Recent content by Jeremy556

Good choice. IIRC, I replaced my lowers at somewhere around 300k miles, when one of the bushings tore out. Would recommend you order the through bolts and adjusters along with the arms. I actually pulled my bolts out at around 100k miles and coated them with bearing grease, to try to avoid...

Why? This motor will run for a million miles on 0-20, and the VVTi system is sensitive to oil viscosity. I just did an oil change this afternoon at 390k miles, with Mobil1 0w-20. Have done oil analysis many times, and recently replaced valve cover gaskets. Inside my engine looks better than...

Yep. On the 5th gen the only option is to tap inline of the sensors and signal modification, since there is unfortunately no ability to calibrate, like on other makes.

They managed to make your caster worse. Alignment techs with the knowledge of how to do a proper alignment beyond toe are very few and far between, and the flat rate pay structure disincentives those with the ability. It's a time consuming PITA to chase ideal alignment numbers, as each...

It will work by intercepting the ABS speed sensor signals from each of the wheels and modifying the signal. Pretty simple, but I wouldn't personally introduce 3rd party electronics (especially Rough Country) into my vehicle for not much actual gain. If anything goes wrong with that setup, you...

Yep. She's hefty with a curb weight of close to 6k with all the armor and mods. Been on 34 and 35" mud tires for all but the first 7000 miles. 4.56 gears and front locker. I'm local to Moab, and do all of the trails below Pritchet level. Also spend tons of miles on washboard dirt roads in the...

53510-35260

Superlube sucks for poly bushings. Buy some prothane grease and they will stay quiet for a long time. It's stupid expensive and a PITA because it is super sticky, but it works and well worth the money. I used to have to grease every few thousand miles, now I do like every 25-30k miles.

No need to replace studs if 4 were tight. Those 4 tight studs keep the wheel bore clamped against the hub, so no real stress on the studs. Lost my front right wheel on a twisty back road at 50mph a couple years ago. :peep:

No, you can't change the tensioner without pulling the front cover. If you had metal flakes in your oil, and you're sure they came from the engine, you should drop the lower oil pan and pull the oil filter and inspect. Determine if they are aluminum or ferrous, and inspect the oil pickup for...

379,473. Alternator went out some time ago, all rubber bushings replaced, not much else.

Your options are used motor, or short block. Toyota doesn't sell long blocks in most cases. There will be a part number, but it is not orderable, anywhere. You can't rebore these blocks either. Take a look with your borescope, you'll probably find vertical scratches in the bores.

Search amazon for "Loncky Custom Steering Wheel Cover for Toyota" Its a leather(ette?) cover that stiches on and is better than the Toyota wheel. My wheel was trashed after 4 years, I installed that cover in 2015 and it is still perfect. It's not a bulky POS like 99.9% of steering wheel covers...

It's really not that bad. The bolts holding the rack to the cross member come in from the top, so you can't remove them without lifting the engine. What you can do instead is buy new bolts, cut the old bolts out, and install the new bolts from the bottom with the nuts on top. Bonus points for...

Might want to wait for a 4th edition. The BLM just permanently closed about 1/3 of the Moab area trails.