Recent content by hairbear65

The easiest way I've found to make sure the belt doesn't jump while installing it. Place the belt on the crank....wrap it onto the driver side gear....to hold the belt securing onto that cam gear use a c-clamp ......to get the pass. side gear to align correctly...place a breaker bar with the...

There is air in the system....after changing the head gaskets you need to elevate the front end of the truck with the motor running so the system can work the air out...easiest way for me...works great everytime.

Is it not wanting to run when the engine is cold...like after it sits the night? Does it start and run fine after it's warmed up? If so.... Three things to check. 1) The main relay for the motor,,,I can't remember what its called, but look inside the fuse box under the hood...it'll have a...

Ths engine fan on a V6 is a clutch fan!...Unless your engines spinning...ain't no way the engine fan gonna turn. The fan you hear running has to be the fan for the ac condenser....it should be visible the the grill...for now just unplug the fan...could be a relay, shorted...

So where did the tranny come from that they installed?...Did they rebuild it?...Buy it rebuilt?...or Was it a supposedly good one? Its very possible the trans they ended up using was no good either. I've seen numerous Toyota trannies slip in the 4runners....also blow a huge holes in the side of...

If you mean the white lines marked on the belt...then NO...not important where or how the belt is orientated. This willonly help you if you open the motor back up to see if the belts still in the same place you left it. If you mean the 3 alignments you need so that the cams are in time with the...

Sorry took so long...but no, no pics of it. all you'll need is a L bracket...you can use a piece of angle iron for that matter...material doesn't matter. I mounted just behind the TPS on the plenum. I did tap the the bracket I made and just threaded the knock sensor into it...then just plug it...

I found what I believe to be a miracle...a 88' 4runner...original owner...with 53,000 miles on her....the mileage is documented. V6 loaded...yada...yada...yada Its relatively clean except for a slight rust hole above the rear pass quarter. I can get her for $2500-$2700....other than the rear...

That type was "DEFINITELY" made by Smiitybuilt years ago. They most likely discontinued them and no longer list them as available. Tom

Unless you plan on tearing down just about the entire motor...no way you test it.....it's located underneath the intake manifold! I'd love to know what engineer with too many college degrees to speak of, but no common sense placed this thing where it's at. You can however replace the sensor...

I'm all the way on the other side of the state..near Scranton

Bill, Have you tried running the codes using the "CHECK ENGINE LIGHT"?..if so...Were there any? Tom

Glad to help...Good luck Tom

Stay away from the silicone...silicone will not last on the pump and if it breaks away and gets into the ports in the pump...then you'll be disassembling the entire pump. Tap the shaft like I suggested...swap out the oring (lube the new oring and inside the pump where it will seat)...also pull...

The rear plate has a o-ring that seals the back of the pump. If I'm not mistaken...you pull the rear plate by removing the bolts and then a snap ring....the pump will then slide out the back after also removing the front pulley then tapping on the front shaft...usually either the front seal or...