Recent content by Hesk11dog

check lines running to rear heater. There is a supply and return on the passenger side frame rail. I replaced mine with all rubber when one blew a leak a couple years ago.

dont use 0w-30, 5w-30 will work fine. Refill with 10W-30 for summer. Buy an antifreeze tester to see what your fluid is like. can drain some and refill with coolant to lower the freezing temp. Stay away from rubberized undercoatings. Rinse the frame and wheel wells as often as you can. Common...

when i replaced my master cylinder, I had to pump and bleed maybe 5 times at the slave valve. was not hard and took maybe 5 minutes. Simple and effective

i have hauled 16ft canoes laying both upside down and upright on the factory racks. I recommend getting a J-type kayak hauler that mounts directly to the rails. The universal fit rack mount right up with 4 bolts apiece. I currently use these and leave them up all summer. They fold flat when...

you're freaking lucky to find a manual at the junkyard, in good enough shape, with the parts that you needed. I need your luck/skill. That is pure awesome, glad you fixed the issue. Nothing worse then a crappy pedal.

it is a hard line straight from the master to the slave, might go to rubber where it enters, can't remember. There is a bleeder on the slave. pretty sure that is it, turns mechanical after that.

same issue with late up-lift grab. I've had my 97' standard for 3 years and had to replace the mastercylinder after the first six months because the shaft connected to the plunger snapped!! Yeah, i was driving and made it home with some fancy pedal work with my bare feet. No prior leaks and...

Really impressed on how you are tackling these repairs. Been dealing with rust on mine for a long time including cutting and replacing on the frame. But, as mentioned above, I would seriously recommend having a certified welder (or atleast someone experienced) re-due that plate and mount. I...

if you can find a frame to swap, i would blast and re-coat everything you can and then try to coat the inside with fluid film or something similar before swapping. I've had to weld a couple sections on my frame. A buddy of mine with a beautiful sport had the bracket bust off the frame. A...

that would be your CV (constant velocity) axle boot on the inner side, kinda hard to tell from the picture. Don't think i have ever seen one completely ripped like that. Probably going to have to replace the entire half shaft cause of dirt and water. unless you want to tear apart, clean...

I bought a MC from NAPA and it has been working fine for two years. make sure you bleed the slave properly. Takes a couple times to get all the air out. I had to adjust my master-cylinder push rod multiple times to get it exactly how i wanted it. The FSM gives you a good estimate of where...

check your lines and reservoir to see if you are losing fluid. Definitely sounds like the ABS sensor/system. you can try disabling it and seeing if your problems goes away. one way of knowing it is in fact the ABS...

You can find OEM reboot kits that come with grease on ebay. It is just going to keep flinging grease out till it is sealed so I wouldn't clean it yet. Avoiding non-OEM is most often a smart choice but I did some research before I decided and it just seemed like the NAPA maxdrives were the best...

If you are currently driving it around with a torn boot and plan on rebooting, make sure you do a thorough cleaning of the gears and joint before rebooting as dirt and water can now enter the axle. I tore a boot over the winter and decided on the NEW NAPA (lifetime warranty) half shalf. Was...

saw this on yahoo this morning, freaking awesome picture. Pretty cool to see these rigs used by Vets in Zimbabwe. https://www.yahoo.com/news/elephant-shot-head-walks-truck-205100017.html