. Was that still true on when you used the RR on the LF?

If I understand correctly the RF link is the only one that is now different, i.e. the others are all (except for length) based on the RR? And was the front one also 13.5 inches? Thanks.

Something else you might want to consider is to look for a replacement in a junkyard. Good luck, whatever you choose to do...

I can't remember how long the existing hydraulic ram is, but I think it's on the order of 14 inches or a bit shorter. The top end has a bolt hole, but the bottom end is connected to the sway bar using a clamp similar to the way a piston connects to a crank shaft. This is why I want to try using...

Yes, I know the thickness is different between the stock and KDSS systems. Before I go through the hassle of converting to stock I thought I'd give my idea a try...

I don't have the exact same problem, but I have been trying to reach the same end point. I plan to simply fabricate fixed links to replace the hydraulic rams. This would utilize the existing sway bars and not require switching to the non-KDSS sway bar setup. I would then have to disconnect the...

I had a phone conversation with DrKDSS a year ago when my rear ram started seeping. At that time he told me he has taken them apart and there is no way to repair or rebuild them. I didn't ask him to elaborate and took him at his word. You may want to reach out to him if you want more clarity on...

Thanks for your feedback. I mostly drive on road, so I theorize (hope) that I shouldn't notice too much difference there. I do not rock crawl, so I'm not worried about reduced travel. As for dirt/sand/gravel who knows?

My current plan is to replace the hydraulic ram with a fixed link that is constructed from the passenger side fixed link, i.e. cutting it in half and making it the same length as the hydraulic ram. While I would lose the travel provided by the hydraulic ram, I am thinking the result would be no...

My 2018 TRD OR developed a seep on the rear hydraulic ram at about 40k miles. I've continued to drive it. I'm not willing to pay the $2k or so the dealer wants to replace it, so at some point I plan to remove it.

My 2018 TRD OR developed a rear leak at 40k miles. I was quoted $2k to replace it. Dom (Dr KDSS) told me that the hydraulic rams are not rebuildable (based on him having dissected them). If true, then this is contrary to some of the posts above. I am in the slow process of having a rigid drop...

A few years ago I had a fiasco with my 2018 TRDOR keys. I was trying to add a key, but the programming kept failing. At first they thought it was a bad replacement key, but later they figured out that my vehicle already had 6 keys registered so they could not add the new one. They had to first...

Yes, buying the opposite (passenger side) links is what I thought I said. They should fit on both ends. As for the harshness of the ride, I would be pretty surprised if having two rigid drop links would negate all the effect of the shocks although I can imagine it would be stiffer than the...

I have been puzzled by the large number of suggestions to install the "normal" sway bars. What I have been looking at is retaining the existing KDSS sway bars and replacing the hydraulic rams with a fixed drop link. These longer links would be constructed by buying the existing front and rear...

My 2018 TRD OR had a rear hydraulic ram leak around 40k, so it was out of warranty. I am still looking into removing KDSS completely so have not proceeded with replacing the leaking ram.