Recent content by gookies

The symptom still showed up after replacing the ball joint, but seems like it's resolved after an alignment. Wondering if my cam bolts were loosening up causing this, double checked and torqued to ~100 ft/lbs. This is a similar thread repair kit I purchased, worked great. Beats replacing the...

Yeah, I did that recently, the new ball joint (Moog) had a typical retaining clip with the two holes. Just wanted a tool to remove/re-install it easier. Did you do the same when re-installing one of these 'horseshoe' retaining clips?

Has anyone else replaced their LCA ball joint with this OEM one? It seems it's from a Hilux and just checked a local dealership's site, it's available to order. Most of the older threads related to LCA replacement stated you had to replace the entire arm. Can anyone identify what brand ball...

Nice, I haven't ordered mine yet since I made this thread, but the 5th gen (part # in original post) is compatible on a 4th gen 4Runner, but has better boots from the posts I've read on here.

Small update - Replaced the ball joint over this past weekend, that was pretty simple with the loaner tool from AdvanceAuto (it's the larger kit you want, 23 piece, kit #46), but the one I removed still seemed okay. Unfortunately, can't test drive because in the process of checking for any...

When I brake, I hear a slight clunk on the front driver side and my vehicle veers to the right slightly. I recently replaced both of my front wheel hub + bearing a month or so ago since I was doing some other work (replacing all my brake lines) and purchased them a few years back knowing I'd...

For anyone who ends up replacing these in the future and ends up shearing off the head of the tank strap bolts due to rust/corrosion, do not bother trying to extract it. Purchase a punch/chisel set and with a 3lb-4lb hammer and remove the welded nut instead. Then, drop in a nut with newly...

I have a similar issue and read previous threads, what did you end up doing to resolve it? Did you remove the shield around the catalytic converter?

After replacing all my brake lines a couple months ago due to rust, I decided to see if I could prevent rust/corrosion on other brake components, like the caliper bleeder valve/screw. I ended up buying vacuum caps that fit very snug over the entire valve + any threads showing and also filled it...

What did you do to get yours out? Seems like cutting the bolt threads with a dremel until it's almost flushed with the plate and then drilling the rest out would be an approach I would take. Think someone earlier said they use an air hammer chisel and another, a multi-tool.

Wanted to provide an update for others who want to try a cheaper pedal booster (possibly before committing to a known brand). My inexpensive aftermarket one from China is still working.

From what I looked at, operating temps are up to ~257F. I'm not too concerned. I'd be surprised if any of the brake lines experienced that kind of temperature during operation. I'll definitely update this post in the future if something fails before the brake lines (frame likely) and I have to...

It's shrink tubing for wire, there's an adhesive/glue on the inner layer, so when it shrinks down and cools, it oozes out and creates a waterproof seal. The OEM line has a similar material applied from factory, in my initial post, you can see the line looks brand new after cutting it off. They...

Finally replaced all my brake lines a couple weeks ago and wanted to test drive it for awhile to check for any leaks before sealing the ends up. I did that this weekend. I'd definitely suggest this to others living in the rust belt, the ends of the lines where there isn't a factory rubber...

Mind showing a picture of the repair? I have similar rust in the area as OP, no rust hole and I took a hammer and tapped around the area, still solid..for now. Also, I recently re-routed the AC drain line.