Recent content by JCDAD

What color is your truck?

We never use a display. The display is optional on Echomaster. You can front mount with either brand. I believe FIT has a separate kit for this.

We use backup sensors by Echomaster and Voxx (Advent) and all work well. IMO they just look ugly. I offer ones from FIT (first integrated technologies) because they mount from the back and have an identical factory appearance.

I had done mine with plastidip and took it off. I ended up stripping it off and doing overlays. No issues with them.

Same issue. Passenger side beginning to pull off.

right......something is backfeeding into the ignition lead. Just need to see how they have it connected to the amp. My guess is that the turn on circuit of the amp is bad and you may need them to swap. Simple test is to disconnect the amp's power cable or turn on lead and see if it persists.

I personally would use 16awg and make my own. Make the connections at the amplifier. As far as the sub goes you could use 22awg and it will work. But given the application 16awg is ok, However we use 12awg for subs. And most amp kits do have actual rated wire in them. Most are CCA and not...

The reality is that you could connect the wires with bubble gum and it will work. In the end of the day it's a matter of good workmanship that keeps things free from failure. So let that be your moral guide. Factory speaker wire is probably 18awg. Maybe 16awg.

nice video...and yes all of the Diode stuff is top notch. TAT modules look fantastic.

the reason why you use the front speaker wires is because when you fade to the front, the subs will still play. If you tapped into the rears, the sub will fade out when you fade to front. I wouldn't use velcro to mount the amp. Just because it's easy doesn't mean it's good. You can mount it...

I have a single ported 10" woofer in my truck. The box is custom built but is temporary so I can listen to it in various placements. So far the best has been to place the woofer firing upwards. The bass is tighter and it images very well with the bass seeming as if the woofer is in the front...

we tie them into an aftermarket alarm module like Compustar. If client is doing aftermarket fob then they get full control, both with unlock and AUX channel. So with unlock, we time them ON for 30 seconds. And when AUX channel is pressed they stay latched.

it may or may not be a futile effort but Voxx makes a power liftgate for the new Rav4 and several others. It's designed to be model specific and even includes a canbus interface. If the shocks match up and some engineering it might work. You'll end up paying and don't quote me on it but around...

$245 does not sound like a lot if the shop is reputable. They are in business to make a profit and keep the doors open. It's fairly standard for brick and mortar shops to operate at $80-$120 per hour labor, so they probably base it on 2-3 hours of time plus materials. And if they don't they are...

use the Diode Dynamics LED RGB kit with Bluetooth controller. You can choose purple or whatever color you want. Mainly cosmetic but still better than stock.