Recent content by geohil

Sorry - sold my runner too. Playing in the supercharged Tundra world now.

Before you toss it on make sure there isn't too much play in the rotor-pack that would indicate a bad needle bearing or coupler. Last thing you want is the rotors to touch when spinning at speed and send metal into your motor. Lots of affordable rebuild kits out there or I really enjoyed...

Here is what Gadget from URD told me: "Engine off, note the position of the valve. Start the engine, the valve should now be all the way in the other position. If does not work that way, figure out why." This does not account for small pin hole leaks in the vacuum line leading to the actuator...

Check your vacuum actuator (round black thing on the back driver side of the SC). If you have a leak or if it is broken your S/C will limit or eliminate boost.

I can hear the relay when the ABS is shut off. I don't recall if I remember hearing any more when it used to work? And yes - even the pic I posed above is from one of those posts. Very frustrating! Close to just ordering a cable conversion.

Apparently I need to re-check them again. Along with the ECU.

After finding this picture - my bypass wires that I was going to explain to you were all wrong. I do have a multi-meter and decent understanding of electronics so checking each component may be exactly what I need. Where did you find the schematic?

This has nothing to do with this thread - but let me say we should all appreciate the knowledge we have here on T4R. I picked up a supercharged Tundra to replace my 3rd gen only because we have a 6000lbs boat to haul and I've joined 3 forums and no one could even answer an ADD differential...

Sorry to do this y'all but my searching has come up blank. I'm about ready to pull my hair out. Here is the deal. Broke the ring gear in my rear end about a year ago. Figured I'd take the opportunity to switch to 4.88 gears. Had it done professionally and now that it is re-assembled I...

Apparently some people share our pricing dreams... https://salem.craigslist.org/ctd/6142035972.html

Thanks for the offer - I scored an extra button and 4wd ECU yesterday from a local junk yard. What I may be needing soon is the limit switch sensor that actually goes on the diff. We shall see.

Not sure if I have a different diff - but there isn't a cover on mine. Only way to access internal is to disconnect the driveshaft and pull the third from the front. May have found something that may exclude the limit switch anyway. Last night I set my rig in 4-Low in gravel and hit the diff...

So I need to pull the whole 3rd out again? Took me twice just to get it to seal properly last time and not leak...so I'm apprehensive. But if that is what is needed I'll give it a go. I'm not certain what/how to adjust so I'll spend some time reading the article you linked. Thanks

That could well be it. Do you happen to know how the internal switch works? I assume it grounds out one of the two leads to the sensor? Now that you mention it - the 3rd was dropped by me while installing and fractured the plug for the limit switch. Didn't even think if that it could have...

Additional Info- the locker itself seems to be working fine and will engage and lock the rear diff if I apply voltage directly to it. It seems to be the brain/ecu that is having the issues. When I press the lock button the ECU shuts off the ABS and the diff light on the dash starts blinking, but...