Recent content by Konkordmusk

None yet; my own 4runner is under the knife, but I suppose I could fab the rail up and tack it on just to show it as an option. Thank you for your kind words! These were prototyped out to v18 to get the fitment right, and have 22 bends featured to contour them to the body. Everything is done on...

Jason at opt.offroad is running my quarter panel armor, as well as a few others. Should be around 20 sets floating around, no one seems to want to send updated pics. The idea behind these was to prevent rear glass popping from deformation of the body that the glass is attached to. I've got the...

Refrigerant dye is generally UV sensitive. A black light, and a dark area work wonders.

It sounds like you have code P0125 - Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop. This is a red herring code; you'll see this code when your engine detects that your coolant temperature is normal, but your primary oxygen sensor isn't reaching the proper switch rate that it should be in...

For the rear, none of the crap the foam got on is being re-used, so no worries there. For the front, I figured I'd see how well the gas axe takes it off :flamethrwoer2:

My turn: I will be building the differentials for Matt and the SRQ crew.

3rd gen 4runners didn't come with external transmission coolers. The original transmission cooling system used the bottom tank of the radiator. That appears to be a B&M 70264 cooler.

That'd be me! I'm not on here much anymore though, but just popped on to actually show a friend how you did your rear bumper, then saw this. Good to hear it corrected it!

Hey Rob! Sounds like your igniter needs a look-over. It's on the passenger side fender inside the engine bay. That is what sends the signal to the tachometer, I believe. It has a ground on the inside of the fender; make sure that's healthy.

I've probably done 50+ full rebuilds of Toyota 3rd members and still have yet to use any "specialized" tool. Pry bar to get the seal out, hammer to get it in. I've never had an issue with damaging the splines or threads on a pinion gear, whether I do it with the pinion pressed in already or not...

The oil storage ring you're referring to is what we call a sling ring. It does nothing more than sling oil around as well as keeping it up towards the outer pinion bearing. If only replacing the oil seal, there is no need to remove or replace this ring. I guess it depends on the integrity of...

The torque is whatever is required to achieve a rotating preload of 8-15 INCH pounds. You will need a torque BEAM (not wrench) in order to check this. The true and proper way to replace that oil seal is to remove the third, remove the ring gear and check the current preload, and add an inch...

It is a 30mm. I would caution you against just gunning the nut off and back on. Unless you have a solid spacer, there is instead a crush sleeve which is sensitive to torque. The nut may require 250+ft/lbs of torque to achieve a rotating preload of 15in/lbs or so. You cannot check this with the...

The FSM has been wrong before; I think even you have pointed it out in that some of the torque specs do not make sense. I'm not saying it's wrong in this case, but their way of explaining the re-installation of a two piece propeller shaft is very user friendly, and simple to understand...

It does not matter the orientation of the slip joint splines. What matters is that the u-joints are in the same phase, or orientation. This is the only thing that can cause vibration; the Spicer Dana driveshaft bible states exactly this.