Recent content by jkoni426

I've been running the GB reman from rock auto for years and 10k miles (don't drive a lot) with no issues and perfect fuel trims. They also appeared to be oe reman but maybe things have changed since then. Could have just had bad luck and got 1 or 2 bad ones too, heard that's happened before with...

Just a heads up to all, the AZ in the part number means it's Toyota's economy line part (to compete with the aftermarket). When I replaced mine from the dealer recently, it didn't seem to have quite the same quality as the original, although it was pretty close. A couple other part codes...

Like the others said when mine had those symptoms it was a bad fuel injector on cylinder 3 (P0303).

I bought one of those repair kits and it made my door so hard to open that it wound up ripping off the outer rubber coating on the door check.

When I replaced my alternator I used the alternator belt tensioner bolt and washer through the hole to push the bushing out towards the front of the vehicle until it was flush with the mounting point.

FSM calls for spindle oil or gas. I used gas on mine when I swapped them out, no leaks.

Which rebuilt injectors did you get from Rock Auto? I've been running the GB remanufactured injectors from Rock Auto for over 3 years with no issues (knock wood).

I can vouch for the Northeastern Exhaust cali version. Great fit/finish, stainless, stock quietness, no crush bends, and all for about $200. Have had it for about a year and my only issue is the connection at the cat with the original (?) cat flange being trashed, but doubling up on the gaskets...

An injector was my problem when I had those exact symptoms. They will probably test fine when you pull them because they will be cold, unless you maybe warm the truck up first. My theory is something breaks in the circuit when warm, causing the misfire. I had a P0303 I believe and GB...

I went with GB Remanufacturing from Rock Auto. Been good for a year now.

Ok I think I fixed mine and it was stupid easy... apparently the torque on the speed sensor bolt is pretty important. I didn't torque these when I reinstalled them, and decided to go out and torque them to spec of 71-in pounds. The driver side was close but the passenger was fairly loose. After...

Dealing with this right now after an upper ball joint and cv axle replacement. I had to pull the speed sensors so I could remove the knuckle to press the new ball joints in. The driver side speed sensor was pretty rusted into the knuckle. I had to do a lot of twisting and pulling to get it out...

I've had good luck with the duralast gold axles from autozone. I've kept the oems in their boxes in case I ever want to reboot. I almost went the rebooting route this weekend but it's just so much easier to swap out the whole thing instead.

Finally replaced the upper ball joints that I purchased from camelback 5 1/2 years ago! Now the ABS is kicking in at slow speeds when coming to a stop. I'm thinking it's the driver side speed sensor that was pretty much rusted to the hub and required lot of twisting and pulling to remove...

Autozone tests alternators and batteries for free, that's what I would do.